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drgj

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  1. My instructions didn't look like that. I bought the kit on eBay and the instructions definitely said use G for M59. It must have been an old version. When I first realised the mistake I had made I looked back at the instructions and that is what it said. I have seen several others built the wrong way- even the picture on the Wizard models site has a channeled solebar. Here is one posted on this site. Dave
  2. Have finally finished the stove. I copied the plain sided maroon one from the Paul Bartlett site but painted it in blue. I quite enjoyed building my first full Comet kit but there was a lot more drilling, cutting and filing than I expected. Previously if building a coach I have used brass sides and an rtr coach and just thought it would be nice to build a kit where all is ready made, holes drilled, etc, but this wasn't the case! I started having to force myself to get on withe next fiddly bit. Also the instructions were wrong so Iused the chanelled sole bar instead of plain by mistake. One also feels obliged to solder these kits as well which is a bit of a pain and I only had either a 15w or a massive 65 watt thing with a gigantic tip. The 15w was ok for doing the thin bits like rocking w irons, bake shoes, etc. I had to use the giant iron for the body as the small one didn't have enough oomph. I did not bother soldering the white metal bits as I knew I would melt them! I noticed that the prototype I had chosen had less roof ribs than the Comet plan and for these I used 0.5mm sticky masking tape. I also copied the step configuration- two main ones on each side plus two small lower steps on one side and the long and short on the other. This version didn't have the medium lower step. For paint I used Railmatch black and blue plus some Humbrol to mix the roof colour and for the very light weathering. For weathering I prefer a slightly "dusty" look. To apply the paint I used a Badger airbrush and Iwata compressor. The numbering is pressfix (very fiddly individual numbers) plus some waterslide overhead live wire signs. I couldn't find any stove r transfers. Although I moan I am pleased with the result. Here are some pics
  3. The class 24 really looks the part and the LMS liveried compound is fabulous. The prices are steep for coaches. £100? I thought the blue liveried porthole was very expensive at nearly £70. Dave
  4. I have often wondered if it would be possible to simply fit bearings into the plastic chassis of a kit like this and then use some adjustable length connecting rods. If there wasn't enough space between the frames for gears due to thickness of the parts maybe to simply copy the side frames in brass? Dave
  5. The original style ex Airfix tender drive class 4f is one of the most powerful model locomotives known to mankind. Dave
  6. I like the look of this loco and didn't mind the old version either. I remember when the Jouef class 40 came out and was very excited to get one for my birthday. I really liked it but do remember that it didn't look so good from the front but viewing it at a certain angle plus a bit of imagination cured it! It ran really well, was powerful and quiet (although the worm would occasionally pop off the motor!). How things have moved on! The other thing I remember is that I could buy a Hornby class 25 for a bit more than my weekly paper round pay. Do paper boys get £150 a week now? Dave
  7. I like that a lot. . The battery box supports look good and are those brass nem sockets for couplings? Very neat. I would never have thought of doing that. I have some Parkside nem mounts that I was thinking of using. Dave
  8. Thank Thanks to ralphrob for the excellent pictures.
  9. I have been wondering about the battery regulator (I think that is what it is!). Is this a flat plate with the regulator on and then supported by four angled pieces of wire or two angled pieces of sheet? Thanks Dave
  10. They are probably just the original types. I didn't realise yours were special ones. Have you had a look at the Southern Pride site? They might have something. Dave
  11. I have a thread on building a Comet Stove R going at the moment. The tumble homes on the sides had been formed at an angle and annealing did help to make the job of fixing this easier. i too wouldn't recommend annealing unused material. Dave
  12. This is where I am now. I have the body soldered as in previous pics plus the roof cut to length, etc. The roof is a very good fit so I must have got the body nice and square. Here is the picture of the underframe/ floor assembly. I still have to fit the lower steps and various white metal fittings. I will be using Araldite for the latter. I used plain wire between the brake blocks rather than yokes. The centre w iron assembly has the fold up centre bearing for the wheels. I fitted the pin point bearings just to give the axle boxes something to positively fit to. The step boards are on .45mm wire. The wire is fitted in the holes to be flush at the back. It is strong and didn't require bending at the rear as in the instructions. I thought these would get in the way of something. To fit the boards to the wire I put them in place and jammed some card packing between the board and foor edge. Sodering didn't cause the wire to loosen in the sole bar or if it did the card stopped movement. Two holes weren't pefectly level but a slight bend in the wire whist keeping the board horizontal sorted it. They look nice and level from the side. Dave
  13. Any kind of factory glazing is very hard to find. Did you ask Bachmann? What was wrong with the glazing? If it was glue you can sometimes remove it with metal polish. The only other thing would be to use Comet sides to replace the originals if you are repainting anyway. Then you can use flat glazing material. Dave
  14. I just read through John's (Brossard) thread on his stove r and noticed he had done the same thing of making a jig for the stepboard holes and drilling through it. He should have the credit for doing it first! Anyway, it worked well. Dave
  15. I think I will have to leave mine the way it is now. I notice that the photo of the completed model from the old Comet (now on Wizard) shows it built like mine. I'm not too bothered. It's a bit like my Kitmaster MK1 that has the same problem but I don't notice it. Dave
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