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Foam card Building


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Slight confession, Doug. After the Farnham show and seeing Corris 1930 I did have a go with plaster. My attempts are in the bin and I'm just starting my 2nd foam building. Nothing to compare with the brewery and manor, though. Wow, those were impressive! Thanks for starting the topic.

Andy

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  • 8 months later...

I was wondering about peeling the paper off.... Seems I have some that refuses to come off without leaving the underlying foam looking like an artillery range.

 

Tom

 

Hi,

 

I know that this is a bit late but I've only just come across this thread.  I have tried peeling foamboard and found that one side peeled cleanly and evenly but when I tried the second side it was a real pig and I gave up trying.  So it may be worth trying both sides, if one doesn't peel easily, the other might.

 

Terry

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  • 5 months later...

Thanks for sharing your ideas.

 

SafePrint seems the best idea, I am certainly going to give this a try.

 

It seems good for tunnel portals and side walling, especially when using flexi track and the opening to the bridge/tunnel may not be a standard width.

 

I think I will also try it for retaining walls and even narrow depth warehouses against a backscene.

 

I have used no nails glue to stick mdf bridge bases over a narrow winding river under my track and it was solid so I guess will be good with safeprint sheets also. Something else to try in the new year.

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  • 2 weeks later...

There are some stunning models here.

 

Reading this thread from the start I noticed recommendations for craft board, polystyrene between two pieces of thick paper where one side of the paper was torn off, sometimes with difficulty. The other option some mentioned was SafePrint foam sheets.

 

I have tried both this last few days, I like others, found the craft board hard to strip one side but the SafePrint was so easy.to use. For retaining walls I am sticking with no nails glue it sets solid and gives the board a good solid fix. For areas which are not against an embankment I have used 250-300g card behind and it works very well. Cutting the card first ensures the SafePrint foam board is cut accurately every time.

 

Thanks everyone for your recommendations and comments, I hope mine now help others also.

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  • 1 month later...

Chubber!

 

Just by chance I stumbled upon this foam technique, and I think that seeing as its not technically a card based topic you could post it in the structures section where I reside - many of the guys/girls? who don't venture out of there much will be pleased to see it and would benefit from it.

 

Some lovely representations of stone and block work using foam!

 

Pete

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  • 8 months later...

I too have just stumbled across this bit of the board. I've obviously seen foam board being used in architectural models for some time, but I never thought to engrave it in the way that the guys have been doing here.

 

Some marvellous examples!

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  • 4 months later...

Just to add my - tuppence in

There is another product - available on eBay called foamex. It's available in various thicknesses, although I prefer 2mm for stone walls as it represents the window recess when placed behind, quite well

 

It can be directly scribed onto and embossed with great results:

 

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post-15693-0-85320000-1429024602.jpg

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  • 2 years later...

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