Jump to content
 

zr2498

RMweb Gold
  • Posts

    1,023
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by zr2498

  1. On 28/04/2024 at 18:32, classy52 said:

    Shame there are no current day Preserved Class 55's that are running on either heritage or mainline being done.

    Here's a video to keep you going until they are produced.

    I'm off to the NYMR tomorrow for a train ride and some Moors walking (good weather predicted 🙂)

     

     

    Thanks to Robert Townsend

    • Like 2
  2. Now for the trailing car.

    Any 8 pin decoder, (non sound) should be suitable. I dug out an old ESU Lokpilot decoder which had been in a loco working fine, before it was upgraded to sound.

    On installation to the trailing car, it did not control the lights at all. This was without the driving car on the programming track.

    I checked the pick ups of the trailing car, and found poor contact on one side / one bogie. This was corrected, but no change.

    I tested the decoder with a Lok Programmer and it worked fine. Operating lights and the motor on the tester. But no luck on the programming track using an ECoS Command station. It would give 'error' message when reading / writing CV address, but crazily the write was actually making the change.

     

    Gave up, and installed a new Zimo MX600R. Of course I could not test this on the Lok Programmer, but it worked OK on the trailing car via the Command Station!

     

    DSC09752.JPG.87fb62929de972aac24f72507210498f.JPG

     

    I had given the driving car an address of 32 and wanted to have the same address on the trailing car. ECoS is over protective and will not allow this = 'conflict'. I dug out an old Black and White ECoS and set the address to 32 on the separate device.

    Hey presto. The 2 cars work fine with one address, saving the formation of a consist, however I did have to reverse the direction of the driving car to match the directional lighting.

     

    The Zimo decoder was a little too large to fit into the hidden compartment so a small recess was cut into the wall above the seats.

     

    DSC09756.JPG.eb09fc62fe4ada7f78d8ea157c3a78ac.JPG

     

    The wires were disguised with black tape.

     

    DSC09754.JPG.dd5565afc2da5c21bc6c349c209b3e63.JPG

     

    So all is working but have I missed something when using the Lok Pilot.

     

    DSC09759.JPG.199555193182b218d4435b7e69163224.JPG

     

     

     

    • Like 2
  3. This installation is already well described on the Roads and Rails web site, however I have added a few extra details, and there are a few mysteries which I could not resolve, even though I did eventually get it all working.

     

    DSC09757.JPG.44dee78a86646d8b0dcf08befb08d31b.JPG

     

    This is the kit used:

     

    image.png.db89b3b7d7fee89f08c992f07f77b597.png

     

    First job for the DMU was to service and run in, as not been out of the box since purchase.

    A strip down of the motor housing was needed to acces to the motor bearings.

     

    DSC09734.JPG.c28b71cd69e81835be70e478b8b42594.JPG

     

    The Train-O-Matic stay alive could not fit into the end of the motor housing as supplied:

     

    DSC09741.JPG.810a5a074a3f749fa68f4ce5bd4ac5b9.JPG

     

    The insulation was carefully trimmed off at each end.

     

    DSC09742.JPG.00e6d34de1fd7c79028d3c2b20bbc28e.JPG

     

    And installed.

     

    DSC09744.JPG.c13947cce2f8d18db5f8cbd873f134d9.JPG

     

    Installating the decoder without getting a kink in the ribbon cable was not easy. I found it best to first install the decoder with black tack.

     

    DSC09745.JPG.7618a94deb52f8b1f86c907145233cf7.JPG

     

    And then hold the ribbon loosely by covering the well with Kapton tape.

     

    DSC09746.JPG.b81b93301a6f4a1f8f615fcaa84d3fd6.JPG

     

    The speaker was installed a little differently to R & R. I had the speaker sitting higher up attached to the motor housing with black tack.

     

    DSC09750.JPG.bb2117457798ad4086818a29b58d0574.JPG

     

    So far, so good and the sound for the driving car was good. Next will be the trailing car where the problems arose.

     

     

     

     

    • Like 1
  4. 9 hours ago, Albie the plumber said:

    Really great job ! 

    You've certainly achieved your objective of getting sound into a Teddy Bear without major surgery .

    Not an easy loco to work on , in fact , quite horrid !

