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First Signal for Sherton Abbas!


wenlock

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blog-0682678001406018587.jpgNow the track laying has been completed, its time to make a start on the signalling and point rodding for the layout. Despite reading numerous books on the subject, I must confess that I find comprehending the mysteries of signalling to be one of the more challenging aspects of the hobby. With this in mind, I decided it would be a good idea to get some expert advice! Fortunately for me, Mike (The Stationmaster) was a fount of useful information and clarified what was needed during a very enjoyable chat at the last RmWeb open day in Taunton. Apart from the Platform Starter, the rest of the signals on the layout would most likely have been ground signals. However Mike suggested that that a twin arm, single post siding signal could have been used to control the exit from the loop, through the double slip onto the main line. This idea really appealed to me, I think there's something quintessentially "GWR branchline" about shunting signals with the white ring on them and I was keen to have an example on my layout!

 

I decided to use components from Model Signal Engineering to build my signals, so an order was placed with Wizard Models http://www.wizardmodels.co.uk/FrameSetShop.php?DM=wizabout One of the items in their extensive range of parts is a complete kit of components that build up to make a model of a wooden post 4 foot arm signal. This looked like it would be an ideal starting point for making my first 7mm scale signal. The parts arrived promptly, so armed with Derek Mundy's " Signals for the Railway Modeller"http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/0950834009/ref=cm_cr_asin_lnk I made a start on the Home Starter signal.

 

 

Components included in the GWR Wooden post, 4 foot arm signal kit

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The kit provides a white metal post that's long enough to build a signal up to a scale 26 feet high, but can easily be cut down to make shorter length posts. The instructions state that Home Starter signals were often set on 16 foot posts, so this was the length that I cut my post to represent. The kit includes a piece of sheet brass that can be used as a base for the signal, so I soldered a brass locating peg to this base and then glued the post to it using 5 minute epoxy resin. The signal arm is built up from etched brass parts and these were soldered together using using 188 degree solder paste. I'm always very wary of trying to solder brass to white metal, so once again I used 5 minute epoxy to fix the signal arm bearing tube in position.

 

Post, Base, Finial, Bearing tube and Signal Arm

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The balance weight/arm pivot bracket was folded up and then carefully soldered to strengthen the joints. The balance arm itself was built up from brass etched layers, which were once again soldered together using solder paste. A 0.65mm nickel silver wire was used as a pivot and the components soldered in position using graphite as an anti-flux to ensure the arm could move freely.

 

Post and Balance arm/pivot bearing

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The ladder was then cut to length and soldered to the brass bass plate and attached to the post with 5 minute epoxy. A safety ring was formed from brass strip and this was carefully soldered in to place at the top of the ladder.

 

Ladder, Safety ring and lamp casting

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I chickened out from trying to make the lamp work using bulbs or led's, so the rather nice lamp casting was simply glued into position onto its bracket! The signal arm was tried into position and the back blinder fitted to check that there were adequate clearances to allow the arm to move freely. The arm is simply held in position for the pictures with a blob of wax and will be removed to allow painting to take place.

 

Finished signal

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I still need to form the operating wire, but In my opinion it captures the look of a Great Western Railway Signal!

 

As usual your thoughts and comments are very welcome and if anyone can point me in the direction of a picture showing a single post, twin arm ringed shunting signal, I'd be most interested.

 

Best wishes

 

Dave

  • Like 10
  • Craftsmanship/clever 1

12 Comments


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  • RMweb Gold

That really is splendid, Dave - as is the layout, having had a nose at it on Saturday, for which many thanks. Incidentally you have inspired me to have a fourth go at lining my GWR 4-wheelers in full monty livery, so it's been out with the paint stripper and bow pen for one last valiant push...

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  • RMweb Gold

Thanks Al, glad you liked the progress so far!  Good luck with the lining, Its a challenge in 7mm, so 4mm will be tricky in the extreme!

 

Hope to meet up again soon, let me know if you fancy going to Wells.

 

Dave

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Dave,

That's coming along rather nicely!  I'm disappointed that you haven't hollowed out the middle of the finial ball ;-)

Ian

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  • RMweb Gold

Nice Job Dave. If I remember correctly distant signals were still red in those days. Quite agree about the ringed goods signal. Thinking back to my trainwatching days it was the sound of the signal being pulled off that alerted you to an impending train. I find the same thing works on a layout.

