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Moving to P4 (Post 17 (2nd Cambrian Wagon Complete))


Knuckles

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The cattle wagon is Dapol and the other Cambrian, I haven't made a Cooper Craft kit yet, any good?

New update and a new wagon. Construction was almost the same as before. I learnt a lesson from the previous truck that has led to easier and more accurate placement of the W iron etches. On the last truck they might be too far to one side by half a mm or so, it runs great with the shunting finger and gravity roll but in a train with energies bing pulled forward it might be a problem - will see when it comes to it, if there is a problem then I will have to scrape the etches off, clean the serfaces and have another go.

This is the new truck.

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This time I didn't bother doubling up the solebar thickness (is it a solebar?) I just cut the W iron and axle boxes off and left that 'V hanger thingummy' for the brakes. Thus.

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After fitting both sides by some happy reason I cannot name the etches got themselves comfortable.

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Being a shorter wheelbase than the last one, I encountered a problem. The springs were in the way of the buffer beam.

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This was easily remidied by bending one side of the springs only. On the last truck I bent both sides to retain them as they kept escaping, but doing one side here workes great.

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Rather than filing off the tabs and then gluing plastic card for the running height on the wagon floor. I this time retained the tabs and just glued a peice of plastic card inside becasue the tabs were about the same height. Plastic was the same thickness as the last truck, so I think 1mm.

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Almost finished with no weight, sadly this time I haven't managed to fit sprung buffers due to there now being almost no room, I even cut the springs in half but still no room, so I have had to just glue them solid. :( For those that are in the know (not me!) will it make a difference operationally? Same for the Slaters couplings, I haven't sprung them this time but super glued them. I'm only used to fat tension locks being the buffer so I don't know, I'd like to have everything sprung if possible. More fun that way too.

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Lead added, weighs about the same as the other, roughly 32 grams. Going to try to make 30-40 grams a standard becasue that seems managable. Will that difference between weights make a difference? I'd like to do the S4 Digest's reccomendation of 50Grams per wagon but unless they have loads this I don't think is realistic unless it's a white metal kit. Suggestions?

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Finished! The bottom of the W iron I haven't folded up because the axle box looked too low. I don't think this is an RCH wagon so that may be the reason. It'll do. The curved ends ads loads of character I think.

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Been having a play with my cobbled up shunters pole and that turnout (that still needs some form of blade joining)

No tension

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tension

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You may also notice I have added some white metal vacuum brakes to the cattle wagon from Wizard Models / 51L - Universal type. Unsure if they are prototypically correct but I'm not to bothered, they look miles better than Dapol's moulded 'triangle'

Together.

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Happy days. :) The next wagon I do will feature the use of Paletine Models baseplates. castleb suggested them, and I think yes is my answer. I'll be interested to see how they go.

You bored of wagons yet!? 8-)

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Bill's sprung bogies for wagons and coaches are excellent. Rather than leave the springs as you have, why not fold up the ends ¬ and cut back. Trust me they will work loose - eventually. Give yourself a mm outside the end of the bogie before bending. I have an 8f that uses a similar system (GA) and I always have to check it because I didn't fold the springs back so that they don't fall out.

 

Have you managed to set the heights ok now?

 

Mike

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The buffer height on this wagon matches that of the other. I used the S4 multigauge to check, also since removing a little bit of weight on the cattle wagon it is almost inline with the other two now. I'd guess less than half a mm difference. Seems I had a wee bit too much weight for the springs.

 

Any idea where I can get spare spring from or the material it's made from? I know it's guitar string but the metal type.

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The buffer height on this wagon matches that of the other. I used the S4 multigauge to check, also since removing a little bit of weight on the cattle wagon it is almost inline with the other two now. I'd guess less than half a mm difference. Seems I had a wee bit too much weight for the springs.

 

Any idea where I can get spare spring from or the material it's made from? I know it's guitar string but the metal type.

 

Ernie Ball plain steel from Strings Direct, from .10 to .12 usually.

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  • RMweb Gold

Looking good, the springing does make a difference to the running, doesn't it?

 

The only problem I sometimes find with the Bill Bedford units is that it doesn't always leave much room for the spigot of a sprung buffer!..

 

As regards increasing the weight, I'd definitely recommend that. With a open wagon, what I've done (admittedly with BR 16t minerals), is to make up a new floor from sheet lead and epoxy it to the rest of the plastic wagon components.

 

With a wooden bodied wagon, you could probably get away with scribing planks in the flat lead (but do make sure it's really, really flat before fitting!).

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I can't really test the running to be honest, all I have is that meter of C&L flexi and that point. However, i haven't coupled the three together and ran them on the meter so I'll do that and see how it is.

 

can you get away without sprung buffers? I can't fit them on this 15" wagon so I don't know if it is going to be a bane later on.

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  • RMweb Gold

I guess it depends on how much shunting you are planning to do... they certainly help keep propelled rafts of wagon stable, but you could always couple the non-sprung wagon to one fitted with sprung buffers.

 

Then again, a fair few of my wagons aren't fitted with sprung buffers, doesn't normally seem to bother 'em!

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What you think of this?

 

Slaters 3 links, al but one truck sprung ( and 1 buffer on the cattle wagon is solid)

 

The shunting finger pushes them and they seem to go round very happily, on what, a 12-15 inch radius curve!?

Ok it isn't a locomotive, but they are sailing around quite happily. Same goes foe that Hymek I converted, that went round a curve almost as tight.

 

I doubt a pacific would (I want to run them) but this is really making me doubt the need for a 4 foot radius curve. Any ideas here? It has to be said that the designs I'm making only have curves off the scenic area for the most part, so I'm not to bothered about how it looks, just a case of will things run well.

 

?

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I've since managed to upp the weight to 40 grams on the small truck and will do the same to the other...

What you think of this?

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Slaters 3 links, al but one truck sprung ( and 1 buffer on the cattle wagon is solid)

 

The shunting finger pushes them and they seem to go round very happily, on what, a 12-15 inch radius curve!?

Ok it isn't a locomotive, but they are sailing around quite happily. Same goes foe that Hymek I converted, that went round a curve almost as tight.

 

I doubt a pacific would (I want to run them) but this is really making me doubt the need for a 4 foot radius curve. Any ideas here? It has to be said that the designs I'm making only have curves off the scenic area for the most part, so I'm not to bothered about how it looks, just a case of will things run well.

 

?

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