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Jol Wilkinson

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Posts posted by Jol Wilkinson

  1. My preference, having built plastic bodied (Ratio), whitemetal (Gem, Ks, M&L) and etched brass/nickel silver (Proscale, LRM, Brassmasters), my preference is for the later. Whitemetal may have the benefit of built in ballast but generally lacks the crispness of etched metal and more prototypical thinness of exposed edges. Etched kits need added weight but that is not a problem if you allow for and build it in during assembly. Mixed material kits  also can have an advantage, such as resin castings for complex boiler/firebox/smokebox shapes. lost wax cast brass and n/s castings for boiler fitting and cylinder cross heads and slide bars.  

    • Like 5
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  2. Jesse,

     

    from many years experience assisting a trader at shows, children and the occasional adult think that an item on display is an invitation to touch or even pick up. Most sensible people who want to do so, usually to look at the detail, will ask.

     

    The only thing you can do it to put out a prominent "Do not touch" notice, also pointing out that the models are valuable and any damage will have to be paid for.  Sadly small children will probably ignore it but their parents should be aware.

     

    It is also not generally appreciated that small children have a third eye in the end of their forefinger, which they use to closely inspect things.

     

    Jol

    • Like 2
    • Round of applause 1
  3. 1 hour ago, MattR said:

     

    I did know that and probably conflated the names! Now that I think about it, I’m not sure if Claude & Eustace’s last names were ever given in the story.

    According to wakkypedia Claude and Eustace were Woosters, cousins of Bertie.

    • Like 1
  4. 3 hours ago, cctransuk said:

     

    My (secondhand) experience of 3D printing is that the technology IS capable of producing no-prep models.

     

    That said, the sophistication of the printer and, critically, the skill and experience of the operator, are the major determinants of the standard of the finished model.

     

    This is to be expected; after all, one would not expect a beginner to produce a perfect etched kit model.

     

    3D printing is merely a new means of producing a model; albeit one with great potential, given practice and patience.

     

    CJI.

     

    "given practice and patience."

     

    Which is what is often quoted as the reason for not  building kits, i.e. lack of the required skill and the time to do it. In a time when people want it quick, easy and cheap, diy 3D printing isn't likely to appeal to the majority of model railway enthusiasts.

    • Like 2
  5. 38 minutes ago, wombatofludham said:

    No I wasn't, I was explaining that we've had enough comments sneering about "playing trains" from people who think watching football or getting drunk is normal, despite both those activities being somewhat odd and creating costs to society in terms of extra policing and health costs which model railways do not.  I've had rabid, season ticket holding, footy fans sneer at me for being into model railways in the past and the arguments I've used here were thrown back at them with some force, so fighting external sneering with some acidic responses was not only justified but also achieved the objective.  If they want "bants" they chose the wrong person, it's a form of bullying so being patronising back to them is frankly the lesser of two evils

    The real point is the fact we can do without snotty attitudes from within the hobby when we all know there is still enough external commentary on the hobby from people who think it appropriate to diss our hobby.  I couldn't care less if they choose to waste their money on football or getting liver sclerosis so long as they keep out of my face.  What I find more difficult to accept is sniping from within the hobby.

    Perhaps it is referring to playing with toy trains (as you said in your earlier post) that has caused the hobby to be looked on by some other sectors of society. Shouldn't we be promoting railway modelling as a creative, worthwhile activity rather than disparaging or lessening it in the eyes of the general public or media?

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  6. Just now, bradfordbuffer said:

    Must be difficult to do any modeling yourself whist looking down your nose judging others!

     

    Everyone is entitled to do what they seem fit to do in the hobby it's all toy trains at the end of the day

    The rtr loco you buy at shops was a box of kit parts back in China or Wales! Just some one with skill and dexterity mad it for you

    My reference to modelling was a personal reflection on previous posts about what others consider modelling, quoting a dictionary definition of modelling. For me modelling means making things. Buying models that someone else has made isn't the same as model making but if it's what you want to do then that's okay with me.

     

    As for doing any modelling, I do get some done.

     

    D10Diner.jpg.5aca354bd14503fc0fe7618d3940275d.jpg

     

     

     

     

    • Like 4
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    • Craftsmanship/clever 3
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  7. 40 minutes ago, queensquare said:

    This is only a phone snap so only the foreground is in focus but, even when fuzzy, this sort of perfectly authentic train just confirms my feeling that, despite it being an awful lot of work, you can’t touch pre-group modelling. Discuss!!

