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2FS Easitrac - Part 2

2mm Andy


Another week, another panic as I realise how little progress I've made in the last week!


In the last few days I've managed to do a bit more work on the turnouts. These, as with the plain track, use Easitrac components. I'd previously stuck the turnout timbering down, so first job was to cut some rail (nickel silver code 40 bullhead) and start threading chairs.



(Photo courtesy Mick Simpson)


The chairs are tiny, but can be threaded onto the rail fairly easily if the rail end is slightly chamfered (I did lose a couple to the carpet gremlins thoughangry.gif ). Anyway, after threading enough of the 3 types of chair (plain, check and slide) into position, the 'straight' stock rail was stuck down using MEK following the Templot plan underneath.


Next, I made a start assembling the crossing. There are a number of jigs available to assist with this;




As can be seen, the crossing vee has been assembled upside down in the RH jig (having been filed and soldered-up in the other jig on the left) and the wing rails added. The three shallow slots are to locate three strips of nickel silver which will be soldered to the underside of the rails to keep everything in place. Being a bit of a skinflint, I use bits of etch surround from wagon kits for these.




Here you can see the completed crossing laid in place on the sleepering. It's only loosely held at this stage - the plain chairs have yet to be added at each end to allow it to be fixed down. This is my second attempt at the crossing here - I wasn't 100% happy with this one or it's predecessor, so a third one is currently being made up in the same way. One thing I have found with 2mm modelling is that if you're not totally happy with something, it is best to remake it before you go any further. It only costs pence to solder up the crossings, but trying to correct one that had been fixed in position would be very frustrating!




One last photo brings the story up to date. Over the next week I hope to carry on with the trackwork and make a start on the wiring.




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  • RMweb Premium

That's looking nice Andy. You have taken the steps that I need to over the couple of weeks.

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  • RMweb Gold

Nice work Andy...Perhaps I can send you an order for some common crossings ;)


...those boards don't look banana shaped...assume you sorted that one prior to starting?



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  • RMweb Premium

Am I right in thinking that you are attaching the track directly to the board and using the template to build on. I tried to build a point on a separate template using EasiTrak and found that I had managed to bow it along the length. This looks like a much better idea.


One question how are you planning on doing the tiebars and the subsequent connection to the point operating mechanism?





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Evening chaps,


Thanks for the comments - it all helps to keep me inspired and pushing things along!




Thanks - hope it's of use.




I have (hopefully) sorted the banana shape - it was the thin strip of wood directly under the track that had curled-up rather than the main boards. I would be seriously worried if these curled up as the baseboard frame is quite chunky!


On the basis of the crossings I've made so far (3, of which only 1 was of any use), I wouldn't recommend my services! As they say, practice makes perfect (I hope)




Yes - that's right. I figured that for a small layout it was easier to build the track in situ, especially as I wanted to use the sleeper strip and I figured that the chances of me building it on a jig, lifting it in one piece, relaying it and getting it nice and flat were pretty remote.


As regards the tiebars, I'm still weighing up the options. I bought a couple of the new Cobalt point motors last week, and I'm tempted to try and use these, but some numpty (ie. me) built a baseboard member right under where I need the point motor to be, so I'll need to arrange some sort of remote drive. More to come on this hopefully.



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