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Slaters 7mm Johnson 1P build (it had to be done! )

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A bit of LMS fun on GWR metals........

Having built them all, it was time to test them and the trackwork which has been left `fallow` for a couple of years.   All my locos have Digitrains sound files and the mooing is the Lemaco point motors I have used as my units are only 21/2 inches deep and they are the lowest in height I could think of.......              

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Gladiator models LMS 2P 0-4-4 Lemon/Stanier tank loco. LAST LMS LOCO BUILD

This completes my 14month back -to back LMS loco kit build project.       I discovered that the Canon 1833 motor is intolerant to any hint of feedback so I track tested with pure DC power which does not give the very `fine` motor control I will eventually achieve once she is fitted with the superior Zimo MX645 decoder.               Panic set in over the possible demise of 7mm loco kits now that the epoc of quality 7mm RTR has arrived..................................  

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A Ravenscal L&Y/LMS Pug kit has left the Paint Shop

Finally completed today and will go on to be fully run in before converting to DCC. She is very heavy ( a brick and a half)         Far too clean but will remain so until I investigate subtle weathering techniques.                         Something to sing along to...................................................   https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T8UVguWGtuQ

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A Ravenscal L&Y/LMS Pug kit ( available at Springside Models) Build Complete.

She is now ready for the paint shop but I will need daylight for spraying so I will delay that for warmer weather.   She was `run in` today which showed her bouncing up and down on her front axle springing. So, I added `liquid lead` and sheet lead to her front end to balance her ride qualities.                 This evening I tested her fine movement with an AMR controller. Despite being a 37 year old kit with an open frame motor of `yesteryear` I`m quite pleased. She should be e

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Gladiator models LMS 2P 0-4-4 Lemon/Stanier tank loco. The chassis pt 3

The chassis has now left the paint shop and apart from the fitting of balance weights has been re-assembled.     These days I have settled for Clostermanns black etch primer for all brass and nickel silver with chemical blackening to wheels, coupling rods and axles.         Now that Mashima motors have gone into retirement I have discovered Branchlines gearboxes and Canon 1833 motors a more than suitable quality alternative for around fifty quid.  

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Gladiator models LMS 2P 0-4-4 Lemon/Stanier tank loco. The Body pt 2

Despite the kits shorcomings I have now completed the superstructure replacing or adding parts from either Laurie Griffin or Peter Roles.   I `m generally pleased with the outcome and also decided to model her as a push-pull variant.   The boiler stays have not been fettled to fit yet..........................................................................................              

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Gladiator models LMS 2P 0-4-4 Lemon/Stanier tank loco. The chassis pt1.

This is the last of my MR/ LMS loco kit builds.   I bought this kit last December and started it this month.   It has`nt been the easiest of builds and this has been a combination of my own attitude to some of the kit`s idiosyncrasies and a subsequent dip in my assembly skills perhaps.   This is a kit that you will definitely need an 80watt soldering iron as it has thick nickel silver chassis etches and thick brass etches for the bodywork.   There is no provision for any chassis compensa

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Gladiator models LMS 2P 0-4-4 Lemon/Stanier tank loco. The Body pt1.

I particularly like all the half etched holes in the body sides that make riveting that much easier. Sadly none are provided for the front and rear cab so I added these myself using photos.       I`ll get all the negatives of this kit out of the way in one go....................................................   The smokebox, boiler and firebox are dimensionally wrong. I struggled to assemble them as accurately as I would have liked and very nearly binned the whole project.......   O

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Slaters Johnson 1F 0-6-0 fitted with Digitrains sound file

Unfortunately the only surviving Johnson 1F tank loco is in storage with ownership legalities so I have decided to settle with Digitrains J94 sound file.   Sound decoder is a Zimo MX 645.   I`m quite pleased with the results................................................................          

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Slaters Johnson 1F 0-6-0 open cab. Blacking up a black chassis.

