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Heath Robinson Uncoupling System for 00.


Sasquatch

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In between coats of varnish drying today I gave thought to blogging about this Heath Robinson style uncoupling system I have developed.

 

For added interest on Dunster which has limited operating movements I set about making everything work, the signals including two ground dolls, the crossing gates and the possibility of auto uncoupling in the sidings and on the main line. Having employed Hornby uncoupling ramps in the past I knew of their ability to uncouple things when not required. That apart I needed something less conspicuous.

Rising plates was the answer, and operated with Ratio levers like the signals.

 

Firstly a master was hashed up from cut sleepers and cork underlay to represent the permanent way between the rails and this had a box built around it out of which a silicone rubber mould was made. Now I can cast as many uncoupling plates from two part liquid plastic as I need. The master has been retained in case the R.V. rubber mould ever wears out. Although I think a new master with more detail might suit.

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The system required springing as the weight of the castings alone was not enough to return the plates by gravity. Here comes another entry in my notes for a book I have planned “A Thousand & One Reasons To Carry Zip Ties in Your Pocket”. (I think that’s Cable ties in English English). Half a length of zip tie has just the right amount of tension in it for this purpose.

The design is very simple utilising only a small ply triangle, block of wood, track pins and stuff from general household trash.

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The plastic tubing comes from cotton buds and I used square type nails from my nailer but any stiff straight wire will do.The last piece of the puzzel is the single connector cut from an electric connector strip which is used as an adjuster.

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A small piece of MDF is used as a jig to gauge the size of the required hole in the track and for drilling the two holes in the base board consistantly.

Sleepers and underlay is cut with a Stanly knife and 1/4" chisel.

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Two plastic tubes are used one for the actuating wire and the other as a guide.

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Things are lined up dry and marked with a pencil then when satisfied hot glued in place.

The Ratio point opperating system makes for a perfect and economic means for opperating.

 

Here are the results.

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I have cpied and pasted Stu's drawing mentioned below.

Thanks for taking the time Stubby!

 

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Sent Today, 05:32

 

Hi,

 

This is what I meant...

 

Stu

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8 Comments


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  • RMweb Premium

I found, buried away in a MRC (or was it a RM?) a system to make the older style tension lock coupling delayed action. It was very simple, a bit of filing and a hole with a ring through it. It allowed you to push back and leave a wagon in a siding at will.

I've scanned it and if you would like a copy PM me!

 

BTW a very clever way to disguise the ramp, and to operate it!

 

 

Andy G

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  • RMweb Gold

You could replace all of the actuator equipement with a simple U shaped nail placed near one of the two locating pins, passing the cord through the nail then down to the bottom of the pin. Will PM the drawing as I can't add one here.

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Tried a few different ways before settling on the actuator which allows for springing as the plates don't always fall back down! I used wieghts on the nails but didn't like the dangling stuff. Because the plates sit between the cut sleepers they need chamfering on all 4 sides and can still stick. Everthing is a push fit into tight holes which allows for easy adjustment.

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Having already installed this on Dunster with great success I`m going to have a go on Goathland which might be a bit of a challenge due to Goathland being open frame constuction and all.

 Then there's Avon Park my shelf layout which is under constrution also! (Project scrapped)

Shaun. 

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  • RMweb Gold

Another idea mentioned to me was to use a square brass tube with a square brass inner  - this means you need only one tube for the lifting plate and it won't turn.

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