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drgj

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  1. The class 24 really looks the part and the LMS liveried compound is fabulous. The prices are steep for coaches. £100? I thought the blue liveried porthole was very expensive at nearly £70. Dave
  2. I have often wondered if it would be possible to simply fit bearings into the plastic chassis of a kit like this and then use some adjustable length connecting rods. If there wasn't enough space between the frames for gears due to thickness of the parts maybe to simply copy the side frames in brass? Dave
  3. The original style ex Airfix tender drive class 4f is one of the most powerful model locomotives known to mankind. Dave
  4. I like the look of this loco and didn't mind the old version either. I remember when the Jouef class 40 came out and was very excited to get one for my birthday. I really liked it but do remember that it didn't look so good from the front but viewing it at a certain angle plus a bit of imagination cured it! It ran really well, was powerful and quiet (although the worm would occasionally pop off the motor!). How things have moved on! The other thing I remember is that I could buy a Hornby class 25 for a bit more than my weekly paper round pay. Do paper boys get £150 a week now?
  5. I like that a lot. . The battery box supports look good and are those brass nem sockets for couplings? Very neat. I would never have thought of doing that. I have some Parkside nem mounts that I was thinking of using. Dave
  6. Thank Thanks to ralphrob for the excellent pictures.
  7. I have been wondering about the battery regulator (I think that is what it is!). Is this a flat plate with the regulator on and then supported by four angled pieces of wire or two angled pieces of sheet? Thanks Dave
  8. They are probably just the original types. I didn't realise yours were special ones. Have you had a look at the Southern Pride site? They might have something. Dave
  9. I have a thread on building a Comet Stove R going at the moment. The tumble homes on the sides had been formed at an angle and annealing did help to make the job of fixing this easier. i too wouldn't recommend annealing unused material. Dave
  10. This is where I am now. I have the body soldered as in previous pics plus the roof cut to length, etc. The roof is a very good fit so I must have got the body nice and square. Here is the picture of the underframe/ floor assembly. I still have to fit the lower steps and various white metal fittings. I will be using Araldite for the latter. I used plain wire between the brake blocks rather than yokes. The centre w iron assembly has the fold up centre bearing for the wheels. I fitted the pin point bearings just to give the axle boxes something to positively fit to. The step boards
  11. Any kind of factory glazing is very hard to find. Did you ask Bachmann? What was wrong with the glazing? If it was glue you can sometimes remove it with metal polish. The only other thing would be to use Comet sides to replace the originals if you are repainting anyway. Then you can use flat glazing material. Dave
  12. I just read through John's (Brossard) thread on his stove r and noticed he had done the same thing of making a jig for the stepboard holes and drilling through it. He should have the credit for doing it first! Anyway, it worked well. Dave
  13. I think I will have to leave mine the way it is now. I notice that the photo of the completed model from the old Comet (now on Wizard) shows it built like mine. I'm not too bothered. It's a bit like my Kitmaster MK1 that has the same problem but I don't notice it. Dave
  14. I have made a Stove R before but with comet sides and an airfix coach chopped up. What I have suddenly remembered is that a stove has plain solebars rather than channeled. I remember making the floor and solebars from plastic and using comet w irons/ springs, etc. Maybe some did have channeled solebars? Dave
  15. I managed to drill the holes in the solebars into which the step board mountings will fit. This was after reading to do this before assembly! Anyway, to make the holes level I made a little guide. This was just a short strip of brass sized to slide along the solebar channel . I drilled a hole in this at the right height and then slid it along drilling through the hole. This also stopped the drill bit skidding about. Dave
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