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Rolling Chassis!

Fen End Pit

Entry posted by Fen End Pit

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After a heavy week the J39 now has a rolling chassis.

 

Jigging up the horn guides was 'fun' because the design of hornblock means that there is nothing to prevent it from going outwards until you fit the wheels. As most jigs use a spring to keep anything in place while you solder this doesn't work. In the end I had to use the holes in the ends of the brass horn guide to hold a temporary wire through the little tab soldered on the hornblock for springing.

 

Wheels were fitted thanks to the loan of the GW models wheel quartering jig (thanks Brian) and it rolls along quite nicely. I had to slightly open the crankpin holes to get just the little working clearance but this was not by much. I suspect one of the hornguides isn't exactly vertical as there is a slight bind in the chassis when rolled with no weight on it. This seems to be as it has a tight spot when the bearings are running at the bottom of the hornguides which disappears when the chassis is weighted to run with them in the middle.

 

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At this point I've departed from the instructions as I want to try and get the loco to move prior to starting to play with inside motion etc. As the drive is going to be via a universal joint from the tender I thought I'd start with the tender chassis. I have to say that this isn't quite as well thought out as the loco in my view. In particular I don't like the way that you can't remove the wheels. To fix this I've slotted the bearing holes and will put a little keeper plate on once the wheels are in place.

 

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4 Comments

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jwealleans

Enjoying following this and looking forward to seeing how you set up the UJs and gearbox, David. I have a similar setup in mind for a much less exalted kit, but I hqven??t strqted gathering up bits yet:

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Dave Holt

Hi, Fen End,

 

Nice to see this progressing. Please keep us informed.

 

I did suggest a way of ovecoming the problem of using jig-axles in this type of axlebox with a clarification following a comment from Horsetan. Did you try this at all? Might be worth a thought for any future Bradwell chassis. If you do, it's important to keep the front and back of each box in the correct orientation but the top temporarily becomes the bottom and the bottom becomes the top but the single flange ends up on the inside, allowing the normal spring arrangement to locate the horn-guides. Afterwards, the boxes are reversed, top over bottom, for fitting onto the wheel-sets.

 

Regards,

 

Dave.

 

 

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Horsetan

That's good going. N2 chassis works on similar principles.

 

Any thoughts about having a go at working inside valve gear, crank axle, etc.? biggrin.gif

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Fen End Pit
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Hi, Fen End,

 

Nice to see this progressing. Please keep us informed.

 

I did suggest a way of ovecoming the problem of using jig-axles in this type of axlebox with a clarification following a comment from Horsetan. Did you try this at all? Might be worth a thought for any future Bradwell chassis. If you do, it's important to keep the front and back of each box in the correct orientation but the top temporarily becomes the bottom and the bottom becomes the top but the single flange ends up on the inside, allowing the normal spring arrangement to locate the horn-guides. Afterwards, the boxes are reversed, top over bottom, for fitting onto the wheel-sets.

 

Regards,

 

Dave.

 

 

Hi Dave

I thought about this, but by the time I'd got to the setting up with jigs I'd soldered on the tabs on the bottom of the hornblocks which forms the basis for the springing. That would mean that turning them over end would have the tab between the top of the hornguide and the hornblock. I felt this would sit the hornblock a bit low in the guide for setting up.

 

David

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