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Oooops, I did it again...


-missy-

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Hello :)

 

Recently I have been building a couple of chassis for my two PECO collet bodies which have been hiding in my cupboard for a while now. As the 22xx engines were very common on the DNSR it seemed sensible to have at least a couple of them on Highclere. I started by drawing up a chassis in Autocad and producing a chassis from 0.5mm thick PCB to suit. The aim of the chassis was to go 'back to basics' and produce a couple of no frills chassis.

 

blogentry-2065-0-65214500-1390511174.jpg

 

This where the problems started. I have now found a little issue already...

 

blogentry-2065-0-40049100-1390511174.jpg

 

As you can see, the chassis wheelbase does not fit the PECO body and the wheels clearly do not line up with the splashers on the body. I was slightly aware of this when I checked the design with a paper cutout of the proposed chassis but at the time I didnt think it would be too much of an issue.The reasoning behind it is I designed the chassis to be scale and clearly the body isnt, after subsequent checking I found the body to be around 2mm longer over scale which roughly ties in with the error I have.

 

The question is do I rebuild the chassis to suit the body or do I cut the body to suit the chassis? From what I can see it wont be too difficult to cut the body as it looks like I will have to only cut the footplate.

 

What do you think?

 

Missy.

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Wouldn't the Peco body be to 1:148 scale, rather than 1:152? I know 0.06mm per foot doesn't sound much but around 2mm sounds about the right difference given a 64' Mk.1 is 4mm longer in British N compared to 2mm scale.

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  • RMweb Gold

Are the splashers too far out to accomodate the wider wheels. If so and you were thinking of moving them in a bit you may as well cut the chassis. It might be worth checking if the splashers are correct to the body. The other thing is what coupling rods do you plan to use. I am not that familiar with the 22xx but I suspect it is a standard GWR size.

Don

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  • RMweb Gold

I'm not sure if it's the angle of view but it looks as if the difference in mispositioning is different for the middle and leading wheels - which presumably would mean two cuts.  If you only have to cut the footplate I don't think that would be a big problem for you (especially you ;) ) but if it results in the smokebox finishing up in the wrong place you will also have to cut the body and that could present a problem if it involves the boiler as the taper is more or less constant.

 

So before cutting anything I would think it essential to check the position of the top feed and smokebox against the new chassis.

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  • RMweb Gold

I suspect, as Bernard has suggested that your chassis is 2mm, your body is N. I would adjust the chassis to suit the body. The main problem with chopping up the body is that it will always be weak around the joints. 

 

As an aside, I am very interested in your chassis building method using 0.5mm PCB, I'd be interested in more details on that.

 

Jerry 

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It certainly highlights to me how much space we N gauge lads have compared to the 2mm fraternity, I think with my sausage fingers I may keep to the coarser scale.

 

I agree though more updates on the chassis building would be fantastic keep up the excellent work

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  • RMweb Premium

Although it might be optical illusion I also think the axle centres errors are proportional to the splasher spacings. Personally I wouldn't want to try cutting/shutting the footplate to suit. Cuts/joints like this always seem to show, no matter what you do to try and hide them.

 

If you use double thickness coupling rod etches then you can fairly easily cut/shut these to match the axle centres, especially if you start off with longer than needed dimensions.

 

Izzy

 

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It looks to me that there are at least two ways to go on this:

 

1. Try making an alternative set of PCB frames, but this time using 1:148 dimensions for the wheelbase and coupling rods; or

 

2. Embark on a major AutoCAD exercise by drawing artwork for a completely new 2251 body, but in 1:152 to fit the PCB chassis you have already built. That may mean you end up drawing a new tender as well.....

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  • RMweb Gold

Hi Julia. 

 

I think if it were me I'd modify the chassis to fit the body. For the sake of a couple of mm, it seems to be creating a lot of extra work in modifying the body moulding. 

 

I guess this is one drawback to adapting RTR N gauge models for 2mm finescale!

 

Tom. 

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  • RMweb Premium

I'm with the majority, Julia, and would suggest a re-draw of the chassis. Peco have done a fairly good job with the splashers. The width over them is 12.8mm compared to the Farish Pannier and Jinty of a massive 15.8mm! I replaced the splashers on my Jinty and got the width down to 12.7mm and this looks very acceptable with 2FS wheels. My pannier which, sadly, I didn't reconstruct has always looked faintly ridiculous with the wheels so totally out of synch with the splashers. The Peco 2251 body is an excellent production and, for myself, I would be reluctant to do anything too drastic too it.

 

David

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Another vote for redoing the chassis from me, I'm afraid.  Although a pain, it's definitely the easiest option.

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I'm with the rework the chassis brigade too. Are they 10mm wheels? I recall carving bits of the body away to fit it low enough for the association conversion chassis and the wheels were one of the main reasons. I'm sure I went for 10.5mm wheels though. I don't recall why - it just made things harder for me!

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Thanks for the replies guys, most appreciated.

 

It looks like I will have to rebuild the chassis then! This does present a problem though that the only coupling rods available are the ones on the CH chassis kit and I didnt want to buy one (or two) of those! I dont really fancy making any or chopping any up so it means this little project will be shelved for the immediate future.

 

Are they 10mm wheels?

 

They are 10.5mm wheels but I must admit I havent really come across any clearance issues so far (apart from the obvious), mine seemed to fit the splashers plus the chassis height was ok.

 

M.

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Cannot see any insulation gaps in the pcb spacers, unusual for you.

Suggest it is easier to cut these in with a scrawcer before soldering in place.

 

A

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Hello A.

 

The sideframes are double sided PCB therefore I can use solid Brass for the frame spacers. The only bits that are live are the outside faces of the PCB.

 

M :)

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Hi Julia while it would be easier to mod the chassis   knowing you  , you would not be happy    so  go for  the body mod

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