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1F first assembly


Chrislock

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blogentry-5408-0-19667600-1302900621_thumb.jpg

 

Spent a couple of hours this evening fitting conrods to the 1F and cutting out some of the inner footplate to allow them to turn freely.

The photo above shows the chassis and body fitted together for the first time. The motion works nice and smoothly when pushed with a finger; the lead pushed into the boiler coming into play.

 

 

Before the motor is fitted I need to do a bit more fettling to make the rear end sit in a little more snugly, and add a few more details to the chassis.

I also spent a while repainting the rails and sleepers on Little Midland. Next stop ballasting.

I have sent off the EC Scenics for some Woodland Scenics buff and light grey ballast. I am still not sure what to use as yet, and hope that one of those, or even a mix of the two might be a solution.

 

Regards

Chris

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Fantastic work there Chris!

 

The chassis does look really good along with the engine, its something I have never done yet (scratch building and engine). The good pointer is the fact the chassis without the motor is very free running so that will mean it should run well once the motor is in place.

 

The only other thing I can think of is give chemical blackening a go, not the carrs stuff but the Casey 'Gun Blue', you can get it for steel (for wheels) and brass (chassis) and works REALLY well, so much so I dont really paint chassis sideframes anymore and just blacken them. Anyway Eileens does it...(linky thing)

 

Missy :)

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Julia, thanks for that link. :)

I did not get on at all well with the Carrs, so abandoned it and tend to go for a thin wash of blackish enamel to dull down the brass- if anything. Could you contact me offthread and let me know which of those you recommend? I see there is a "blue" and "black"? They are not cheap, and I already have a shelf of Carrs!

 

My only slight regrets with this little build are that I couldn't achieve the 70:1 gearbox i was aiming for; and perhaps in not using 9mm wheels rather than the 8.5mm. I deliberately went for the smaller ones because I thought given the small size of the engine, they would be easier for me to accomodate under the footplate.

It is possible that I might try a chassis using the 9mm wheels, and find some willing person to mill me a gearbox for a price to my spec.

I already have an idea what I would do with this little chassis...! ;)

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My only slight regrets with this little build are that I couldn't achieve the 70:1 gearbox i was aiming for; and perhaps in not using 9mm wheels rather than the 8.5mm. I deliberately went for the smaller ones because I thought given the small size of the engine, they would be easier for me to accomodate under the footplate.

It is possible that I might try a chassis using the 9mm wheels, and find some willing person to mill me a gearbox for a price to my spec.

I already have an idea what I would do with this little chassis...! ;)

 

I will send you a private message later :)

 

I wouldnt get too dissapointed about the 70:1 gearbox ratio though, an good example is Marks engines usually have only 30:1 and they run nice and slowly, my pannier tank has around 40:1 and again it runs really well. I personally would think 70:1 for a tank engine would be a little too much.

 

I would think the only way to get a gearbox with a ratio like that in 2mm would be to opt for smaller gears like the 0.2 MOD ones I am using for the narrow gauge chassis I am building (linky thing) and would be possible if you were insistant!

 

M. :)

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Well 30:1 is what I'm "reduced" to now!! :lol:

This little beast is an important engine for the layout though as its the branch loco, and will be doing most of the donkey work - its little wheels and short wheelbase should also pass through my rather messy pointwork ok! :P

 

I've been following your little NG shunter with interest, and I know that when you do decide to put your mind to scratchbuilding we will see something interesting for sure! B)

 

Chris

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I'm following this discussion with interest - though I'm still waiting for the release of the 2mm Association pannier chassis as the basis of my first locomotive.

 

I assume you are using one of the Nigel Lawton motors, which have the advantage of being much smaller (and cheaper) than their competitors, but the disadvantage of running much faster, so probably need higher gearing. Using Richard Benn's calculator from http://www.festiveroad.net/rail/software.htm I get the following:

motor speed 30,000 rpm (based on no-load speed for the micromotor)

gear reduction 70:1

driving wheel 8.5mm

actual speed 11.44 metres/minute

which at 2mm to the foot equates to 65 mph.

 

So at least in theory the desired reduction of 70:1 looks correct to me. Conversely the various Faulhaber motors which seem to be widely recommended have no-load speeds of about 15,000 to 20,000 rpm, which would seem to fit the more normal reduction of 30:1 to 40:1.

 

 

As another data point for the discussion, I heard that the 2mm chassis planned for the Ixion Manor is to use about 20:1 reduction gearing - which suggests to me that the Ixion motor must be unusually slow-running.

 

David

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Thanks for that info David.

I'm not sure I could fit a Faulhaber, even though I agree with your reasoning?

Anyway, I'll find out soon enough now-

Look out for a little 0-6-0T racing about the place...

:blink:

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  • RMweb Gold

Motor stats can be tricky things. What you really need to design it is the curves showing power, torque and applied voltage. No-load speed may be high but if a normal load brings it right down 70:1 could be too high. When yours is well run in see how slow and fast it will run on pure DC that will indicate whether the gearing is working. If you can achieve the range of speeds you want between 1 and 12v brilliant if between 3 and 10v fine if its all down btween 2 and 5v gearing is too high. ( Unless you are using a 6v motor of course)

 

Don

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