trustytrev Posted May 4, 2012 Share Posted May 4, 2012 Hello, I purchased the crossing and switch filing jig some time ago.Unfortunately I have not been able to make sense of the instructions in the Society manual.Is there anyone whom could provide an illustrated blow by blow account of how to use these jigs correctly please.The insructions as they stand are totally confusing to me and I have yet to find someone using them as described in the official manual. I would appreciate such guidance and believe others would too. Thanks. trustytrev. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Oldddudders Posted May 4, 2012 RMweb Gold Share Posted May 4, 2012 I think Mr Templot (Martin Wynne) suggested that pics of the jigs might help with the clarification of the best technique for their use. Are you about to add those? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
trustytrev Posted May 4, 2012 Author Share Posted May 4, 2012 I think Mr Templot (Martin Wynne) suggested that pics of the jigs might help with the clarification of the best technique for their use. Are you about to add those? Hello, Yes I am just looking for the images I have seen previously trustytrev. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold martin_wynne Posted May 4, 2012 RMweb Gold Share Posted May 4, 2012 Are your jigs the same as these? I suspect the reason for confusion is than not everyone has the same jigs when explaining how they use them. © Gordon S Martin. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
trustytrev Posted May 4, 2012 Author Share Posted May 4, 2012 Are your jigs the same as these? I suspect the reason for confusion is than not everyone has the same jigs when explaining how they use them. Martin. Hello Martin, You managed to find me. In answer to your question regarding the crossing filing jig yes. I think after looking at the link herehttp://www.grindham.co.uk/evolve_main.cfm?stage_id=3 I now understand how to use the switch filing jig. The crossing jig still remains a mystery though.I am probably just being thick trustytrev. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold martin_wynne Posted May 4, 2012 RMweb Gold Share Posted May 4, 2012 My experience is that you don't need such jigs and it is preferable to complete the filing/sanding of the rails after assembly of them into a vee. But of course you can't do that if you use the jigs. By bending and assembling the rails on a paper template you can have any crossing angle of your choice -- you are not restricted to a few fixed angles. Initial assembly of the rails does not need to be especially precise or neat because any slight mismatch or stray solder is removed in the final filing/sanding. Clamping them down to a paper template on bit of wood, using a screw and a "penny" washer*, is all you need. The jigs are quite expensive, so the money saved in not needing them goes a long way towards the cost of a small belt or disc sander tool: which has many other uses around the layout and workshop. I know that the jigs are very popular and many folks use them, so I don't want to suggest that you shouldn't do so if you prefer. It's just that I prefer the alternative methods. If you are a newcomer to turnout construction you will find a significant variety in the methods used and proposed by different builders! *A "penny" washer is a large washer with a small hole. Available for fixing/repair of canvas furniture and similar jobs. Also available as backing washers for pop rivets. It's just as easy to make your own clamp by drilling an old coin. regards, Martin. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold martin_wynne Posted May 4, 2012 RMweb Gold Share Posted May 4, 2012 Sorry, that got posted before I finished editing it. The basic procedure for the filing jigs is: 1. File the rail end at an angle. 2. Bend the filed end so that the filed surface is straight again. 3. Turn the rail over in the jig and file it again, so that you end up with solid metal at the tip, instead of an undercut at the web. 4. Repeat for the other rail, starting with the rail the other way up, so that you end up with a handed pair. 5. Use the jig to solder them together at the required angle. There are a lot of diagrams about all this scattered about on the Templot Club forum. I will get them copied here and a more coherent explanation written. regards, Martin. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold martin_wynne Posted May 5, 2012 RMweb Gold Share Posted May 5, 2012 1. This is a cross-section of bullhead rail. Contrary to what might seem likely, the top head section is deeper than the foot section, to allow for rail wear on the prototype. When working with model rail it is important to be always aware of which edge is the head, because the rail won't fit in the chairs if it's upside-down.To help with the following diagrams I have coloured the diagram like this, but of course in reality it is the same colour all through:2. Begin by cutting a suitable length of rail and clamping it in the jig, normal way up, like this,3. and file it flush to the face of the jig:4. Remove the rail from the jig and you will observe that the filed face looks like this. Note that it is very fragile at the tip because there is no solid metal below the tip, and it is unsuitable for use as it stands:5. So the next stage is to bend it like this, so that the filed face aligns with the original rail,6. like this:7. Now turn the rail over, so that the foot is on top:8. and replace it in the jig. Align the end carefully, like this:9. and file it flush again:10. When removed you now have an angled end with solid metal at the tip, ready for use:11. The filed face looks like this:12. Now start again and repeat for the second rail, but in this case insert it in the jig upside down initially.13. After which you will have a handed pair of point and splice rails from which to assemble your crossing vee.More next time.regards.Martin. disc sander , filing jig , solid tip , vee , blunt nose , after assembly , bullhead Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brossard Posted May 5, 2012 Share Posted May 5, 2012 I've actually got these jigs and used them for a few points. They do work well, especially for filing the switch blade where you need to leave the bottom web. They don't relieve you of the final filing. The blade lead in needs particular care. I also have a crossing jig but have yet to try it. The instructions are in the EMGS manual. It looks like this: It is handy (or so I believe) for constructing the crossing (vee and wingrails) off the point, when using the plastic (or timber) construction method. John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
srperson Posted December 20, 2013 Share Posted December 20, 2013 Being new to turnout construction, any advice on filing switch blades either with or without a jig? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grovenor Posted December 20, 2013 Share Posted December 20, 2013 You may find these useful, http://www.scalefour.org/history/mrc08.html http://www.norgrove.me.uk/points.html If not using ply and rivet just skip those bits and concentrate on the sections covering the rails. Regards Keith Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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