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Tracklaying..


Chrislock

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Greetings.

 

Thought as I now have one of these blog thingies I'd better post a view of the first move towards a simple little layout for my Midland engines.

The setting will be a small midland industrial town.

 

As described elsewhere, it is built on a partly hollowed out lack shelf recommended by Pete from Barca, but with easitrac laid on sellotape sticky fixer strip.

I used this on a previous N gauge shunting plank and it seemed to provide a clean and easy way of securing track, achieving sound insulation and laying down ballast. Of course the turnouts are not laid on this but on card of identical thickness coated with PVA, and will need to be ballasted traditionally.

 

I haven't yet decided what point motors to use, and will have to do a bit of research and also how to combine that with polarity switching? I had thought wire in tube, but I'm not sure my points are robust enough. I have seen some simplistic DIY solutions elsewere but any advice would be gratefully received!

I had made a few points to the same specs ( 1 in 6) and realise now that it would have been better to contruct them in situ using Templot ( which I don't have). Fortunately, the design of this layout is pretty much straight up and down, so the points have slipped into the trackplan reasonably well, with only one exception where I had to introduce a slight reverse curve into the coal yard...oops :O

 

Here is the sketch plan as shown on my Little Midland Rails thread on the RM forum, base loosely on Barnoldswick, though it is be no means a facsimile:

 

blogentry-5408-0-21155100-1295650621_thumb.jpg

 

The design is deliberately simple and uncluttered to try to give an impression of long and thin; and should permit some interesting shunting operations for its size.

 

I cut out and laid my own paper templates of where the track was going,then replaced the straight sections with the double sided tape. A scatter of ballast is necessary while the tape remains sticky. This will be thickened up later in places with a sprinkling of more ballast, laid down traditionally to taste; and of course painted.

 

Some fettling was required with the turnouts - another drawback to building them first probably!

Fingers crossed they will work ok when wired up ( DC) as my test trucks roll freely through each with only the very slightest of wobbles in a couple of places. Hmm.. go back to those before I carry on with owt else. You live and earn. Taking close up pictures was a great help as it reveals more than the magnifying glass.

 

Edit : I have tried to post a decent picture, but have found it difficult to do more than an overview which does not show the construction that clearly. Maybe try a close up instead sometime.

 

 

Regards,

Chris

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  • RMweb Gold

Nice one Chris

 

I do like the simplicity - A small selection of highly detailed rolling stock and a simple layout to run them on is really my cup of tea - keep up the great work.

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Thanks for the encouragement Pete.

I really don't have much space to build a bigger layout - we do have spare rooms but then we often put people up so I don't really want to take over one of them...to be honest if I id I might lok at 7mm... ;)

I do have my little study, which swmbo acknowledges is my little part of the house, but I have other interests to accomodate - musical gear mainly - so am reluctant to give this over completely to a railway room either.

So a little board, which can be fitted to a long wall is ideal; even if it is only 2.2 M long!

Nice to see your Coombe layout has resumed business.

I have been following that with interest - online and in the recent mag.

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  • RMweb Gold

Hi Chris.

 

Good to be able to visualize Litle Midland. I can just imagine your great locos and stock pulling up alongside the platform. And clean and uncluttered sounds good. Please do keep it coming!

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  • RMweb Gold

Hi again Chris - many thanks for your kind words.

 

In terms of your turnout operation (forgot to add to last post :rolleyes:) I can't see why wire in tube shouldn't be a problem if you include a limiter in the throw - that's just my own preference in terms of simplicity and electrics - otherwise I understand the Tortoise point motors seem to be a good choice.

 

Understood about the layout not overtaking your room(s)...the good thing about the shelves...is you can always add another...and another... ;)

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Hi Mikkel, Pete.

 

I am tempted to go electronic with the points as there are so few. I've never used point motors, and it strikes me that it would be a good way of learning.

 

I can't decide how to connect the boards together.

Mounting them on a portable supporting 2x1 frame seems a possiblity?

 

Then I could move the missus out of the lounge and set it all up in there when I want - she'd love that! :lol:

 

Plenty of time to decide, as this is going to be a slow, tentative build I think.

 

Regards,

Chris

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  • RMweb Gold

Chris,

 

Someone else asked me the other day how I joined my boards (shelves ;)) and I said by eye!

 

Strange as it may seem, I never put alignment dowels etc before laying the track across - I just have small rubber grometts (from DIY shops) which space it 10mm off our dining table and then I align by eye, which works fine....until my kids come running it and send it all flying :lol:

 

Seriously though, I will be making some sort of timber framework which will allow each board to drop into a tray of sorts which will self align them. Its drawn out in my mind...I just have to get around to it. All the time I can work on each board on the DRT, then I am less motivated to build the support structure.

 

Point motors sounds good...you have the space for them sorted anyway :D

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