mikemeg Posted April 11, 2012 Author Share Posted April 11, 2012 And then the second tank side is done in exactly the same way as the first. One trick worth mentioning, when assembling Arthur's kits, is to feather the bottom edge of the tabs, used to locate various components. Often, when the tabs are being dressed off after parting from the etch, they can receive a slight burr; enough to cause a problem with the interference fit. So a few strokes of a suitable needle file, just to remove that burr and to feather the bottom of the tabs greatly improves the ease of fitting. A quick check on the fit of the second side - everything seems ok - and we can move onto the next stage. Cheers Mike Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium ArthurK Posted April 11, 2012 RMweb Premium Share Posted April 11, 2012 MIke quotes ne saying "I can never resist folding up side tank and doing a test fit at this stage." Don't really know what he means; but the first of the side tank assemblies fits beautifully at the trial fit stage! Now to add some weight into those side tanks. Well he had the advantage over me in that I was the first to fold up these tank sides and with a new etch (especially one this size there is always a doubt in your mind until you have done it. Are all the tabs in the right place (they weren't on the upper frmes), are the slots all there? Adding to the last comment they are not there on the floor to locate the bunker front so Mike will have the file off the tabs and do it the hard way. But that is what test builds are all about. ArthurK Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
7mm Mick Posted April 11, 2012 Share Posted April 11, 2012 Thanks for that, Mick. Yes, as you surmise it's to be 68363, which was a Hull Alexandra Dock locomotive in 1950. Interesting that the photo clearly shows (or more particularly doesn't!) the absence of guard irons over the rear cab windows. I shall similarly watch your 7mm model, assuming that you post details on here as you construct it. Cheers Mike I'm not sure if this is the way the picture is exposed but in this view the guard irons are fitted. Or maybe they were removed for some sort of repair? ATB Mick Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium ArthurK Posted April 11, 2012 RMweb Premium Share Posted April 11, 2012 Note the arm 'cushion' on the cab sill. Normally this would be horizontal rather tha angled. They were also acquired(?) by other drivers/firemen. Perhaps this one is a deep saddle. It is also in view on the earlier photo of this loco. ArthurK Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
DougN Posted April 12, 2012 Share Posted April 12, 2012 Mick, who dinged the footplate.... must have droped the model on the way to take a photo on the layout. Look above the photo between the buffers Does amaze me in that looking at the real thing the dings, scrapes, ripples in the tanks/ tender sides. Do it on the model and it looks terrible. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikemeg Posted April 13, 2012 Author Share Posted April 13, 2012 One of the great things about this site - at least for me - is picking up all of those hints and tips from 'the masters'. Hints and tips not just on how to do it, but how to approach and organise to do it. Now there's one guy on here, in this very section, who is an absolute inspiration to me. I won't embarass him and name him but he rejoices under a username which has syncopated, musical connutations. Anyway, I was reading this guys thread - as I do most days; this a month or two ago and he mentioned that the last thing he did before finishing for the day, was to sort out and set out the parts to be assembled the following day. On reading this I thought "I'll have some of that; if it works for ------, then that's good enough for me." And since then I've done the same. What this does is effectively set a daily target for achievement. I normally set out what I know I can assemble and then try and do just a little bit more. It's pointless knowingly setting out more parts than can be assembled and one would simply get p----d off with the whole approach. Oh s--t, he's preaching again! Not so; but I'm in my sixties and who knows how long I have left, so I may as well make best use of that time by whatever means possible. The only other convention I adopt is my 45 cm x 30 cm rubber cutting mat (on which I do almost everything) must be left clear at the end of each day. Nothing is allowed to 'rest' or 'live' on the cutting board, it must be cleared each day. Nothing, that is, except my coffee cup (witness the stain on the photo) and/or wine glass; they are the only exceptions. This stems from years of working in organisations which had 'clear desk' policies. But, tell you what, it works! So this is the minimum which I will achieve today. Cheers Mike Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikemeg Posted April 13, 2012 Author Share Posted April 13, 2012 MIke quotes ne saying "I can never resist folding up side tank and doing a test fit at this stage." Don't really know what he means; but the first of the side tank assemblies fits beautifully at the trial fit stage! Now to add some weight into those side tanks. Well he had the advantage over me in that I was the first to fold up these tank sides and with a new etch (especially one this size there is always a doubt in your mind until you have done it. Are all the tabs in the right place (they weren't on the upper frmes), are the slots all there? Adding to the last comment they are not there on the floor to locate the bunker front so Mike will have the file off the tabs and do it the hard way. But that is what test builds are all about. ArthurK Tell you what, though, as a test build there haven't been very many problems. Amazing how two sets of slots around .020" wide and over 7" apart, on two different components, line up absolutely exactly - the lamp iron slots in the two parts of the footplate and the tabs and slots on the tank and bunker sides, as examples. Crazy thing is that I'm enjoying the test build of the A6, with the 'challenges', just as much - perhaps even more - than the tried and tested etches and