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Road and Pavement


Job's Modelling

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I wanted to start with the arches, but then I noticed that this was not the right starting point. I had to start first with the road and the surface. The reason of this is mentioned somewhere below in this blog.

 

The asphalt road from Scalescenes is printed on Hahnemühle watercolour paper 150 g/m2 rough. I like the deep colour of the asphalt that I got this way. I always put the printer output on best quality and select the right type of paper. This will depend of what type of printer you are using.

I also placed a drain in the asphalt road as I designed it. The drain is also from Scalescenes. To get the drain on the right place I draw coloured pencil line on the edge of the pavement.

The asphalt road is sealed with transparent matt gesso from Tri Art. I applied it with a soft brush.

I did also some test with the gesso. It is possible to apply pastel an colour pencil beneath and on top of the gesso.

So I gave the drain and the edge to the pavement some additional weathering with some pigment powders. I applied them carefully with a cotton bud.

 

blogentry-11675-0-29245500-1401538548_thumb.jpg

 

The kerbs are printed on Lana Dessin paper.

Because I wanted to use the Scalescenes kits, the kerbs are this time are also from the one of his kits.

This meant the kerbs are 0,5 cm wide at the surface of the pavement. I decided to glue them separately. To give the kerbs a more granite appearance I used an embossing pen and some weathering with a pastel pencil.

I also glued the pavement stones separately on the underground. I coloured the edges between the separate pavement stones with a Derwel colour pencil. I also coloured every edge of a pavement stone with a dark brown pastel pencil.

I applied some additional detail using one of mine embossing pens.

I leaved the last row of pavements stones away. In this way it will be avoid the setting of the aches and shop fronts on top of the pavement. This row will be glued carefully in place after I have finished the arches and the shop fronts.

 

 

blogentry-11675-0-22135600-1401538821_thumb.jpg

 

I glued the pavement on the asphalt base with coloured acrylic modelling paste. For collaring I used Kassel Earth pigment. When I laid the pavement on the asphalt I saw it didn’t fit exactly flat. The modelling paste will fill up the gaps between the asphalt road and the kerbs.

 

Also this time an overview picture of the diorama, so you can follow the development from black and white to color.

 

blogentry-11675-0-59843600-1401538882_thumb.jpg

 

As always your suggestions and comments are much appreciated.

 

Regards,

Job

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  • RMweb Gold

Hello Job. Interesting that the paper means so much for the depth of the colour, I didn't know that. Thanks for always noting down the names of the products, it's very useful.

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Hello Job. Interesting that the paper means so much for the depth of the colour, I didn't know that. Thanks for always noting down the names of the products, it's very useful.

 

Thanks, Mikkel.

Watercolor paper is made to adopt water and inkjet printers do use water based inks. 

At my last visit to my art shop in Amsterdam I found a very interesting handmade paper. 

I haven't tested it out om my printer, but if it is doing what I aspect I will use it for one of the shop in Station Road.

Working with art materials keeps surprising me. But I have learned already to go for the professional ones and not the student range.

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  • RMweb Gold

Thanks for the information. I have been reading a bit about watercolor paper and it is amazing how much there is to learn about it.

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Very interesting combinations of various mediums with an art paper. I have often wondered how effective and how much depth can be achieved using a two dimensional printed paper to get a 3D effect.

Think there could be some experimenting coming on!

May I ask what printer you are using ?

 

I would like to see Bath stone produced in the Scalescenes range which would be of interest to me specifically.

 

My trial using an A4 self adhesive label printed with brickwork was interesting but I felt there wasn't enough depth ( but that's just me!) however these printed products are far superior to early papers.

 

Happy modelling keep it up.

 

Grahame

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Thanks for the information. I have been reading a bit about watercolor paper and it is amazing how much there is to learn about it.

 

The only problem is to find watercolor paper that is suitable for my printer.

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Very interesting combinations of various mediums with an art paper. I have often wondered how effective and how much depth can be achieved using a two dimensional printed paper to get a 3D effect. Think there could be some experimenting coming on! May I ask what printer you are using ? I would like to see Bath stone produced in the Scalescenes range which would be of interest to me specifically. My trial using an A4 self adhesive label printed with brickwork was interesting but I felt there wasn't enough depth ( but that's just me!) however these printed products are far superior to early papers. Happy modelling keep it up. Grahame

 

Because I was curious about Bath Stone I did search it up. I found this useful texture http://www.detaildesignonline.com/image_library/234#.U4slfPl_t8E .

I have made myself in this way already some stone and roof textures.

About the printer: I use a HP Photosmart. But in my opinion any good photo printer is usable. To get the result I like using an embossing pen and weathering with pastel pencils is essential for me.

I think label paper is to flat. I always use a good quality art paper.

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Because I was curious about Bath Stone I did search it up. I found this useful texture http://www.detaildesignonline.com/image_library/234#.U4slfPl_t8E .

I have made myself in this way already some stone and roof textures.

About the printer: I use a HP Photosmart. But in my opinion any good photo printer is usable. To get the result I like using an embossing pen and weathering with pastel pencils is essential for me.

I think label paper is to flat. I always use a good quality art paper.

 

Hi Job,

 

Sorry for the late response, I'm grateful to you for the link and taking the time to reply.

Happy modelling

Grahame

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