Don

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  • RMweb Gold

Dave,

That's coming along rather nicely!  I'm disappointed that you haven't hollowed out the middle of the finial ball ;-)

Ian

Thanks Ian, glad you like it! I'll get my Dremmel out and modify the finial ball, but only if you do the same for the signals on Modbury! :-)

 

Dave

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  • RMweb Gold

Nice Job Dave. If I remember correctly distant signals were still red in those days. Quite agree about the ringed goods signal. Thinking back to my trainwatching days it was the sound of the signal being pulled off that alerted you to an impending train. I find the same thing works on a layout.

Don

Thanks Don, yes definitely red distant signals in the Edwardian period. I only wish I had enough space in my workshop to include one on the layout! I know what you mean about hearing a signal being pulled, guaranteed to get my attention:-)

 

Dave

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I looked at 

 

Thanks Ian, glad you like it! I'll get my Dremmel out and modify the finial ball, but only if you do the same for the signals on Modbury! :-)

Dave

 

I'm more disappointed that it isn't lit (sorry). I pondered the open finial in 2mm for a while and decided that not only were they going to be difficult to produce they would be incredibly fragile and opted for producing a finial from a dressmakers pin (~0.6mm diameter) with a 1mm brass ball fitted into a centre drilled hole in the brass post. Solid and virtually to scale size (albeit lacking in minute detail, which I hope to imply by creative painting)

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  • RMweb Gold

Hi Richard,

 

I did think about trying to light the lamps, but decided that as I'm not planning on putting lights in the buildings or on the platform then it might look a bit contrived. 

 

Still as they say "You can't please all the people, all the time!" :-)

 

Those 2mm finials sound ideal for the purpose aesthetically, but I reckon they could inflict a pretty nasty injury unless you're very careful!

 

Dave

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  • RMweb Gold

Hi Dave, just catching up here after a vacation. Nice to know that I'm not the only one who feels a bit lost in terms of signalling procedures. It's one of those things that just won't stick in my head, perhaps because I haven't really seen it in operation/practice. 

 

That Home Starter looks like a very nice bit of kit - very tempting to have a go at a 4mm version (but will only need ground signals for my purposes currently).

 

What will you be doing for ground signals? In 4mm MSE used to have the "mini semaphore" ground signals that were used between 1890 and 1910, but they have been withdrawn for tooling for some time (been waiting 4 or 5 years now), and they don't seem to be in the 7mm list at all.

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  • RMweb Gold

H Mikkel,

 

I hope you had a good holiday :-)  Yes the MSE parts are really nice and go together really well.  Re the ground signals, I think I'm probably going to have a go at scratch building some.  I'd like to have some of the early rotating body type point indicators, with the round red and green square panels on them.  I just need to find a decent picture of one, or even better some scale dimensions!  I'm surprised that no one seems to make a 7mm kit for a GWR ground signal, you would have thought that it would be a fairly popular item!

 

Best wishes

 

Dave

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  • RMweb Gold

Ah yes, those would be interesting too. Just looking at one now in Stephen Williams branchline book (vol 1). Doesn't look too hard to scratchbuild - except if you want it to work?

 

PS: Have you seen Richard's 2mm example and photos here:  http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/59902-little-and-lit-finished/  

 

PPS, Tim Venton (who is also on here) may also have some photos, see his page here: http://www.tventon.freeserve.co.uk/ground.htm

 

Looks like you have an excuse for a trip to Didcot :-)

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  • RMweb Gold

Hi Mikkel, thanks for those links, very useful!  Richards example is a pretty remarkable piece of modelling, I quite like tackling fiddly projects but I think building that in 2mm would have tipped me over the edge!

 

The picture in Stephen Williams book is exactly the one that inspired me to have a go at building one.  Mine won't be lit I'm afraid, but I don't think it should be too difficult to make it rotate (Ever the optimist!)

 

A trip to Didcot is definitely on the cards, I'm planning on combining a visit there with a trip to Pendon during August :-)

 

Looking forward to an update from Farthing!

 

Dave

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