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coombe junction - Hoodies...Part I...


bcnPete

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Update - Brimming with enthusiasm from the Expo (was it really a week ago that I was flying back?) and keen to try and avoid the usual summer recess of modelling, I decided to try and have a go at my first 2mm wagon etch chassis.

 

One thing that really struck me at the Expo, was not only the overall quality of the layouts and the trackwork, but how much the rolling stock makes a difference. Up until now I have been rewheeling my old N gauge stock (some of it 20 years plus) and while r-t-r standards have obviously improved enormously in that time, there is in comparison, a fineness and delicate quality to the etched chassis's available.

 

So, armed with Carr's paste and a hot iron, last night I started to assemble the chassis for the first of 18 clay hoods for the layout. Previously on RMWeb 3 I had sourced the Parkwood UCV kits and assembled one kit on the recommended Peco chassis. First job was to remove the chassis from the body...with disasterous results...meaning I am one body down :(

 

However, I have assembled most of the 2FS chassis now and considering my soldering is at best, hopeless, I think I can improve on the next one. The main problem I found was folding up the axleboxes in 3 layers...I might rethink this for the next one as I believe the cast white metal versions remain out of stock.

 

It does run 'sweet as' and the next job will be to build the body and attach to the chassis. The Parkwood kit comes with a buffer beam and although I wanted to remove this and use the chassis etched buffer beam it will involve too much modification of the kit ends as the steel ribs protrude, through the beam at one end.

 

A few pics of initial progress and overall I am pleased with my first etched chassis build - the comparison with the Peco chassis is I think, self evident...1 down...17 to go... :blink:

 

Parkwood UCV on Peco chassis...

blogentry-3290-127866630105.jpg

2FS 9 foot chassis...

blogentry-3290-127866634563.jpg

I am hoping the solder will clean up a little...

blogentry-3290-127866635602.jpg

 

Pete

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That is looking good Pete. I suspect that most of the solder will be very well hidden under the paintwork if you can't get it off.

If you are going down the DG route don't forget to fold down the coupling boxes.

 

Something that I have found with the multiple layers on the axel boxes is that they get much easier with practice, but one done running a small amount of solder round the edge can make them look a lot tidier.

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Pete... soldering in that heat - brave man! Looking good. It's often difficult to exactly see how good in photos until some pain goes on to unify the finish... which I'm guessing you'll be getting around to at some time. Watching with interest... Jon

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That looks really good, Pete!smile.gif

 

Soldering-up the axleboxes is one of my least favourite jobs when building 2mm chassis. If you really struggle, there is a selection of etched springs and axleboxes in the 2mm shop - these come on a frame which you fold up as one (rather than having to fold each axlebox separately), so are a lot easier to solder together.

 

You need to check that the brake lever on your chassis is in the right place - the horizontal 'tail' at the top should slot into the hole etched in the solebar (although I find you often have to tweak the brake lever to get it to fit)

 

Andy

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Kris - Thanks - Forgot about the coupling boxes - will do so, however planning to couple the hoods in two fixed rakes using the 3 links seen at the Expo...but with DG's at the two outer ends of the rakes. Thanks also for the tip on the axle boxes - I was suffering a bit from oxygen starvation at that point last night :mellow:

 

Jon - Yep - the plan is to correct the brake lever (thanks Andy ;) ) correct the coupling boxes (thanks Kris ;) ) assemble the body and then prime it...which can cover or expose a whole load more imperfections!

 

Andy - Thanks also for the encouragment - I will certainly look at those axlebox etches...and having slept on it, I awoke to have a cunning plan involving a sheet of plastic card...am dreaming about trains now...clearly, I need to get out more ;)

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I thought that most cast axleboxes/springs were back in stock. If you can get used to doing the etched ones reasonably well they do look better imo - and you'll save a few pennies (or eurocents). I hate this part of assembly too - once the central hole gets smaller than the top hat and there is no location (why can't we have stepped top hats to provide location for the outer layers and make this easier?) You can get solder off with glass fibre pencils and all manor of scrapers such as Geoff had on display last weekend, but it's so much easier to put a bit less on in the first place. Make them nice and dirty, especially below floor level and they'll look fine.

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Rich - Thanks for this - just checked yesterday and I think the cast ones I need are still TOS - Good point with the solder...less is more and all that - I do feel I can improve on the second chassis now having used this as a test - after the hoods I have a stack of Stephen Harris kits awaiting assembly :unsure: - Pete

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Hello Pete :)

 

I agree with the others in saying that is great for a first attempt. I clean my etched bits with one of those fine fibre brushes as rich says and it works wonders, you obviously need to be careful of the little bits that come off it though. A final scrub with an old toothbrush and some Ajax type stuff helps get the flux off.

 

Keep going...

 

Missy :)

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Missy - Thanks for the kind words - now I can see the attraction to making kits from etches...one day perhaps the 2FS 08 kit - that said, thankfully diesels are slightly more boxy and I guess easier than steam locos...flying bananas excepted of course ;)

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