     

    Jerry

     

    IMG_0406.jpeg.2e99d346720b5f9e8c8f500e9641d1cd.jpeg

     

    IMG_0403.jpeg.9806345441bca7d2e92bf008a81eec7f.jpeg

     

    Jerry,

     

    looks like an LNWR van. Did you use use that paint I gave you?

     

    Jol

    • Like 1
  8. 12 minutes ago, Michael Edge said:

    At the risk of repeating myself, there is no point at all in trying to assemble a plate frame exactly square. Almost all the torsional stiffness in a steam loco is in the boiler and this will easily pull your exactly square frame out of true when it is bolted up. All plate frames, including full size ones, are able to twist a bit, if your assembled frame isn't true just get hold of each end and twist it. For good running the only things that matter are wheel quartering and an exact match between the rod centres and axle centres - any of the jigs will enable the latter to be checked, springing or compensation are irrelevant  in this context.

    Which precisely describes the problems I had when building OO locos in my early days.,I always built the chassis first and get it running smoothly. Then I would bolt the loco body to it and it wouldn't run as well!

     

    When I moved over to P4 and started building compensated chassis, originally using Perseverance axle jigs (with parallel ends in two diameters) and later the LRM taper end jigs, I never experienced the problem again. Why, because any twist the body imparts to the chassis is counteracted by the horn blocks.

     

    I later took this further and now attach the body with a screw at one end and a relatively loose locator at the other, usually the coupling hook through the other end buffer beam and into the chassis front spacer. Where possible I included this in the locos I designed for LRM. 

    • Like 11
    • Informative/Useful 4
    • Interesting/Thought-provoking 1
    • Craftsmanship/clever 1
  9. I have realised that I needed to add some more section switches, one of the problems about getting old is leaving a period between building and wiring the storage sidings before getting round to the control panel. While waiting for the switches to arrive I have made up the connecting cable  and tested the continuity to the various sections, servo controllers etc. so I am in danger of getting to a point where I should be able to start test running something later in March (we have a lot on next month which will prevent me from putting as much time into the layout as I would like).

    • Like 7
  10. On 17/05/2023 at 08:13, Brassey said:

    After an interlude when other things have taken over, I'm now back on the workbench.  Currently starting an LNWR C Class from the London Road kit.  This is partly to see if I can get an 0-8-0 around the tight curves in the planned extended layout.  This is going to be a multi=beam compensation affair so I cut the 4 beams out of the etch first (some time ago).

     

    IMG_1592.jpg.fd721432d024d6f883753b884a112c51.jpg

     

    As is my practice, I pre-cutout the slots for the hornguides but left the outer two intact so that I could insert top hat bushes in order to assemble the frames square with the aid of a jig. 

     

    Before assembling, I created slots in the centre (firebox) spacer to allow the two side beams to pass through.  This part is half etched to allow for riveting on the firebox which adds a nice touch.  I assembled this slightly differently to the instructions to maintain some squareness after I'd removed a large part of the etch.  Here's the assembled frame showing the spacer.

     

    IMG_1597.jpg.19cf91b1d32d46a349229db6d7407f92.jpg

     

    The P4 AGW H spoke wheels do not have the holes for the crankpins drilled so these have to be drilled and counter sunk from behind.  A job I approach with some trepidation however having built 3 coal tanks and a coal engine, none of which are finished, I have had some practice at this task that does need precision.  I used my mini-drill in a press.  Here are all 8 wheels complete with AGW crankpins inserted.  One set is flangeless:

     

    IMG_1593.jpg.1e001b5d60db30aa8c01ca1169dfface.jpg

     

    Next up is to fit the High Level Hornguides in the slots that are already cut out.

     

     

    I built mine with a fixed driven rear axle, sprung the flangeless wheel (third) axle and used a single central beam on the front two axles. using LRM hornblocks.  It works well on London Road but the minimum radius is about 4' 6". Unfortunately I can't remember how much side play I built in and the loco is currently packed away.

    • Thanks 1
  11. D&S kits usually command high prices (more than I am willing to pay, anyway), but asking for more than twice the price for a D&S kit that is still available through LRM ( and is listed as ex-D&S ) shows that the seller is confident that there are enough "collectors" out there to pay over twice the cost for a new kit. He also claims to have 5 for sale,  as well as multiples of some other D&S kits, so must have found a modellers hoard.

     

    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/256425987038?mkevt=1&mkpid=0&emsid=e11021.m43.l1120&mkcid=7&ch=osgood&euid=072ae36f25e043f1919726568f70404e&bu=43007734306&ut=RU&osub=-1~1&crd=20240227012645&segname=11021

    • Like 4
  12. 12 hours ago, rob D2 said:

    That debate has been done to death . And as we’ve just had a debate on “ labelling “ I’m happy to say that both RTR and kit building is modelling in my eyes .

