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The real slim Shady


Pugsley

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Whilst not exactly a thrilling example, I thought I'd post a little about how I've made the cab sunshades, as it has useful applications beyond this simple example. In fact, I used the same technique when I made the operator cab for the 07-275 tamper that I've yet to finish.

 

I found a suitable picture of the sunshades on line, that would do for what I wanted with the minimum of manipulation. It is possible to correct perspective and rotate images within photoshop, or GIMP is a useful, free, alternative.

 

I cropped the part of the image I wanted out of the picture and pasted it into CorelDraw. Here, I can resize it and lock it as the background. There is a trace program included with the version of CorelDraw that I have, but it isn't much use TBH. Instead, I used the standard drawing tools to trace around the edge myself. This is the result:

blogentry-6668-12655664416831.jpg

 

The curved part had come out a little flat, so I adjusted that, by eye, to match the curvature of the roof. Measuring the width of the window gave me the width of the shade, so the drawing was adjusted to that dimension. A test piece was printed, cut out, and placed against the window aperture to check the dimensions. This highlighted that the item was too deep, so this was adjusted whilst keeping the width constant. Once happy, the part was duplicated 4 times, and the final template printed.

 

Here are the tools required for this job (excluding the scissors ;) ):

blogentry-6668-12655664684604_thumb.jpg

 

The pritt-stick secures the template to the glazing curing the cutting process, but peels off quite readily. Even if some should stick, all traces can be removed with water. Once cut out, this is the result:

blogentry-6668-12655664735758_thumb.jpg

 

I had originally planned on using Tamiya Smoke to tint these and have them slightly see-through, like the real thing. However, it just isn't dark enough, so ended up painting them with black acrylic. They will be secured into the cab roof, anyhow, so the fact that they're not see through shouldn't detract from the final effect.

 

blogentry-6668-12655664635678_thumb.jpg

 

I'm going to secure them with the canopy glue shown in the picture - it seems to be a kind of PVA adhesive, originally designed for securing aircraft canopies - it dries perfectly clear. It's a lot more controllable that superglue, and isn't very visible if a little too much is used. I've also used it to secure the glazing into the cab assemblies - it's proved to be a very useful product so far. It's not exactly cheap, but the bottle should last for a very long time!

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thanks youve reminded me I need to do these for my 40, theres a good shot in the movie robbery of the 40 ones with a chalked on headcode.

 

Mike

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thanks youve reminded me I need to do these for my 40, theres a good shot in the movie robbery of the 40 ones with a chalked on headcode.

 

Mike

Mike, I can send you a copy of the template file as a pdf if you like - pm me your email address.

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My name is huh? My name is what?...biggrin.gif

Lovely work, such a shame you're not going to pose one down, and they'll be largely hidden. Such are the joys of "every detail" modelling! laugh.gif

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Thanks Jo. If I'd sprayed them black, I think I probably would pose one down, as it is they'll be visible through the cab windows when the cab lights are on and through the windscreen from some angles, so they're not totally pointless! :lol:

 

I would say most details, rather than every detail because there's some parts I've conciously missed out because I value my sanity and I expect I'll find something I've missed once I'm no longer in a position to be able to fit it... :D

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