Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

55 Neutral

1 Follower

Profile Information

  • Location
  • Interests
    O gauge & N plus On16.5

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Meatloaf, you are right about the wiring but you only need to insulate the frogs unless you want to keep the slip as a power district, but I think that as you are going to use the auto frog units and will have to take the feeds for them from the central slip feeds you would get shorts if you insulate all rails of the slip. Hope this helps, I have 2 slips and have used the double Tam Valley frog juicers as it is cheaper. regards mike
  2. Ian I have several of the twin motor Heljans and not one draws more than 2amps and most between 0.5 and 1.8amps and have Zimo MX645R decoders. The current draw was measured with a multi meter on DC from a 12v car battery before deciding which decoder to use, the loco run light engine and against a buffer stop to measure the stall current but it is difficult to stall as most locos slip before they stall. I think you will be able to use your EZ unit but you might be disappointed with the control of O gauge locos due mainly to the weight and momentum. I have tried the Hornby elink which I b
  3. Ian, for O gauge you do not want cheap as the cheap ones tend not to have the power for O, I personally have a ROCO Z21 which can be easily upgraded and you are unlikely to need anything else. I have a friend that has an NCE powercab which is very good and can be recommended and is easy to use, and is approximately £100 cheaper than the Z21. You will find DCC a steep learning curve but once you have used it especially with sound it’s a pleasure to use. regards mike
  4. Digitrains do one, it’s a Zimo and as far as I am aware it’s the only decoder that will fit. I had to split the wires from the chip either side of the motor to get the chip in as it has to go in the gearbox cover. I am not sure but I think it is a MX344 but Digitrains will know which one you need. regards mike
  5. I think that they may be of French origin possibly playcraft I remember something similar in KingsX models around 1985/6 but they were complete sets with a wagon and caboose. I use to visit the shop when I had to go to my company’s head office in Hammersmith from Luton on my way home. regards mike
  6. Have you considered the Linx coupling, easy to make and the same both ends, I think it is manly used for O gauge but I have seen it used once about 5 years ago on a OO layout, it was a terminus to fiddle yard set in the Midlands and was mainly tank engines and a couple of diesel shunters. I can remember it as I was impressed with the operation due to the couplings which I had not seen before and asked who’s they were, only to be told that they were home made to a design called Linx by a modeller from Derby. They have been described on RMWEB a couple of times. I have not tried them but a m
  7. I have used both Digitrains and Coastal and have found both very helpful. Your nearest I would think is digitrains in Lincoln who have hands on having been there only used Coastal mail order or at shows. If you go to Lincoln check opening times as I have seen conflicting information due to the pandemic. regards mike
  8. I had to delete the loco and and re input all the functions again as Matt suggested. Iain I use the IPad as the main controller with all my locomotives stored on it and use an android phone for general running sessions with a steam roster plus a diesel roster also I have set up a combined one with a limited number of locos usually 4 steam and 3 diesel all RTR mainly Dapol all with sound but normally I only have one of each type with the sound on as I find any more irritating after about 30 minutes! regards mike
  9. Any chance you can answer my post on the DCC questions re Q1 sounds. Thanks mike 


  10. I have a Zimo sound decoder with a southern Q1 sound file, is it possible to change an individual sound as all the function sound is OK but the exhaust chuffs have gone quiet, about half volume, I have checked CV266 and that has a value of 70 which the sheet that comes with the decoder says is the recommended setting. The sound file is one of Paul Chetters who’s helped me before but I can’t find his email or contact details hence my question here. regards mike
  11. Matt that’s exactly what I was doing and I accidentally moved F6 off the top of the frame, not sure how I did it but can’t put it back. regards mike
  12. I have accidentally moved F6 from the square it was in upto the top control one position so that the F6 is above frame of the border of the function boxes. Can anyone tell me how to move it back to its correct position? I can move any function to any other function positions but the one I accidentally moved does not move but still works and is visible in front of the “Control One’ but looks wrong! Hope that somebody knows how to replace, or do I have to re input the loco. regards mike
  13. RAF96 thanks for your reply, I tried another loco without sound to check the NCE was working and it was so knew that it was OKAY and didn’t need resetting. Although I had asked my friend to try the class 5 on Monday he hadn’t so yesterday I tried it and it was working, so I think that it had got to hot and the chip automatically cut out, which I read could happen on one of the other forums but had forgotten! Thanks again for your help, regards Mike
  14. A friend has a factory fitted Hornby class5, it’s been running ok but the last time it was run it did 5 laps of his layout and then stopped dead the sound was still working but it would not run. I thought it might have cutout so we left it for about 10 minutes and tried to get it to run but it still had the sound working. Has anybody had this happen to a Hornby TTS fitted loco, my friends loco is about 9 months old and has only been run 3 or 4 times with no problem, I thought it best not to take the body off as it is still under warranty. If I get no answer to this problem my friends goin
  15. Thanks Keith, is there a good uk supplier that I could use to purchase the Buck converters, I don’t use online shopping I prefer to deal direct and pay cash (it’s an age thing). I have decided that I am not going to convert any of the other coaches and will run a supply from the one I have already done, I have the miniature 2 pin plugs & sockets that can go under the couplings as they will be out of sight, that’s one advantage of O gauge. Thanks again for your help and time. regards
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.