Sailor Charon Posted July 27, 2011 Share Posted July 27, 2011 My one concern about the Farish Castle body is that, if it's like the Jubliee body, it's attached to the footplate. Removing the boiler from the Jubilee to leave the splashers and other bits on the footplate was... not entirely trivial and that was made of plastic. Not sure if the splashers would be made of plastic or metal. But I'm sure they can be removed. BRLines have a couple of Castle bodies listed on their website Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2mm Dabbler Posted July 27, 2011 RMweb Premium Share Posted July 27, 2011 Is it possible to get the correct wheels from the 'n' gauge society?? did anyone take on Mike Bryants work?? The N Gauge Society doesn't make or sell locomotive wheels. Jerry has pointed out the general lack of such items for N gauge. I'm aware of only two ranges, both now extinct. Beaver Models released a range of plastic centered wheels with steel rims in the '70's. Although the moulds apparently still exist their reintroduction is extremely unlikely as sales were poor - a single production run could take many years to sell. Mike Bryant's MBM range passed to George Nutter who operated as Precursor Models. For reasons unknown to me this faded away some years ago. Both ranges had older, coarser wheel standards. As Jerry has stated the lack of such vital components means those so inclined tend to migrate to 2mm Scale. It's a circular argument: no wheels means little scratchuilding of steam locomotives, and mnimal demand means no commercial reason for producing them. Regards Michael Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
KingJohn Posted July 27, 2011 Author Share Posted July 27, 2011 My one concern about the Farish Castle body is that, if it's like the Jubliee body, it's attached to the footplate. Removing the boiler from the Jubilee to leave the splashers and other bits on the footplate was... not entirely trivial and that was made of plastic. Not sure if the splashers would be made of plastic or metal. But I'm sure they can be removed. BRLines have a couple of Castle bodies listed on their website The splashers on my current Castle are plastic, but they appear to be both part of the running plate and the boiler. The Castle splashers are also a little on the large side. However, the King splashers appear to be nearer the mark, which is why I thought of using this running plate to start with, although these are metal, oh well I dont have anything else to do for a while. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Atso Posted July 29, 2011 Share Posted July 29, 2011 The splashers on my current Castle are plastic, but they appear to be both part of the running plate and the boiler. The Castle splashers are also a little on the large side. However, the King splashers appear to be nearer the mark, which is why I thought of using this running plate to start with, although these are metal, oh well I dont have anything else to do for a while. Not wishing to contradict you here but are you sure there are plastic? Most early design Farish locos I own have a plastic smoke box (to allow for various versions) and cast metal body including splashers, footplate and boiler. Looking at various photos on the web I can't see if the splashers are separate fittings or not... How close are the 47xx and 28xx classes in length? If it's close it might be worth contact GEM Models to see if they'll sell you a spare running plate casting and maybe the cab as well? White metal would be much easier to alter and most likely cheaper than buying a spare Farish body. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Karhedron Posted July 29, 2011 Share Posted July 29, 2011 How close are the 47xx and 28xx classes in length? If it's close it might be worth contact GEM Models to see if they'll sell you a spare running plate casting and maybe the cab as well? White metal would be much easier to alter and most likely cheaper than buying a spare Farish body. The wheelbase is quite different. The coupled length of the 2800s was 16'10", that of the 4700s was 20' so the GEM 2800 running plate would be about 15% too short. You could compromise by running it on a shorter wheelbase chassis but you are very quickly getting to the point where your loco would look more 2800 than 4700. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Atso Posted July 29, 2011 Share Posted July 29, 2011 Ok so maybe two 28xx running plates cut and shut together to get the right length? Still needs a chassis though... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Karhedron Posted July 29, 2011 Share Posted July 29, 2011 Ok so maybe two 28xx running plates cut and shut together to get the right length? Still needs a chassis though... The spacing between each of the coupled wheels is different. You would need to slice it in several places and insert a fillet of material in each join. It is not just a matter of the total length but of getting the splashers positioned correctly above each wheel. You could not just cut-n-shut. Easier to build from scratch I would think. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
KingJohn Posted July 29, 2011 Author Share Posted July 29, 2011 Thanks atso, I have not been able to find a drawing for the 28xx on the net, so cannot do a comparison. I am sure someone on here will now how the two compare for length. I have not checked to see if the Castle is plastic or not, I will have to have another look. I compared the weight against the King, with the King being a lot heavier, I may have assumed that the Castle was all plastic. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Atso Posted July 29, 2011 Share Posted July 29, 2011 No drawings but Wiki lists the 28xx as 63ft 2.25inches against 66ft 4.25inchs so 3ft 2inches difference in length, more or less 6mm additional length to make up - should be doable though... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Karhedron Posted July 29, 2011 Share Posted July 29, 2011 No drawings but Wiki lists the 28xx as 63ft 2.25inches against 66ft 4.25inchs so 3ft 2inches difference in length, more or less 6mm additional length to make up - should be doable though... Except for the fact that that 6mm needs to be inserted as 3 2mm sections between the wheel splashers. If you try and do the stretch at a single point the splashers will end up in the wrong position over the wheels. I really think that the GEM plate is going to be harder to modify than making something new from scratch. Even if you manage to insert the extra length in the right place the resulting structure will be very weak because it will be made up of manu small pieces stuck together on the thin edges. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