The built in fold-up hornblocks needed to be free from paint and so as with the 1P chassis I have continued with a combination of Birchwood Casey chemical blackening and Clostermans black etch primer rattle can.     A secondary advantage is also avoiding shiney axles , bearings, wheelrims and coupling rods. All the steel parts are coated in Electrofix to avoid rust.   Then its just a case of slowly putting it all back together again. There are some rattle can paints that do not swamp all

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Slaters Johnson 1F 0-6-0 open cab. Completing the chassis

I`ve virtually completed the superstructure and just have the front and rear steps to fit and the cab backplate to assemble.     Before all that it is time to complete the chassis. I messed up with the coupling rod and ended up with a badly binding mechanism and this was solved by opening the front axle rod to an oval hole .     So, before moving forward with it ,wheels and motor were set up to day for a thorough test of build so far...................     The plan for this week

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Slaters Johnson 1F 0-6-0 open cab

I think I should have rested longer before starting another kit, but I sold an old favourite model to pay for this one so I felt obliged.   Anyhow, my Johnson 1P tank loco needed a mate so I chose a plain old shunter.   Although this is an earlier kit from Slaters (1984) it was more challenging than the 1P (1985)   The coupling rods are a steel etched fret and is more challenging to solder .         But as ever I start with the coupling rods.         And then the fold up chas

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Slaters Johnson 1P The finished Article

Well here it is....... started in March and finished last evening with the fitting of the sandpipes and etched number plates.....   I`m fairly pleased with the cab details now they have been painted up and will leave the roof loose until suitable figures are prepared........                                     She runs superbly and will now go on extensive analogue running before being wired for DCC sound....  

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Slaters Johnson 1P The Intermediate Livery !

]As some of you will already know, some recently produced HMRS 4mm and 7mm pressfix transfers have a problem. The paper or the adhesive is wrong and in my recent purchase of 4mm red lining, I couldn`t soak off the backing paper without the lining pulling away from the model despite experimenting with letrosol and Transfix etc.   So when it came to dressing the 1P in her intermediate lining I had to use my Bob Moore`s lining pen for the first time ( at least on a model steam locomotive).   Ac

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Slaters Johnson 1P Construction Complete

Construction of this enjoyable kit is now done.   A lot of the detailing is not attached yet as I intend to paint them all first.   The kit provides both brass etch and plastic strip boiler bands which obviously fit in the milled grooved boiler, I hav`nt decided which to use yet.   Time to go for a longish lay down before I start the priming and painting journey.   Thanks for all the likes, etc, etc.              

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Slaters Johnson 1P Chassis completed

Now that the motor/chassis fits well to the superstructure, it has been time to complete the chassis build.   No real issues here. I could only use two of the supplied sandbox castings, for the leading pair, as the kit really only caters for the very early loco version.     I used a dental burr to fabricate a hole for the sprung buffer shanks.     I sourced a more accurate pair for the trailing boxes   The only other addition to the chassis kit was for a better representation brake

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Slaters Johnson 1P Working on a body

The curve in the roof is not too severe so it has been fairly easy to bend to shape and fashion a removeable set up......       The prototype has wooden buffers sandwiched between steel buffer plates. The kit supplies 20thou plasticard. I would have liked wood but didn`t have anything suitable to hand, so added extra thickness to mine and used my favourite `Gorrilla` to assemble it all....... I hope it is robust enough. I then used 100deg low melt to solder the rear plate to the chassi

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Slaters Johnson 1P The Cab has Arrived

Needed to give some thought as to how much cab detailing is to be fixed into place before the painting stage, as there will be difficulty in painting individual details once the cab sides and back are assembled.   The cab floor will need to be glued in place before painting as it is impossible to drop it in past the narrower cab sides. The kit provides some very thin ply which I was concerned would warp during the scrubbing and cleaning preparation.   So I first made a plasticard test piece

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Slaters Johnson 1P. Getting a Cab.

The cab fittings are all lost wax but of varying quality.     Some I have put to use......       These I have replaced from the HobbyDevelopment range.         The instructions for the kit have a hand drawing of a 1P cab details arrangement. I based mine on photographs. What I am after is a `busy` looking cab as the cab sides are quite open and the view of the controls is fairly prominent.       More still to be done..........

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Slaters Johnson 1P boiler build (4)

Before final fixing in place of the boiler there have been some extra work needed. This has comprised making a frame for push-pull fittings obtained from Laurie Griffin, replacing the Johnson whistle with a better example, and fettling a better sanding gear.........   The kit provides very basic sanding gear parts..........     So I fettled my own version based on photo evidence........               The push- pull frame I made from some spare brass sheet...........    

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Slaters Johnson 1P boiler build (3)

I`m impressed with the fit accuracy of the parts, but there is not much lee way when it comes to tidying up the edges of individual parts. I`m finding that with the slightest of tidying up you can easily make some parts a tad too small.   I ended up with todays work preferring to make my own frame extensions to give more generous proportions and to add some rivets that are not catered for in the kit..............         As you can see, I should`nt have bothered to tidy the sides of the

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