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Can you tell what it is yet? Progress with the Sentinel!


James Hilton

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Slow but steady progress, that's what wins the day (so they say)...

It's been quite a while since I posted up photos of progress with my Judith Edge Sentinel kit. To be honest, despite what appears to be massive progress it's not really taken much time to build the body - it came together surprisingly quickly - and I must add very easily due to excellent kit design and well fitting parts - quality etches I guess!

 

The first stumbling block for me was mounting the Black Beetle - as the kit is designed for a Tenshodo Spud. I bodged a mounting bracket (a U-shaped piece across the footplate, with a L bracket to mount to the motor bogie boss - scratchbuilt from spare material in the kit). Once this was sorted I could move on to the body - as due to the way I've built the kit the bogie is now captive and cannot be easily removed. Perhaps an odd decision, but one I struggled to see an alternative too due to the design of the bogie. Mike of Judith Edge does state the kit isn't designed for the Black Beetle, and although I've shown it's a possible fit, it isn't ideal.

 

The bonnet came together nicely, the fuel tank was more of a b**ger but I got there in the end with much cursing and burnt fingers - it's the grill detail that's difficult (for a beginner like me!). I used 0.3mm wire for the handles on the engine covers and also the sandbox handles on the chassis at this point. I also modified the engine cover doors by filing on a slight chamfer to the front top edge to match prototype photos of DH26.

 

The cab sides and fronts went together fairly easily - I took the opportunity to replace the etched handrails with 0.45mm brass wire which visually makes a big difference. The folds were quite easy, but the lower edge of the side windows was difficult - even using the Hold and Fold - to get a sharp edge without visible deflection at the window pillars. What I ended up with was a bodge, but it's passable!

 

The last step was to modify the cab floor and control desk to sit on top of the bogie and here she is posed in moody black and white on top of the Don Thorpe book on the MSC Railway - the bible (and a big thanks to Jan who earlier this year sold it on to me!).

 

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Next up is the cab roof dry fitting, making up some windows to fit snugly in the frames, finished details on the chassis before priming. I think I'll attach the roof and bonnets with glue once it's painted - but we'll see! That will also allow me to add some much needed ballast weight before firmly attaching them to the body. Questions, comments and encouragement welcomed! I'm proud to have got this far - I really am chuffed to have been able to produce something I'm really pleased with!

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  • RMweb Premium

That's looking very good but why are you making the roof removeable? There are no visible joins in the roof area of these Sentinels and all the corners are slightly rounded, the roof is designed to be soldered on and filed/sanded smooth all round.

Michael Edge

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I won't be making the roof removeable - just that I'll need to paint inside the cab before I do fit it! Hence dry fit. Not sure if I'll then be-able to solder it on (that would be ideal) but I'll be definitely making it a good fit with rounded corners like the prototype even if I have to glue and use filler.

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I won't be making the roof removeable - just that I'll need to paint inside the cab before I do fit it! Hence dry fit. Not sure if I'll then be-able to solder it on (that would be ideal) but I'll be definitely making it a good fit with rounded corners like the prototype even if I have to glue and use filler.

 

That approach strikes me as making rather a lot of unnecessary work for yourself and at the expense of rather a lot of additional handling and re-finishing of a part-complete model while making good all the joins. If you can get the motor bogie out, do and do the cab properly. Nice work otherwise.

 

Adam

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  • RMweb Premium

You should be able to get to the motor fixing screw by taking the engine casing off.

Michael Edge

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Window pillars - I had a similar problem with the Steelman Royale. The problem is the Hold + Fold, there is a weak spot in the (otherwise excellent) design. When holding brass it grips on the 'innermost' edge, leaving the 'outer' edge, the one nearest the fold, unsupported. This is because the aluminium top clamp is at an angle, think of an open clothes peg. Most of the time it isn't a problem. The solution is to pack the other part of the clamp with scrap brass fret so it clamps evenly. If the above doesn't make sense catch me at an exhibition and buy me tea and I'll try to explain it a bit better. With diagrams. And arm waving.

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