castings of the J73. And I couldn't resist folding up the tank side, on the A6, and just trying it for fit, either! Cheers Mike Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikemeg Posted April 13, 2012 Author Share Posted April 13, 2012 On Arthur's kits, many of the loco platework components are actually executed in two layers; a backing thicker layer and a front, half etched layer which contains the embossed detail. Often, both corresponding layers have holes etched in them for handrails, pipes, etc. Where such holes exist, they can actually be used to locate and solder the two layers together. I normally do this on a block of wood and hold the component off the wood, this to avoid the resin in the wood leeching onto the brass under heat, with old bits of cocktail stick. The photo shows how this is set up. With the cab front assembled, it can now be fitted into the loco body and soldered in. Cheers Mike Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
7mm Mick Posted April 13, 2012 Share Posted April 13, 2012 Mick, who dinged the footplate.... must have droped the model on the way to take a photo on the layout. Look above the photo between the buffers Does amaze me in that looking at the real thing the dings, scrapes, ripples in the tanks/ tender sides. Do it on the model and it looks terrible. I agree Doug, to a certain extent I try and model as close to the real thing as possible but as you say when it comes to modelling damage like this it looks terrible. I have another picture of this loco with a badly bent rear buffer beam from a rough shunt which if modelled would look terrible, also I have a picture of a classmate 68360 with a huge dent in it's dome again, very hard to model convincingly. The reality is though that these workhorses continued in everyday traffic with this damge for some time. ATB Mick Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikemeg Posted April 13, 2012 Author Share Posted April 13, 2012 The final part of the cab assembly is the rear cab/bunker front plate. This was stepped and also contains the coal gate and has the overhead locker attached. So, rather than try and assemble each of these with this plate fitted to the body, perhaps best to do this as a sub-assembly and then fit the whole sub-assembly into the body. All of Arthur's kits, which I have so far built, can benefit from this sub-assembly approach and the instructions do reflect this. Surprisingly, it is not yet 10.00 am and I have almost done the parts which I assembled for today. So I will certainly exceed today's target! Cheers Mike Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikemeg Posted April 13, 2012 Author Share Posted April 13, 2012 So, having assembled the cab rear and the internal sandboxes, time for yet another trial fit. Everything seems ok so the soldering iron can now be wielded on this assembly. Too early, methinks, for the Shiraz so perhaps now a cup of coffee. Arthur, so far so good though there are slots in the front of the bunker, for the internal sandboxes, but those sandboxes don't have tabs on. Easy enough to deal with, though. For a first set of etches the fit on this is pretty good; no it's very good. Makes the assembly a real joy! Cheers Mike Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikemeg Posted April 13, 2012 Author Share Posted April 13, 2012 One other tip - and here I don't want to offend anyone - is the photography of models. I know different folk do this differently but, for the sake of a few seconds, I think it is always worth 'composing' the photograph. By this I mean photographing them against a datum point - I often use this green, squared cutting board - and lining up the subject against the linear markings on the board. You might notice that I've wiped off the coffee stain! Also worth blanking out the background with a 'neutral' colour; a piece of cardboard serves well for this. Well, it works for me! Cheers Mike Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikemeg Posted April 13, 2012 Author Share Posted April 13, 2012 The rear of the bunker has now had the flare formed - rolled around the 1/8" diameter tang of a needle file - and the bunker rear then assembled, after soldering in an 8BA nut to the footplate, for chassis fixing. On this initial version of the kit, the sides of the coal rails are integral with the tank side/cab/bunker side etching, whilst the rear of the coal rail is a separate piece. I believe that the revised version will have a totally separate piece for the coal rails, which will be folded up and soldered as per the J73. A quick clean up in boiling, soapy water and then a photo to record where we are. Today's target is therefore achieved and I've still got a couple of hours to do some detailing. Second photo is the two together - A6 and J73 - and represents about eight days work, with Easter spent doing other things. Now for the boilers and smokeboxes on both models; this once I acquire a boiler roller. Anyone know the web site name or phone number of GW Models, who sell these tools? Perhaps now, as the sun is over the yardarm (somewhere, if not here) a glass of Shiraz might be in order. Cheers Mike Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwealleans Posted April 13, 2012 Share Posted April 13, 2012 Mike, Bookmark http://www.clag.org.uk/russ/supplier.html. It will tell you how to find everyone you could ever want to order from. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kenton Posted April 13, 2012 Share Posted April 13, 2012 Anyone know the web site name or phone number of GW Models, who sell these tools? G W Models is not on the web (the guy who runs it is a bit of a character, and can be found at most of the good expos, particularly in the south) contact details are: 11 Crosham Close, Lancing, BN15 9LE (01903) 767231 - I'm sure he can give you up to date prices. