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You've been framed - improving the Hornby King


Barry Ten

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The Hornby King is not that bad a model, really - it looks the part from most angles, has some very fine detail, and runs superbly. Perhaps some manufacturer will announce a new version, but for the time being the Hornby one is what we've got to work with. The big let-down, for my money, is in the side-on view, which is particularly an issue with my layout set at eye-level. The excessive gap between the front frames and the bogie is distracting, and an ugly throw-back to the tender-drive model of the 70s.

 

Fortunately, the cast frame detail on the Hornby model is very shallow, which suggested to me that a simple solution would be to add a couple of cosmetic frame extensions from plastikard. After some careful measurement using my new best mate among modelling tools - a pair of digital calipers - I cut a batch of frames for my two Kings. Each frame was made from a basic rectangle of plastic of dimensions 12 x 50mm.

 

After checking that all clearances were satisfactory for my layout, I glued the frames in place and added selective detail from wire and plastikard and PVA rivets. The idea is to give an impression of detail when the model is painted and weathered, not to replicate every pipe and rivet. If you want that, buy a Mitchell kit and book a year off work.

 

Here's the "before" shot - my GWR example:

 

blogentry-6720-0-44618500-1330641639_thumb.jpg

 

My BR King with frames in place. The all-important "weight" of the loco at the front-end has been restored, to my eye, and depending on layout clearances you could reduce the gap between frame and bogie even more.

 

blogentry-6720-0-97383400-1330641664_thumb.jpg

 

And a close-up of the frames:

 

blogentry-6720-0-81499800-1330641702_thumb.jpg

 

I used relatively thin plastikard to aid the cutting and shaping but for a model likely to receive a lot of handling, thicker grade could be used. It occurs to me that one of the smaller manufacturers could do a useful King detailing kit with something similar in etched brass and white metal, and maybe include a proper reversing lever on the same etch.

 

Cheers!

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Good job. A real hang-up of mine too! My current fad is to chop sections of the black close-cell foam you get in Heljan stock boxes and fit this between the frames so the top of the bogie presses just slightly on it. It acts as a bit of a spring as well as filling in the gaps that you can't do with plasticard. I've found it works amazingly well on Hornby Bulleids which suffer in a similar way to your King - it even helps the loco turn into corners better.

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  • RMweb Gold

You're right about the Bulleids - I haven't noticed the frame gap so much but they do not ease into corners at all well. I wonder if it's because there's so much slack in the sprung rear axle that they are effectively very long 4-4-2-2s?

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  • RMweb Gold

That makes a world of difference Al. I like the pipework etc you've added too. You have a superb eye for taking RTR models and making them into something really special.

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  • RMweb Gold

Very nice and as you mentioned the Mitchell kit I've often wondered how many of them actually run on layouts.Having said that I really wish Hornby had another look at this model.

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