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First attempts with a laser-cutter


Fen End Pit

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I've joined an organisation in Cambridge called 'Makespace' who are setting up a public access 'hackspace' in Cambridge. These organisation seem to be springing up in quite a few large cities (see http://hackerspaces.org/wiki/United_Kingdom ) and are intended for people who want to build things to share the cost of owning and running tools. So for the price of a gym membership (and anyone who tells me that would do me more good is probably on the wrong forum) I can have access to tools which I would never have been able to justify buying myself.

 

Well today Makespace took delivery of a seriously good tool - a 60W laser cutter with a bed size of 600x900mm. I went along to see it commissioned and receive some training on how to use it. As a test I took along a small drawing of a wall in TurboCAD and we downloaded it and cut it on an odd bit of luminous acrylic left over from something else.

 

In its natural state it hasn't photographed very well but I am seriously impressed by it as a first attempt. The wall took just over 5 minutes to print and the software allows me to draw the different levels in different colours and then control the laser power and speed so that one colour ends up as engraving and another as cuts.

 

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When I got home I thought I'd have an experiment and see how it might look painted. The first attempt was done by painting the wall with an matt enamel mortar colour and then trying to dry brush on a brick colour once it was dry.

 

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The second attempt was painting a brick colour in enamel and then washing over with an acrylic mortar colour and washing it off.

 

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So now I have to order some suitable material to cut and workout the best method to draw things up. I'd like advice from anyone who has experience on producing artwork for buildings. Specifically, what is the best way to deal with the corner joins? I have demonstrated that I can put a tiny cut which 'takes the mortar course around the corner' but am I just best to do this and us a butt joint? I can see some people have actually cut around the individual bricks at the end of the wall to produce a kind of dove-tail joint, does this really work?

 

Also how do people find using thin MDF versus using one of the laser cutable plastics? I know I can't use plasticard as it gives off chlorine gas when it is burned.

 

I'm must confess I'm rather excited about the possibilities of this bit of equipment.

 

David

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Painting method no 2!

 

This sample piece does look very good indeed; doesn't it?

 

Whilst I can hardly say I have done any of this, I would think the technique for corners would be a chamfer?  I don't know whether the laser cutter can be rotated to cut a chamfer or whether you will need to file this on by hand afterwards (in which case you will want to make the final bricks a tad long for safety).

 

You will probably find it worth getting hold of some building construction text books.  If you can get some "Mitchells Building Construction" from the 1930s, - 70's these would best (the modern ones less so).  They contain numerous detailed drawings of how arches are formed, the correct coursing of bricks, window detailing etc etc - invaluable to get building construction details right.

 

A technical colleage library would be best; or drop me a PM.

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  • RMweb Gold

I would think the technique for corners would be a chamfer?  I don't know whether the laser cutter can be rotated to cut a chamfer or whether you will need to file this on by hand afterwards

Unfortunate you can only cut straight down into the material and not at an angle. If I was going to mitre the corners then I'd have to find a way to accurately file/mill off the edge to 45 degrees.

 

Most of the buildings I'm hoping to construct will be based on prototypes so I'll try to copy the original. The wall I cut was based on the GERS drawing of the base of Thaxted water tower and the drawing was anotated to say which bonds were used. Then it was a case of trying to guess how the brickie would have dealt with the closures based on the distances between the corners!

 

Do we still have techincal colleges anywhere? I thought they had all been turned into Mac-ademies.

 

David

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Looks very good and thanks for the hackerspace link - I never knew such places existed and I've found one near me so might give it a try.

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Overall effect of your laser cut brickwork looks fantastic.

Do you know which plastics are suitable for this application ?.

Regards Snitzl

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  • RMweb Gold

This is amazing! So many possibilities, it certainly will make scratch building easier if all you have to do is design the side on a programme and print it off!

 

Regards,

 

Nick

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The brickwork is excellent; and excellently painted, too.

 

Also, another thanks for posting the hackerspace link. I've been reading up on the one in Liverpool and I may well go down there to have a look round in the next few weeks. Coincidentally, it turned out that one of my work colleagues is actually a regular attender there and his photo is on their website

 

Jim

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This is very impressive! good work and thanks for the link for hackspace, I too didn't know of there existance but have found one nearish to me and will give it a try..

T.

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What brand of cutting machine is this?  I have started looking for a machine to buy, and it would be nice to know brands that have been used for railway modelling.  It would be interesting to know which brands anyone has used.

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  • RMweb Gold

Thanks for the link to hackerspace, I see they are in Denmark as well, I will be paying them a visit soon

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Nice work! I am also experimenting with a laser cutter - the beam cuts 0.1mm I think and my mortar lines appear much finer than yours and so harder to paint. Is there any way to get 0.2mm etches in a single laser pass?

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