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The brake van


Chrislock

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Howdy.

Here is a photo of the finished ( apart from DG couplings ) association 10tonner; standing for comparison alongside the Peco equivalent.

This build was actually more challenging than I expected, but generally went together well, with only one minor ck-up on my part - a buffer overlay which I managed to solder on upside down and had to remove. Many thanks to R. Brummit of the 2mm Club for his step by step photos - I don't honestly think I could have built it without. Even with that, I had to make one or two executive decisions. Fortunately there were many slight variations in these brake vans.

I opted to solder the body to the chassis as usual - when I make my next one I think I will try bolting them together so I can detail the inside and glaze it. My concernt his time was to try to get it together neatly.

The brake seems to overpower the association box van too.

The next one is a high sided version, so I will be interested to compare the sizes of the two. The small van almost looks like it is 1/160 rather than 1/152!

 

blogentry-5408-0-20319500-1297200187_thumb.jpg

 

Regards,

Chris

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Got to say I think it is easier to solder the chassis to the body. I have done this with my southern bv.

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Details of the Midland are outside my area of interest, but this looks plausible by comparison with the GWR which I do know quite well:

Until about 1902, height of covered vans was about 10 feet 6 inches.

Subsequently height was about 11 feet 9 inches (apart from a few exceptions of about 11 feet 3 inches or 12 feet 3 inches).

 

For comparison, brake van height remained constant at about 11 feet (excluding chimney).

 

Interestingly, there were a few open wagons which were almost as high as the covered vans - the "provender wagons" were about 10 feet high, with sides of 10 planks, and were used for transporting hay and straw for the use of GWR horses.

 

David

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Thanks for a mention. I'm glad something that I wrote is helpful to someone. I honestly don't know where the article is though; maybe you could point it out for me please? I do remember buying and building it, before it was in the shop listings. My brother has it now.

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Rich, it is in the VAG in files - scroll down and you will come to 'Wagon Instructions Sheets by Nigel Cliffe' - it's in there! I think it was Paul Martin who directed me to it.

 

Kris - I agree soldering is easier and possibly neater.

 

Regards,

Chris

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Looks very nice. Gingerbread is right about the roof heights. Many photos of that period show trains of differing roof heights.

If you want to be able to get inside one way is to make the roof removable. A fine screw disguised as the chimney screwed into a suitable stretcher across the roof can hold the roof on. Works in 7mm not tried it in 2mm though.

Don

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Rich, it is in the VAG in files - scroll down and you will come to 'Wagon Instructions Sheets by Nigel Cliffe' - it's in there! I think it was Paul Martin who directed me to it.

 

So it is. Thank you. I build chassis in a different order now, but I wouldn't like to live without my temperature controlled solder station.

 

 

 

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Well I have come up with the notion of soldering as much flat as possible before bending. It has made the early stages much easier.

I do wonder though on some of these kits why solebar axle and buffer holes are not ready formed to a diameter to accomodate association bearing and buffer shafts without the necessity to open them out?

It's not a huge job I know, though I did manage to bend one of the solebars in the process, but why not get ir right?

Oh, and in answer to the final statement on your instruction sheet - yes I am VERY pleased with my new piece of rolling stock! So much so, that I have ordered another brake and a cattle van...

Regards,

Chris

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