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Saddle tank (Part 2)


Gingerbread

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Unfortunately progress has been rather slow, so there's not a lot to show in this update. I blame the recent cold weather - it didn't seem like a good idea to attempt such delicate work with frozen fingers...

 

The chassis is now soldered together - not a difficult job, with the jig holding everything together.

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The insertion of worm and motor shaft into the gearbox looks somewhat unclear - the motor shaft is 1mm diameter, the inside diameter of the worm is 1.5mm diameter, and the motor shaft isn't long enough to reach the far side of the gearbox. My understanding of the solution is to use Nigel Lawton 1.0mm -> 1.5mm adaptor on the motor shaft, plus a stub axle of 1.5mm axle steel. A rough sketch of the scheme is shown below:

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Closer examination confirms my fears that the gears and muffs aren't compatible. This arose mainly from the "Out of Stock" situation with my originally selected gears (64DP), and substituting Metric O4 gears meant the selected muffs needed changing too, which somehow got lost in communications. So another order will shortly be sent to shop 3, and I also need to check if the 10.5mm wheels are now available for the 517, and see what else I should add to the order (maybe the Quartering Tool?).

 

I had hoped to obtain some copper and steel paint to improve the appearance of the body, but couldn't find any on my recent trip to Watford Finescale Exhibition. Similarly I hoped for some mahogany paint for the coach bolections/droplights, but will have to continue experimenting with various alternatives.

 

However, I did obtain the Dean Sidings body kit for the 517.

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I have made a start on the next project - the jig has been built and the bushes soldered into the side frames.

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Checking the body against the frames raises a problem - the frames are about 2mm too long to fit.

 

The 517 body is too small for the Dapol chassis (necessitating some radical surgery to the Dapol chassis), and the Dapol body is reported to be rather small for the Association chassis (potentially too cramped for the Faulhaber motor which is widely preferred by members) - adding the two together suggests 517 body too small for Association chassis...

 

One option would be to cut off the resin buffer beams from the body, and rely instead on the etched buffer beams from the chassis kit.

 

The Association chassis kit is designed for motor in cab, which I would prefer to avoid if possible, so I intend trying to fit a 6mm Nigel Lawton micro-motor into the boiler.

 

Main problem with the 517 body kit is the lack of any gap in the tanks for doorway into the cab. Understandable that cutting such a hole would substantially weaken the kit with a half-cab loco (and expose the motor in the cab to view), but I think it needs to be done.

 

Having reviewed the articles in issues 74 and 75 of the GWR Journal, I think that I can "sort of" justify the 517 in my area based on the allocation of four to Wellington in 1914. I think they mainly worked on the Much Wenlock branch, but I know they occasionally worked to Crewe in later years.

 

Studying the accompanying range of pictures suggests that the Belpaire firebox on the kit needs backdating to a round-topped one, and probably there should be a spectacle plate at the rear. However, the 517s did vary substantially between individuals, and changed over the years, so there are plenty of alternatives available.

 

David

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The first thing will be to butcher away those 'boiler bands', they are huge! I've posted an order for gear muffs today and have thought about starting to build the tender for the next locomotive. I'm quite happy waiting patiently for the results of these builds because I'm still undecided about the resin body kits.

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Richard

I'm not sure it's the first thing to attack, as other problems are more accessible, but I agree that the boiler bands need to be removed (or at least reduced in size to "almost imperceptible").

Another change I intend to make in the construction of the 517 is to replace the cast handrails with home-made ones - I think I have some spare handrail knobs, so it should be fairly easy to make my own (and I think there should also be a couple of rails on either side of the non-existent doors). This was described as "an experiment that didn't quite work out", and conventional wire/knobs were included with the saddle tank kit (and worked quite well, though it was difficult to get the right shape for the curve across the front in that case).

For somebody with your metalworking skills (and equipment) I think making these models in brass would be a better solution - amongst other advantages, it would help with the weight (lack-of) problem. For my ability level, I think these resin kits are worth trying, but they do ensure that I aspire to better things one day...

 

David

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Hi David, very interesting to read this and see the Dean Sidings 517. It does look like it needs a good deal of work, but it sounds like you have it worked out. Will be very interesting to see this develop.

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Mikkel

 

Thanks for your comments.

 

The situation with the 517 body kit reminds me of Nigel Ashton's 48xx/14xx article in the December 2006 edition of the 2mm Association Magazine. He started with the Langley kit, and gradually discarded the bits that he disliked, replacing them with scratchbuilt versions. In the end, all that remained of the original kit was tank fillers, toolboxes and buffers...

 

I don't think my conversion will be so radical, but it certainly needs some work, and any replacements of resin by brass will help the weight (lack of) problem that I foresee for this loco.

