Nig H

Hello Simon, This is coming along very nicely and I'm looking forward to future reports. Can you describe how you formed the tender side flares, and approximately how deep are the flares? Nigel Hunt

Here are some pics of my other Fowler 2-6-4T, 42400. Nig H

Hi, A smaller motor would help align the u/js better too. Nigel Hunt

How time flies! Here are some pics of 42337, just about finished now. I may do a bit of weathering but I risk spoiling the superb finish Ian Rathbone has achieved. Maybe just tone down wheels, motion and buffer beams. I wish I had noticed that gouge round the dome before I glued it on. Nig H

Hello Guy, Thanks for your comments. You may well be right about the level of demand for a form tool. Once we have a tool we can assess, we can decide if it is useful to members or not, and offer it to members with information about what it can or can't achieve. It might turn out that some of those who have expressed an initial interest in the tool decide its not for them after all. Regards, Nigel hunt Product Development Officer

Hello, Recently a number of members have mentioned being interested in Mike Raithby 4F kits, mainly for the tenders. I have discussed this pent-up demand with Tony Simms, and he told me the 4F (and the 8F) were poor sellers and he didn't plan to stock any more of the etches. He did agree to get more if there were sufficient orders, paid in advance. So, if you want any of either kit, can you contact me at nigel6235@outlook.com with your requirements, and I'll see if there are sufficient numbers for another order. Nigel Hunt Prod. Dev Officer

Hello, You will know that the Association wheel-turning service has ceased, and we are exploring options to replace it. One option is to make available to members a form tool so that members could turn wheels to finescale standards themselves. The Scalefour Society have done something similar for their members, and I can approach the firm that made their tools for a quote for a tool for us. The Scalefour Soc. tools worked out at £40 per tool based on quite a large order, and I expect we would order less, thus resulting in a higher price. What that price might be I have no idea, but say £50 - £60. On that basis, would anyone be interested in buying a tool? Please let me know via my email account nigel6235@outlook.com. I will request a quote in the next few days. Nigel Hunt Product Development Officer

Hi Klaus, I suspect the smokebox wrapper is on the wrong way round. If you can re-fit it then the holes should line up. Sorry, just noticed you've fitted the smokebox wrapper both ways. The first pics show the wrapper on the right way round, I think. Not sure why the holes don't line up. I don't remember it being a problem on mine. I'll have a look at them to see if they are in line. Here is a pic of one of mine. I can't see any sign of moving either of the steam pipe holes. It might be worth while double-checking the boiler, firebox and cab are dead tight against each other. Regards, Nigel Hunt

Hi, I have been asked which 2mm steam loco kit is the best one for a beginner to start with. I responded that most kits had difficult bits, but some were more difficult than others because of the nature of the prototype. Anyone here got any views or suggestions? Nigel Hunt

He's not the only one. It seems to me a number of CMEs are completely indifferent to the needs of 2mm scale modellers and the issue of tolerances when designing their wheel splashers. I think they expect us to remember to check the splashers are far enough apart for our wheels when starting on a loco, and make suitable adjustments if necessary. Nigel Hunt

Nice work Jerry. Glad the 483s run OK. When you get back to them you may need to check out the safety valves for them. Reading the Wild Swan book last night, I think you might need Ramsbottom style ones. Nigel Hunt

Here are some pics of my L & Y 2-4-2 T, 50850. Finally just about finished, after many years left to one side. Seems to have de-railed. Painted, lined and transferred by Ian Rathbone - he's done a great job as usual. Nigel Hunt

Hi Jerry, Thanks for the comments, and good to see its going well so far. The bogie pivot method you use is interesting so thanks for showing that aspect. I really like the above pic too- almost like some piece of modern art. Nigel Hunt

Hi, Allen Doherty is happy to answer any questions you may have and its better than guessing wrong and messing things up. Nigel Hunt

Blast, I just paint mine on. Seasonal greetings to all. Nigel Hunt

You could try this technique. Feed the sheet between two lengths of tube or rod and rotate them against the sheet to pull it through. The diameter of the rods governs the diameter you end up with. Practice on a bit of the scrap etch first to get the technique. The photos show me bending some 0,125mm nickel silver so 0.3mm might be harder to do but maybe worth a try. I usually use a length of plain tube inside the nickel silver overlay so I bend the overlay to a smaller radius than the tube. The overlay is then a tight fit on the tube and the two can be soldered together more easily. You can force one end out a bit for taper boilers, and use a ring of larger diameter tube on the other tube at the big end. Nigel Hunt

Thanks Kevin. 1) is scratchbuilt 2) is my own etch. Nick Mitchell did an article about building it and correcting the W-iron errors. 3) is a shot down from 4mm etch 4) is a David Eveleigh 2mm kit. Is there anything else you wanted to know about them? Nigel Hunt

Here are some pics of my LNWR 19" Goods, now painted and awaiting weathering, crewing and coaling. The wagons are from left to right 1) a L & Y D31 rail wagon, 2) an LMS long low, 3) an LNWR Chemical pan wagon, and a Midland Railway 6 wheel brake. Nigel Hunt

Hi Klaus, What thickness is your brass tube? I always use brass tube for boilers and I don't have a problem soldering parts to them, although these tend to be bits like handrail knobs. I think the wall thickness I use is about 0.5mm. I don't try soldering chimneys, domes etc to the boiler though, I prefer Araldite so I can fine-tune the position of the item. Nice to see your loco progressing and good luck with the fettling. Regards, Nigel Hunt

Hello Simon, The item Simon G mentioned is the one you need. Assembly of the valve gear without motion pins is as SG's Black 5 extract. Regards, Nigel Hunt

Hi Simon, If you ever need to remove bearings from frames, then try this. Hold a wooden skewer sharp end upwards in a vise, hold the bearing in the frame down over the skewer, then press down on the frame next to the bearing with your soldering iron. The bearing should soon release. I agree with Simon G about using the muff to limit sideplay. Good luck with this - looking good so far. Nigel Hunt

Hi Klaus, Nice work so far, and nice to see a 2mm scale Midland Compound. You mention 14mm driving wheels but I recommend you use 13mm drivers. With the overscale flange, 14mm won't fit in the rear splashers, and only just in the front splashers, assuming the kit is exactly to scale. I tried some 14mm drivers in my MR class 483 (whichich is about the same size in this repect) and they were just too big, whereas 13mm fitted and looked about right in my opinion. Here's a pic of my 483 for you to judge. Then you can use bigger bogie wheels too. I think 6mm diameter ones would look too small. On my loco the frames are angled in slightly towards the front end from near the front step, a trick I copied from a John Greenwood T9 4-4-0. This allows more sideplay for the bogie. It might be a bit late to do this with your loco though. I look forward to you posting more updates soon. Nigel Hunt

Here are some shots on my LNWR 19" Goods with all the construction work finished. I want to add a bit more weight over the drivers as the loco seems a bit nose heavy. Then it will be ready for painting, crewing and coaling. Nigel Hunt

Hello Simon, It might be best to put the non-flute end of the drill in the axle muff unless you really want to open out the bearing hole in the frame. Nigel Hunt

Hello Adam, Yes that's right. This will provide a single 30:1 ratio with the worm wheel on the driving wheel axle muff. Nigel Hunt