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A row of Victorian cottages – part four


Job's Modelling

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The starting point.

 

blogentry-11675-0-87910600-1432469792_thumb.jpg

 

Last time I had finished the frame for my row of cottages

It all started reasonable well. I made a new template and printed the texture sheets on my textured photo paper of 190 gr/m. In the beginning everything went well.

 

blogentry-11675-0-90830600-1432469836_thumb.jpg

 

At the and I thought It would be handy to use small parts to fill in the openings that where left at the upper part of the windows. And here things went not the way I want it. I knew that with thinner paper it wasn’t a problem to work this way.

But a picture says more than a thousand words. And I was also content with some parts. So let’s see:

 

blogentry-11675-0-04371100-1432469869_thumb.jpg

 

With the red rectangles I’m not content:

A. The horizontal and vertical lines are too much visible by the smaller parts

B. The smaller white edges can’t be coloured in with a pastel pencil

 

But:

A. The longer vertical connection line (the small long blue rectangle) are almost invisible. I used two different textures here.

B. The will try to paint the white window edges with some Vallejo paint.

C. I like the way the printed doors look and the weathered appearance.

 

I won’t use to different brick textures in my next attempt, because in the APA-box it will not be visible. And I will use the Scalescenes templates to create the cottages. I have to use long small brick parts between the templates to create the front of my row, but the vertical connections will be less visible. I also will hide some connections with a drainpipe. Historically it is also correct if the brick connection is not totally even.

 

I hope my next attempt will give the good result. But remember: we learn from our mistakes.

 

Or if anyone has useful information, comments or suggestions please let me know.

Thanks for reading and till next time and kind regards,

Job

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You don't say what scale this is in so I am presuming 00.

 

Personally I would do away with the wraps, and print directly onto the card if your printer is capable of handling it.

Secondly where you have a join, make sure it is between two houses in the terrace, then make a buttress piece to cover any joins.

 

Although some terraces had brick fronted lintels, there were a lot built with stone lintels, you could do that instead of brick, the same goes for the window cills, stone is fine.

 

I would also suggest putting the roof tiles on thicker card to prevent the bowing you have, or stick coffee stirrers onto the backs to give them some stiffness.

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You don't say what scale this is in so I am presuming 00.

 

Personally I would do away with the wraps, and print directly onto the card if your printer is capable of handling it.

Secondly where you have a join, make sure it is between two houses in the terrace, then make a buttress piece to cover any joins.

 

Although some terraces had brick fronted lintels, there were a lot built with stone lintels, you could do that instead of brick, the same goes for the window cills, stone is fine.

 

I would also suggest putting the roof tiles on thicker card to prevent the bowing you have, or stick coffee stirrers onto the backs to give them some stiffness.

Thanks for the comment.

 

My printer doesn't print at card or thick photo papers. So I have to do some wrapping. But the Textured photo papers give also a nice result for color ant texture.

And thanks  for the suggestion to use a buttress between two cottages. I will see if I need to use it.

 

I thought about stone lintels but wanted to try brick ones. Using the Scalescenes fronts I don't heave that problem.

 

I will use your suggestion to glue some coffee sticks behind the roofs to give them some more stiffness. Next time I will use some thicker card,

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Hi Job,

Hope all is well with you, I'm enjoying your posting for this project very much.

As I can't post a few of my pictures here I'll pm you with my trial building using downloaded Scalescenes brick work.

I used an image which was printed onto an A4 self adhesive label stuck directly onto a card building and saved me problem the of glueing as another process.

 

Kind regards

 

Grahame

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Hi Job, Hope all is well with you, I'm enjoying your posting for this project very much. As I can't post a few of my pictures here I'll pm you with my trial building using downloaded Scalescenes brick work. I used an image which was printed onto an A4 self adhesive label stuck directly onto a card building and saved me problem the of glueing as another process. Kind regards Grahame

 

The mean difference for my is the quality of the colors and texture using high quality textured photo paper.

I have to admit it has also so disadvantages. 

But that's a part of the journey. I also liked to work with high quality water color paper and that also worked out very well.

I think in the future I will use different types of paper for different parts of the building.

For instance to create layered doors and windows  I have to use a good quality of drawing paper and not photographic paper.

The smooth photographic paper worded well for the windows in the factory and the background building.

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  • RMweb Gold

Hi Job, well there may be things to fix with the visible lines and sagging roof - but for me what really works are the colours and textures. It seems to me that your experiments with that are paying off. It's a pity if the different brick textures aren't visible in the APA box, as I like the subtle differences in the photos above.  Once those challenges are fixed I think the appearance is going to be very convincing.

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Hi Job, The model looks quite nice to my eyes, yes I can see the issues you mention, but think its a minor niggle rather than a mayor issue. One possible solution that might be worth a try on a future build might be to alter your artworks so that the brick colours at each end of the sheet match, kind of a mirrored effect.

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Hi Job, well there may be things to fix with the visible lines and sagging roof - but for me what really works are the colours and textures. It seems to me that your experiments with that are paying off. It's a pity if the different brick textures aren't visible in the APA box, as I like the subtle differences in the photos above.  Once those challenges are fixed I think the appearance is going to be very convincing.

 

I have started already with a new front. I agree with you about the colors and the texture.

Will also try some different card for the windows.

This is all part of my modelling process and trying to achieve best result.

I won't through away this front, so I can also use this one for the time being.

There are some possibilities to make the total appearance better, but I prefer to build another one.

Must put my diorama more often in the APA-box to see what is really visible.

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Hi Job, The model looks quite nice to my eyes, yes I can see the issues you mention, but think its a minor niggle rather than a mayor issue. One possible solution that might be worth a try on a future build might be to alter your artworks so that the brick colours at each end of the sheet match, kind of a mirrored effect.

 

Thanks for your nice comment and your suggestion.

I use the "mirror" effect for my background sky.

Your suggestion is not possible for the Scalescenes textures, because the are secured PDF's 

Could be very useful for some textures I have downloaded from CG-textures.

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  • RMweb Gold

I have started already with a new front. I agree with you about the colors and the texture.

Will also try some different card for the windows.

This is all part of my modelling process and trying to achieve best result.

I won't through away this front, so I can also use this one for the time being.

There are some possibilities to make the total appearance better, but I prefer to build another one.

Must put my diorama more often in the APA-box to see what is really visible.

 

As we take more and more photos of our layouts/dioramas, I suppose there is also more and more a dilemma about whether to build for the actual viewing condition or for the camera! Most people would probabyl say we build for what we can actually see - but we also know that feeling where the close-up-camera makes us want to improve something we had never noticed before... 

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I decided to build a new front because both, the direct viewing and the photo, are not the standard I want to achieve.

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