 

David

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David,

 

I looked at the 517 kit on the Dean Sidings stand at Leamington. I decided that it would need far to much work to be a viable option for me. As I saw it, for me, I would need to remove the whole of the cab / bunker assembly, remove the belpair firebox, give some attention to the boiler bands, remove and replace the boiler fittings with turned brass items, and probably replace the trailing wheel axlebox casting.

 

For this amount of work, I felt that I really couldn't justify the price tag (I think it was getting on for £40).

 

I will however watch with eager anticipation to see how you get on with your model, and look forward to seeing the completed model (I might then revise my opinion of the kit - don't get me wrong I think that for anyone who wants a 517 as something different to the 48xx/14xx the kit would be a good starting point, but for me it offered too much work and I think I would rather try to scratchbuild).

 

I do think that the 1701 class would be a better option for me, and I look forward to seeing your progress with that one too.

 

Ian

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Ian

 

I can't disagree with anything that you have said there. I was expecting something rather closer to the 1701 saddle tank in quality, but when I compared the model to the prototype its shortcomings became apparent.

 

I don't have the confidence/skills/tools to tackle scratchbuilding myself, though I hope that will change eventually. Although somewhat expensive (as you say, it's nearly £40 in price), I hope this will provide a reasonable basis that can be fairly easily hacked into something better.

 

Some of the castings look OK to me - the dome, which is part of the main body casting, looks good, as do the toolboxes, and the fireman's shovel looks a bit closer to GWR standards than the 1701 fireman's shovel. Others look less good - the handrails look much too fragile, the buffers rather anaemic (both easy to replace), and the outside frames for the rear wheels can be omitted (many 517s had inside frames). The chimney also doesn't look totally convincing, but I haven't decided yet whether/how to replace it.

 

I intend to build a second 1701 kit - also acquired at Watford - but as a different variant. I am hoping to try the alternative 2mm chassis from Alan Smith (solid brass, rather than etched), but latest news is that it may be cancelled because it has "missed the boat".

 

David

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David,

 

The Metro Tank that I am attempting to build is my first foray into scratchbuilding in metal. Many, many years ago I knocked up a GWR 39xx (2-6-2) to fit on an old Hornby Jinty chassis in plastic, I thought it was quite passable (I was a teenager at the time).

 

I have scratchbuilt wagons in plastic though, and I managed to make a reasonable 4 wheel PBV in card/gummed paper (2mm scale), but that got lost a long while ago.

 

One thing I will say about metalworking in 2mm is that because the parts are pretty small, the waste when a part goes wrong doesn't break the bank.

 

I have part turned the dome and safety valve for my Metro, using files and a drill (I don't possess a lathe), although my brother is an engineer so I ought to ask him to knock me some parts up at work really :-)

 

I am hoping to build a 1501 saddle tank at some point a la John Birkett-Smith

(http://www.small-but-perfectly-formed.blogspot.com/2009/08/locomotives.html). Kindly helped by Jerry Clifford donating a 57xx Farish body, I just need the time.

 

Ian

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Ian

 

I have to admit I did something similar in the distant past too, in my N gauge days - I think mine was a Minitrix 0-6-0 to which I added various bits of plastic to create an imitation of a 45xx small prairie, though as I recall clearance problems left it looking rather obese, and not very much like the prototype.

 

The John Birkitt-Smith approach does have its attractions - filing away at a large lump of metal, though time-consuming, is likely to help with the weight (lack-of) problems which I expect my resin kit based approach to suffer.

 

Your suggestion of drill plus file sounds as if it should work for turning a replacement chimney for the 517, so I will look around for a suitable piece of brass and give it a try.

 

David

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David,

 

I bought a lcouple of engths of 1/4" round bar from Eileen's Emporium - I bought one brass and one copper (for the chimney). I haven't tried turning the chimney yet. It takes a while but I think acceptable results are possible. The only difficulty will be shaping the base of the parts to fit snuggly on the boiler barrel of smokebox - with a lathe you would normally fly-cut these.

 

Ian

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Ian

 

Thanks for your latest blog article - I guessed when I read it that it was largely aimed at me :)

 

I hope to pick up some suitable brass rod this weekend and have a try next week - the next instalment of my blog will relate how it has turned out (unless I get distracted onto describing coach-building and lining).

 

I agree that painted cast domes fall short of the highly polished finish of the era that we are modelling, so I hope I can produce something better, in a similar way to what you have done.

 

David

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David,

 

It wasn't aimed at you in particular, it just seemed timely - I had already started turning parts for the Metro (it takes a little time so I had been unable to finish the parts in one evening - I was doing the turning in the kitchen with the vice attached to an old chair that I use for all manner of things, and the process isn't the quietest operation :-) ).

 

Since our discussion on here had gone along the lines of replacing parts on the 517 I thought it would be useful to put a blog together to hopefully describe how I made the turnings for my loco.

 

I'm not entirely satisfied with my safety valve so I think another attempt is in order. I hope you manage to produce some useful parts, it really is quite satisfying to see something that you have made yourself from a lump of metal :-)

 

Ian

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