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikemeg Posted April 13, 2012 Author Share Posted April 13, 2012 G W Models is not on the web (the guy who runs it is a bit of a character, and can be found at most of the good expos, particularly in the south) contact details are: 11 Crosham Close, Lancing, BN15 9LE (01903) 767231 - I'm sure he can give you up to date prices. Thanks for that, Jwealleans and Kenton. Yet another advantage of being part of this site - ask and it shall be told! Cheers Mike Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium ArthurK Posted April 13, 2012 RMweb Premium Share Posted April 13, 2012 Arthur, so far so good though there are slots in the front of the bunker, for the internal sandboxes, but those sandboxes don't have tabs on. Easy enough to deal with, though. Cheers Mike They do now. I don't know how I managed to loose them!!!!!!! ArthurK Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikemeg Posted April 13, 2012 Author Share Posted April 13, 2012 G W Models is not on the web (the guy who runs it is a bit of a character, and can be found at most of the good expos, particularly in the south) contact details are: 11 Crosham Close, Lancing, BN15 9LE (01903) 767231 - I'm sure he can give you up to date prices. Contact made, cheque written (no credit cards here), order placed. Once again, many thanks for the info. Cheers Mike Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kenton Posted April 13, 2012 Share Posted April 13, 2012 no credit cards here Unfortunately quite a common problem among 7mm suppliers as well - it always amazes me at the large scale trade shows how useless plastic is. But then I prefer working in metal too ... but all those coins are heavy and seem to fall through my pockets. GW's range of tools is quite small and I don't think they have changed much in 2030 years. Well engineered and solid (so you save lots on postage when buying at shows). Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
7mm Mick Posted April 13, 2012 Share Posted April 13, 2012 I've just received a rivet tool and rollers from GW, yes it's still letter writing and cheques but I had both through within a couple of days. I bet you'll be boiler rolling by the middle of next week. Mike I wondered if possible if you could post some pictures of the J73 cab interior to help with my build. I have the drawings but a picture paints a thousand words and all that, ATB Mick Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
DougN Posted April 13, 2012 Share Posted April 13, 2012 Have to agree with you Mick, getting tools from people who don't take plastic is even harder from this side of the earth! (Australia) I was about to buy the rolling set for boliers at the Scalefourum last year but choose not to. I regret not buying it now or the Bradwell J27 on the bring and buy! I think that a Riveter, boiler rolling set and a hold and fold are all on my list of items to get. I have the GW quartering jig from an estate here in Melbourne which has been a boon particularly with the Q6... quartering an 8 coupled is always a challange! Reading through these threads excites me to build some more NER loco's....started one last weekend! a New G5... Just wish I could be as clean and tidy modelling as you Mike... I can usually not find my Green cutting mats! Then again I need to finish the Q6 which is in residence and 3 NER coaches... which just need a little finishing off! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikemeg Posted April 24, 2012 Author Share Posted April 24, 2012 The mini roller duly arrived from GW Models and it really is a very robust piece of equipment - you know it's quite heavy when the postman hands the parcel to you, with two hands. So the first test of this (or at least my ability to use it properly) was the J73 boiler. After a few tentative 'rolls' I managed to get the boiler rolled to the correct diameter and circular. The circular boiler former was then soldered into the front of the boiler, approximately 2 mm from the front edge; this after soldering an 8BA nut onto the back of the boiler former. The smokeboxes for the J73 and the A6 were then assembled, as per Arthur's instructions, again with an 8 BA nut soldered into the bottom of each smokebox for chassis fixing purposes. Assembling these smokeboxes does need some care to avoid distorting the two smokebox formers and I just lightly glued the smokebox spacers into one of the formers, just to hold them in place, prior to soldering up the smokebox. Both smoke boxes did go together very well and are square and remarkably strong. There are a number of details which need to be added to the J73, prior to fixing the boiler, not least the handrail stanchions at the tops of the tanks. Next job on the J73 will be the sandbox operating rods and then some detailing of the boiler, again prior to soldering the boiler to the cab front. Cheers Mike Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
iak Posted April 24, 2012 Share Posted April 24, 2012 Dare one ask how much the roller cost Mike? I might try and blag one out of the missus.............. Mind they look very effective Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikemeg Posted April 24, 2012 Author Share Posted April 24, 2012 Dare one ask how much the roller cost Mike? I might try and blag one out of the missus.............. Mind they look very effective Happy to tell you, Iain. The mini roller, suitable for rolling boilers up to 6" long (and that's a scale 38feet) costs £52.50 with post and packing being another £5. Seems a lot for the post and packing but, this piece of kit is heavy and is absolutely superbly packed. Just tell your missus that this is a 'high tech rolling pin'; might win her round. Mind you if you do tell her that you might find yourself doing the baking! This piece of kit is so well engineered that it should last a lifetime (and some) so if you're going to be building any etched kits, then it's a great boon to their building. Regards Mike Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kenton Posted April 24, 2012 Share Posted April 24, 2012 Also available in longer sizes more 7mm friendly (at extra cost and weight). Just tell your missus that this is a 'high tech rolling pin'; might win her round. Mind you if you do tell her that you might find yourself doing the baking! I think I would prefer to be hit on the head with the wooden version Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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