Saddle tank (Part 1)
A little more progress on providing some motive power. Some time ago I bought the Dean Sidings resin body for a 1701 saddle tank, which is intended to fit on the Farish 57xx pannier chassis. There was already a kit available from the 2mm Association to convert that chassis to 2mm standards, but it had a poor reputation. There was an etched chassis replacement intended for release "sometime soon", so I decided to build the body and procrastinate until the chassis kit arrived.
The 1702 body kit was straightforward to assemble. As I recall there only a few minor problems -
the instructions specified wrong drill size for one of the holes
toolbox is too large to fit comfortably between the footplate and tanks
I have left off a few of the final fittings - eg steps - until I can see how well the body fits onto the etched underframe. It's probably going to be too light - there's a couple of whitemetal weights to insert into the tanks, but I intend to add as much lead as possible to increase the weight.
Unfortunately the paint job was poor, even by my modest standards, so it has subsequently been stripped and repainted, with some improvement in quality. Initially I have left the handrails as bare brass wire, as the ones in photograph I was using as reference appeared to be brass (it was a photograph of a model, but I have yet to find a colour photograph of GWR tank loco in pre 1910 livery). Subsequent photographs, also of models (probably including the same model from a different angle) suggested they were painted - green along the side, not sure about the front but I assume black. For the present I am invoking rule 1 that they look much nicer to me in brass, but I would like to find the correct scheme and attempt to follow it. Perhaps another argument in favour of getting a copy of Great Western Way, as none of the references I have consulted seem to cover this point.
I am a little mystified by the provided fireman - his shovel bears little resemblance to the usual GWR shape and his stance looks more suited to paddling a dragon boat (Chinese Year of the Dragon?).
The long-awaited Association etches were released about three weeks ago, so a cheque was dispatched to Shop 3, an exchange of emails followed to resolve problems with some of the out-of-stock items, and most of the ordered items arrived shortly afterwards.
On the right is the 57xx pannier kit, which is the one to be used here. In the middle is the optional "advanced" version, which puts the motor in the boiler and leaves the cab free - I am going to try this, as the cab is going to be open, and it would be useful not to fill it with a motor. On the left is the etch for the 14xx chassis - to be used in conjunction with another Dean Sidings body for a '517 locomotive, but unfortunately that size of wheels is currently out of stock.
First problem is that the provided parts list was rather too vague for the newcomer at which these kits are aimed.
For example - "Association frame PCB spacer" - but is it the 3-156 which is 6.4mm wide or the 3-157 which is 7.0mm wide (in fact it's the 3-157). Or "2xgear muffs" - but which ones of the four types on offer (the answer depends on which gear option you chose, imperial or metric, among other things...)
There's a rather neat jig which folds up ready to hold the frames in place for soldering. Unfortunately I understand that 3 of the new etches have jigs that don't quite line up right, and have been withdrawn pending the production of replacement jigs, but the 57xx one looks fine.
Feeling bold/foolhardy I then chose to use the advanced frames, so I cut them out of the optional "extra" etch, then tried to fit the frame bushes. Rather too tight to fit, and the holes were much too big for my cutting broaches, but careful use of a small circular file seems to have opened them up correctly. Bushes soldered in place, then the gearbox folded up. Instructions don't make it clear whether the top goes inside or outside, but accompanying photos suggested outside and that seemed to fit slightly better than inside, so that's what I did.
Next step is to gap the PCB spacer, and cut off pieces to solder in the appropriate places. Photograph below illustrates this stage.
I can foresee some interesting questions about the assembly of the gearbox, on which the instructions don't seem very forthcoming. So far as I can see:
1 The shaft on the recommended motor (the new Association flat can) is 1.0 mm in diameter, but the bearings and worm are 1.5 mm in diameter. Adaptors ordered from Nigel Lawton to handle this, but need to work out how to fix the various parts together.
2 The worm gear is about twice the length of the gearbox - apparently it is plastic, and should be easy to cut.
3 The motor shaft is rather shorter than the gearbox, so doesn't appear to reach the bearing at the far end (and there's also the diameter issue from 1 above). If I read the instructions right, the solution is to make a short 1.5mm stub axle (from the various bits of axle steel that I bought to use as alignment aids), and insert it into the worm form the end opposite to the motor (ie from the cab).
David
- 4
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