KingJohn Posted July 30, 2011 Author Share Posted July 30, 2011 Except for the fact that that 6mm needs to be inserted as 3 2mm sections between the wheel splashers. If you try and do the stretch at a single point the splashers will end up in the wrong position over the wheels. I really think that the GEM plate is going to be harder to modify than making something new from scratch. Even if you manage to insert the extra length in the right place the resulting structure will be very weak because it will be made up of manu small pieces stuck together on the thin edges. This point is valid, however, I have examined the GEM 28xx running plate, and as it is white metal, the splashers could be lifted and re-arranged over the new frame. This would mean only making 1 extension to sort out, which would be better done at the cab end of the frame. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
KingJohn Posted July 30, 2011 Author Share Posted July 30, 2011 Atso, on 29 July 2011 - 18:29 , said: No drawings but Wiki lists the 28xx as 63ft 2.25inches against 66ft 4.25inchs so 3ft 2inches difference in length, more or less 6mm additional length to make up - should be doable though... Atso - thanks for the info on the length. However, that is total length including the tender, for the running plate on the 47xx, I have calculated as best as I can, it is 40'5", not including the front buffers. Do you knw what it is on the 28xx?? The chassis could be made in two halves. The rear 2 drivers could be the front 2 drivers fron the Prairie as that is 7'0", with the front pair for the 47 coming from the same source, but adjusting the join in the chassis to bring it down to 6'6". Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
KingJohn Posted August 6, 2011 Author Share Posted August 6, 2011 I have just rec'd one of the new Dapol Halls and on measuring the wheelbase, the rear 2 drivers appear to be almost spot on @ 7'0". Plus, the front 2 are approx 6'6", thereford i think it may be possible to add another driver to the front of the chassis @ 6'6" to complete the 47xx. However, I do not know what the correct length needs to be for the chassis itself, which I will need before looking into building the body to the correct size. Anyone have the measurements for th chassis handy, or do I need a copy of the origianl swindon drawings??? Looking at the tender of the 47xx, it looks the same as the hall. Wheel spacing is the same @ 7'6" with the overall length @ 24'3". I am considering that this tender drive may be the best way to go. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
BernardTPM Posted August 6, 2011 Share Posted August 6, 2011 Anyone have the measurements for th chassis handy, or do I need a copy of the origianl swindon drawings??? Did you see the link in my post no.9? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
KingJohn Posted August 7, 2011 Author Share Posted August 7, 2011 Did you see the link in my post no.9? Yes I did use the link and thank you for that. I printed a copy off so that I could work out the relevant sizes. However, as the drawing is not an exact scale, I cannot work out the measurement from the rear driver to the end of the footplate accurately. I can only get an approximation, of 6'10 1/2". This would give a chassis length from buffer beam to footplate of 39'6 1/2". (81.5mm) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
BernardTPM Posted August 7, 2011 Share Posted August 7, 2011 Fair enough. My apologies. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
KingJohn Posted August 7, 2011 Author Share Posted August 7, 2011 Fair enough. My apologies. No need to appologise, all comments greatfully recieved. After several conversations, mainly with atso's help, I think that a Union Mills tender drive may be the way to go forward. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
KingJohn Posted August 10, 2011 Author Share Posted August 10, 2011 Having looked at the Union Mills tender drive, the largest they do has 6'6" wheel centres. The GWR tender required needs 7'6" centres. Has anyone used this drive and extended it for this purpose and if so, how difficult was it? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Atso Posted August 11, 2011 Share Posted August 11, 2011 Having looked at the Union Mills tender drive, the largest they do has 6'6" wheel centres. The GWR tender required needs 7'6" centres. Has anyone used this drive and extended it for this purpose and if so, how difficult was it? Having looked at the UM drive unit, I can offer the following. The tender drive is driven via a double shaft motor which drives two separate gear chains on each of the out axles. The centre wheels are unpowered which leads to their easy relocation. I have two possible suggestions for modifying the tender. 1.) Cut the chasssis into three parts which separates the three wheel centres reassemble using 'C' brass channel to increase the wheel base by the required 4mm. 2.) Cut the chassis as before but disregard the centre section. Using some thin (10 thou) brass overlays to the correct wheelbase attached to the outer ends to increase the wheelbase. Either method will need the motor moving back by c.2mm and the worm gears moving forward on the shafts to ensure they can still engage the gear chains. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rabs Posted May 15, 2012 Share Posted May 15, 2012 I know that this thread has been dead for a while - but I'm very interested to find out how the OP got on. Did you ever make your 47xx? How was the experience? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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