Hi Paul, Sorry to bear the bad news, but it's not possible to solder aluminium, even welding it is a specialist thing, I think it's to do with it oxidising at relatively low temperatures i.e. heat it and before it gets to molten you get lots of oxides forming that stop you making a clean joint, so it has to be welded in a 'protective atmosphere' of inert gases.

Anyway, if joining alloy parts I would use an epoxy resin glue, make sure the fit of parts is spot-on first, then hold them in place with whatever; clamps, weights, blu-tac et al, then add a fast setting epoxy and warm it with a hair dryer to encourage it to flow and fill joints. I'm sure others will also add their advice. Make sure you post some pictures for us.

Have fun

Liddy

Hi Paul, Sorry to bear the bad news, but it's not possible to solder aluminium, even welding it is a specialist thing, I think it's to do with it oxidising at relatively low temperatures i.e. heat it and before it gets to molten you get lots of oxides forming that stop you making a clean joint, so it has to be welded in a 'protective atmosphere' of inert gases.

Anyway, if joining alloy parts I would use an epoxy resin glue, make sure the fit of parts is spot-on first, then hold them in place with whatever; clamps, weights, blu-tac et al, then add a fast setting epoxy and warm it with a hair dryer to encourage it to flow and fill joints. I'm sure others will also add their advice. Make sure you post some pictures for us.

Have fun

Liddy

Yes, you can solder aluminium provided that you use appropriate solder and flux.

The problem is that ali oxidizes instantly. Therefore you need to keep the job covered with flux (to keep the oxygen off) and abrade the surface where you want the solder to flow with a stainless steel scratch brush (to remove the existing oxidization layer).

Might be easier to use an adhesive of some sort instead

Cheers,

James

I'm pretty sure that Carrs used to do an aluminium solder and flux, came in yellow packaging if I recall correctly. I used it to solder a whitemetal end onto an MTK aluminium DMU body shell, tinned the aluminium with the ali solder and used lowmelt to bond to that.

Took a bit of effort but the joint has lasted twenty years.

Arthur

Thanks guys for the information. May consider using aluminium floors/roofs and combine scratch built sides in plasticard. Then use aluminium sides with roofs/floors from plasticard - twice as many coaches from the same number of aluminium components and cheaper too ... ! Regards, P

Back in the shed now that weather is warmer! Decided to make a start on the planned coaches. Have assembled my first 7mm Ian Kirk kit - LMS 57' open third, which has gone together quite well. Have used the extruded aluminium floor sections, which has now left me with the plasticard floors & other bits left over from the kits. Will use these to complete the aluminium shells purchased previously. Pictures to follow shortly. Does anyone have pictures or drawings of the undersides?

Thanks & regards,

P.

Pictures of early construction of this project are now in my gallery - album 'Carriage Construction'.

Album also contains picture of early construction of what I believe to be LMS 42' brake. Purchased box of 'bits & pieces' from 2nd hand stall at local show for £5. Box had LMS 42' brake scribbled on lid, have assembled body - one end was missing & fabricated missing end from plasticard and soldered together brass channel for a chassis. Now need to identify vehicle & obtain GA drawing/pictures/info to complete. Could this possibly be a 6-wheel vehicle? Any information would be appreciated.

Regards & thanks.

Paul Boot.

The box stated LMS 42' Brake - in fact it appears to be a LMS 42' baggage van. So don't always believe what you read on the tin! Box only contained body shell & one end. Made up a chassis from some brass channel - and floor plus missing end from made from plasticard. The parts box on workbench provided 2 bogie kits (£6 ea) and axles/wheels from 'Home of O Gauge' so, we now have a rolling model. More detail required, before final painting etc to complete - see latest picture in gallery.