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Back then to two C13s


Dave at Honley Tank

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Back then to two C13s

 

Sorry folks, the original version of this page lacked logical layout. I have now edited it and I hope it is a more sensible read.

 

Since showing you the mainframes I’ve been playing with the lathes and produced some all-metal driving wheels and also some trailing wheels.

 

C13s were actually 4-4-2 tank engines but my two chassis will actually be 4-6-0s, but only the front two of the “6” will be coupled and the rear axle will be free. Perhaps that’s still 4-4-2, I’m not sure, but the rear pair of wheels will be carried in the mainframes rather than being part of a pony truck.

 

Those members of Manchester MRS who became wheelwrights under the guidance of Sid Stubbs are now few and far between and as one of the survivors much stock has come my way as the estates of members who have past away have been cleared. Among these gifts are quite a large number of brass wheel blanks.

I think the castings I used for the C13s were originally part of Ross Pochin’s stocks, left in his will to the Cumbrian Railway Society. As they could not see a sensible use for them within their Society, Mike Peascod gave as his opinion that I could put them to good use and they were gifted to me. As a lifetime student of the Cumbrian Railway I’m not sure that Ross would approve of their use on Great Central locos!

 

They have now been machined to Manchester profile which, with correct relevant back-back, is good for any of the 4mm gauges.

 

The HighLevel gearboxes have both been assembled and the following pictures show that process:-

 

Here are two pics of the same subject but a different posing. One clearly shows the gears and the quartering marks on the wheel tyres. So too does the second, but here we can see where the motor will go.

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The next two two pics show the various parts used for the driven axle. The axle has a double split to ensure that the gearbox itself is never electrically energised; in picture number 3, one wheel is on the axle and has been trued to run square. It is just possible to make out a fine black line on top of the wheel’s coned section; this is to aid quartering later. The correct axlebox is in its position on the axle as is one of the insulated washer that sits between axlebox and gearbox frame. Its opposite partner lies aback the second wheel with the final drive gear to its left and the second axlebox above all.

 

Colour coding abounds in this picture: light green on the balance weight of the mounted wheel, dark green on the rear of its partner. You may just make out a touch of orange against the light green; orange indicating that this is for 7439, gold denoting 7402. The bright red on the box indicates the right hand side of the loco, and the dark green on the axlebox (bearing) ensures that it will end up in the dark green hornblock.

 

If there is a weakness in the HighLevel gearbox design then it is the problem of ensuring that the idler gear’s fixed shaft stays fixed! I’ve had a couple come loose in the past, resulting in a collapsed gearbox and a need for a ‘Heavy’. On these two I’m relying on a good blob of 24 hour Araldite stopping this shaft falling from the frames (Sorry Mr Gibbon). The blob can be seen in this 3rd. picture

 

The last picture is really the same but in a different pose and camera flash has caused colour destortion.

 

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Next jobs are first to add the wheel sets to the chassis, fit the crank pins and coupling rods and tweak for free running. The final drive gear will be left free on the axle for this process but will be Loctited when I’m happy. Then the gearbox wheel set will be removed, the motor added, and the gearbox run-in – about half an hour in each direction at high speed then at low.

 

C13 progress will now slow because I'm off to a Manchester MRS mutual improvement course to learn how to produce drawings for etching. Will my edification ever stop?

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Horsetan please have a look at:-

http://www.mmrs.org.uk/technical/wheels.htm.

 

The answer to your question is "Yes" but how to organise it beyond MMRS members who can get to MMRS' HQ in Sale Cheshire, I'm not sure.

I'm no Sid Stubs and I doubt if I could make a wheel tyre form tool for you as he did for me. Nor do I know where you could get one.

If your lathe skills allow you to understand the content of that article and if your lathe is no smaller than say a Myford ML7 then I think there is sufficient ifo. in the article for you to make a start on self-teaching. 

For me, the form tool is what allows me to churn out wheels (but don't inspect them with magnification!).

I will always be happy to answer questions over this medium but who ever I was to help would some how need to obtain a suitable form tool. That article tells you how to make one but you need some pretty high skill levels in both lathe use and heat treatment.

I hope that helps. Send me a PM if you wish to go private.

Good luck with it,

Dave

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Dave,

 

Re the slipping gears; which I too have suffered.

 

I now only use the Highlevel gearboxes that are "+" - ie they have the additional final section that is intended to allow them to fold under themselves etc.  The final gear on these are secured with a grub screw and therefore they do not suffer from this problem and/or the axle can be removed.

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Dave,

 

Re the slipping gears; which I too have suffered.

 

I now only use the Highlevel gearboxes that are "+" - ie they have the additional final section that is intended to allow them to fold under themselves etc.  The final gear on these are secured with a grub screw and therefore they do not suffer from this problem and/or the axle can be removed.

Do I call you Portchullin or tatty? (Sorry!)

Hi,

I think perhaps we are at cross-purposes.

The trouble I've had is ensuring that the fixed shaft, (on which the plastic double gear that connects the worm to the final drive gear rides freely), remains fixed. On more than one occasion this shaft has broken free of its Loctite 'wedge' in the hole on one side frame, moved sideways and left the gear box's other side frame, thus loosing any drive between motor shaft and driven axle. Writing this just now I don't have access to my records but I'm fairly sure that this type of fixed shaft  appears in all of Chris' range. The word "wedge" above may cause confusion, but Loctite 601(?? I think) is not an adhesive but works like a wedge, the liquid expanding and solidifying on contact with air or metal, (can't remember which!)

To overcome the problem I now  solder a small brass shim rectangle to both side frames, over the holes carrying this shaft, thus stopping any sideways movement of the shaft if the Loctite fails to do its job. There is no problem should the shaft come totally free and able to rotate other than possible wear of these holes over many hours; its unlikely to do so really.

For these two gearboxes I was lazy; I had some slowly setting araldite left from a previous job and blobbed this over the holes; in this case not as an adhesive but, when set, a bit of plastic rather than a bit of shim brass.

Many thanks for your input & interest,

Dave

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