     

    I tried to get the only train kit of a 12T crane before the hattons thing but it was sold out - am now on waiting list fir next batch 

    If you look up the definition of modelling. one answer is "the activity of making three-dimensional models". So the purchase and use of RTR/RTP items isn't "modelling".

     

    The creation of a layout or diorama. which may enable those purchases to be used however, could be seen as modelling. It depends on how much effort you want to put in. 

    • Agree 1
  13. A bogie retaining link has the same effect as a radial (curved) slot. The front mounted link has the effect of moving the bogie pivot point forward as the bogie moves sideways, the opposite with a rear mounted link (the normal configuration).

     

    Other than possibly providing additional clearance to chassis mounted fittings such as brake gear, the fore or aft displacement will be relatively small unless on very sharp curves so it is difficult to envisage what other benefits there are.

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  14. Nice artwork, Dean.

     

    Is the chassis "multi-gauge"?

     

    I use CorelDraw which is 2D software and avoids any need to transfer from one format to another. I also found it very easy to learn, unlike 3D (I started with Turbocad many years ago). I did some training weekends on model etching for beginners, where people turned up with various software on their computers. It was very much the case that those who had 2D rather than 3D software were able to progress much more quickly. 

     

    I generally work to two decimal places of a millimeter (0.01)although it is possible to work to ).000001), which I find sufficient for etch artwork.

     

    Jol

    • Informative/Useful 2
  15. 1 minute ago, drduncan said:

    When it comes to private owner wagon liveries, I get the impression the Dapol take the 1980s Hornby approach - any body will do…

    Duncan

    Most modellers won't care or be bothered if they did know.

     

    Other RTR manufacturers may do the same, e.g. the Rapido "Not- Quite-Minks" (although at least they point it out).

    • Agree 1
  16. Progress seem to have been a bit slow of late, various things getting in the way. I let myself get diverted into a bit of proper modelling occasionally as a change from wiring.

     

    The main control panel is largely finished but some of it will have to wait until plans for the engine shed building is finalised and the tracks are laid. However, the storage siding control panel is well underway. I have used a Model Railway Solutions laser cut control panel kit. This can be hung on the baseboards edge and moved out of the way when not in use. About one third of the panel wiring is done, so it shouldn't take too much longer, although I also have to make the 37 way connector lead that will plug into the baseboard socket. A MERG 12 volt power supply plugs in to power the various controller servo and LEDs. The Pentrollers plug into the main board but have long enough leads to easily reach across.

     

    Storagesidingscontrolpanel.jpg.e70b8e019eb48a337fba165d7f64ea69.jpg

     

     

     

     

    • Like 9
    • Craftsmanship/clever 1
  17. A good website, but without the cost/complication of online ordering can work well for "Small Suppliers". The market for their products isn't large anyway (even for those with quite wide product ranges) and probably wouldn't justify the cost of a full e-commerce site. It might make purchasing a bit easier for the customer but would probably do little to attract new customers. 

     

    We need to remember that sales and marketing are effectively two different disciplines and it is the former that gets your products in front of the customer. In my experience attending shows is increasingly un-productive or unviable unless it is a specialist society or one of the "finescale" shows. Even large shows such as those put on by Warners, etc. don't attract a suitable customer profile to make it worthwhile for the small supplier. The mainstream magazines also seem to be heavily invested in reviewing and promoting the products of the major businesses and an advert or a piece in the Small Suppliers Forum in MRJ won't extend awareness very far beyond the existing  consumer sector.

    • Agree 5
    • Interesting/Thought-provoking 2
  18. On 18/02/2024 at 12:32, Lacathedrale said:

    Found one of the LNWR bogies was missing a frame end, so was being pulled laterally and dropping the wheelset - so time for a bit of emergency fannying around. When I grabbed it I posed next to my recently repainted version:

     

    IMG_3961.jpeg.a264d873934ab8b9a5be23b19674a0ca.jpeg

     

    I haven’t made a big effort to tidy up the edges at all, but even this first pass, I think is a significant improvement.

     

    The track also got a thorough clean and seems to be behaving much better now.

    I find it remarkable that anyone would get the LNWR livery so wrong as on the carriages you bought on Ebay. I have too often seen kit built models described as "built and painted to an excellent standard" when the word mediocre would be more accurate. 

     

    It isn't difficult to find online photos and details of both prototype and model LNWR carriages. While the quality of the painting can be variable if the painter was inexperienced or wasn't familiar with suitable techniques for two colour liveries, getting the colours that far out is  ridiculous.

    • Like 2
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    • Informative/Useful 1
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