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Starting out again in modelling


4 COR

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I'm fairly new here (at least at time of writing...!), and very much a beginner compared to the quality of the work here, though when I was a kid (several decades ago) I used to make model aircraft and the like. I started doing a bit of modelling again as my son got his first train set, and my father retired and finally got round to getting a permanent layout setup (about 40 years after he planned to! I am chief electrical officer on that one...). 

 

Anyhow, I decided to have a go at some Parkside kits to start - I don't yet have a layout to run on, apart from a small 8x4 roundy type that my son has that I need to carry on trying to finish off - but my fledgling collection can still grow in the meantime. My interest is in BR Southern region around the 1950-60s - so spanning the BR Crimson and BR(S) time frames, with late steam and early diesel - I grew up in Surrey (a bit later than the 60s I should point out!), and so was very familiar with the railways of South London, and the Central Region.

 

First up (ignoring the Goods shed I made a few years back for the 8x4...) is a SOuthern Region CCT (with Plywood sides) - kit PC47. As my first Parkside kit, I was a little apprehensive, but it went together quite nicely. I airbrushed it in Railmatch BR Crimson (with black ends - Tamiya acrylic), and have used transfers from @cctransuk which went on very nicely :) The underframe was painted in Humbrol 173. Weathering started off with a dark wash picking out the door frames and external irons, and a little dark streaking down the sides and on the roof. Then airbrushed Railmatch Frame Dirt on the sides, with Railmatch Roof Dirt on top. I went for a fairly dirty look - not quite so bad that the numbers, etc are illegible, and you can still tell it is crimson, but it's very much toned down! Slightly annoying is that one of the cosmetic coupling hooks has dropped off (and I don't have a spare...). NEM pockets to follow - I'll wait until I have a few to do before sorting them out in a batch.

 

Feedback much appreciated - I've very much learning as I go, but with excellent resources here to look at, as well as YouTube vids, guides etc. Thanks for reading! (I've already started a Van C (BY) as my next item...)

 

"Works Condition" (pre-weathering)

 

"Works Condition" (pre-weathering)

 

Post weathering...

 

PXL_20240112_100830165.jpg.f65c74006ca81979a5f40009d0226bdd.jpg

PXL_20240112_101238480.jpg.29440dc68e199508077e3e329370f16e.jpg

Edited by 4 COR

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The absolutely critical thing is to ensure that the vehicle has all 4 feet on the floor. A mirror is useful as a dead flat surface to check that there is no twist /rock whatsoever on the chassis. A chassis where only 3 wheels are in contact is liable to derailment

 

Unfortunately the longer the wheelbase , the greater the  precision in assembly has to be to ensure the chassis is dead square. Hence a vehicle like this is much more likely to cause trouble than a 9' wheelbase wagon.

 

Hence some folk fit compensation - a rocking etched axleguard unit at one end - to avoid the problem on long wheelbase vehicles like these

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Nice weathering, a fine build. 

 

I'd agree with ravenser, compensation in the form of a rocking W  iron at one end is a very good thing. Nothing is ever perfectly square or level, and even if built well things do distort a bit with age. 

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Weathering looks very  good,  these  vans  were  always  filthy,  the  design  being  difficult  to  clean.

My  local  preserved  railway  bought  a  number  around  1980,  one  was  a  reasonably  clean  BR  Blue,  the  others  all-over  Brake  Dust  brown.  These  were  assumed  to  be  Blue,  later  it  was  discovered  one  of  these  was  actually  still  in  BR  green  with  only  1 or  2  replaced  boards  in  Blue.

 

Pete

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Thanks for the comments all - in terms of the build, the van is (currently!) square with all 4 wheels on the level on a mirror, but point taken with aging etc. 

 

For future reference, are there any thoughts on what are suitable for these type of vans, and are there any thoughts using internal compensation units (like the MJT 2292) on this type of van? Lots of learning here for me I feel!

 

 

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4 feet on the ground, or at least on level and flat railheads, is indeed the key to successful running of these kit vehicles, along with ballasting.  My first action when opening the packet is to check that the floor is not warped, which to be fair in Peco/Parkside's case it never is with current toolings.  Careful dressing of the solebars before fixing them to the underside of the floor and the use of Lego bricks as formers to ensure that the bodyshell is square and true is vital, and as there is no guide to ensuring that the axleboxes are exactly opposite each other, so care must be taken here as well.  The solebar-floor connection is the most important part of the assembly, and the use of a slow-setting adhesive that allows fine adjustment before it is allowed to go off sealing the final postion is advised.  I have a small lady's make up mirror in the toolbox on which I can place wagon chassis and bogies to visually check for level by observing the reflection of the bottom of the wheels, and this is of course level so is good to test for any rocking.

 

I have Parkside vans that have been running on the layout for over six years with no sign yet (fingers crossed) of warping or going out of true, but have had trouble with Dapol Kitmaster kits, especially a Meat Van which I was very happy to replace with a Hornby...  I assume this is down to the plastic used, as my old Airfix minerals from back in the day ran well enough for years...  Chivers Finelines have supplied me with two long wheelbase van, an LNER 'Pigeon' BY and an LMS 6-wheel CCT (actually 4-wheel with a dummy centre wheelset), both of which have been running for several years and have retained their squareness. 

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