    I found a pic I posted on a Facebook group that showed my attempt at sound and stay alive ,

    I did have to take a hacksaw to the smaller bonnet in order to get sugar cube and stay alive in ,

    All in all , it works very well  but not easy as you know .

    To get a speaker as large as yours was quite an achievement so well done !

    91004777_276522666671798_6734632900517429248_n.jpg

    Thanks for posting. Perhaps one day I will attack the chassis under the small bonnet. Did you remove the chassis to hacksaw it. Stopping all of the saw cuttings getting into the works would concern me.

    One day I will finish getting a Unimat SL set up for milling!

  5. This is a challenging sound installation owing to the limited space available.

    The priority was to install a speaker as large as possible, without any major removal of the chassis.

     

    This is the kit used:

     

    image.png.4608356c1b1772aed593058619ebfee6.png

     

    Cab and bonnets removed.

     

    DSC09607.JPG.1579c6a7cb60d4d7ad2fe3c95e435e19.JPG

     

    The decoder needed to be hardwired as there is not enough room to use the 8 pin plug.

    The wiring of Heljan consists of just red and black wires, so as the PC board was removed, all of the wires were labelled.

     

    DSC09608.JPG.321fff8641b40d7853f9bcadcce65a35.JPG

     

    This is the speaker.

     

    DSC09713.JPG.d65f262f4ec6821a43444afe4c6593e6.JPG

     

    The fastening lugs were removed.

     

    DSC09715.JPG.d3965fc5303e758c27c65b880f54c3e5.JPG

     

    It fits nicely into the recess of the chassis.

     

    DSC09716.JPG.17885f2abd73b3aa0c91a76c77a37080.JPG

     

    Decoder plug removed and wires prepared. The two function wires, and the wires for capacitor self wiring could be removed.

     

    DSC09717.JPG.8f909a8a4948dc64b9a424a99e94d3d0.JPG

     

    image.png.ae1cca600a32609afee9170d36f14714.png

     

    To give more clearance above the decoder for wiring, the stub for holding the original PC Board was removed.

     

    DSC09719.JPG.1b2e4f8fef8ac206579e955937ef4c5b.JPG

     

    DSC09721.JPG.522b4387c4f6ea48dffb5d333892ca6f.JPG

     

    As the PC Board had been removed, the lighting circuits needed to have resistors added to protect the LEDs.

     

    DSC09723.JPG.97e70d92ec139e9dd7d34298a4624359.JPG

     

    DSC09725.JPG.c6b3a5028b91988c4c0421e0668f8929.JPG

     

    Further preparation of the decoder wiring.

     

    DSC09727.JPG.295c4831148aede309b57cf6bc83d835.JPG

     

    Wire connections step by step, removing labels as the connections are made.

     

    DSC09730.JPG.a3930856499398b7be0ed4d38f3270ab.JPG

     

    DSC09731.JPG.5d76cf8e379ff52a95b3750ddc4f84ee.JPG

     

    Final tidy up, and Kapton tape used before replacing the bonnets.

     

    DSC09733.JPG.263315f17342b2e779fe63b32728fb6a.JPG

     

    It was really difficult to get the bonnet back on. The wiring down the side of the chassis has to be just in the right position. If I had another go, then channels for wiring would be made or opened up.

     

    I looked for a wiring route to add a stay alive in the cab, but not easy.

    I may go back into the loco to see if it could be fitted under the bonnet at the opposite end. Either milling or drilling into the chassis would be needed.

     

    So far it is running well with excellent sound. I have heard that the earlier models had problems with the pick ups, so a stay alive is still in mind.

     

    • Like 2
    • Informative/Useful 1
  6. 11 hours ago, IOW O2 said:

     

    I think he is more forgiving than a lot of us might be after talking with Hornby.  All the big boys I conversed with at shows (HBy, Bach, Accu.) with concerns, refused to discuss that their models may have issues, as posted on these forums and YT, they just gave politicians type answers, and dismissed RMweb.  The only one who were really concerned were Cavalex.

    I get the impression that Accurascale do not dismiss RMWeb and are very much proactive with feedback.

    • Like 2
    • Agree 14
    • Funny 1
  7. 12 minutes ago, ColinB said:

    I watched "Little Wickets" review and it is pretty fair, the only thing that concerned me was he didn't try it on analogue once he had cleaned the connector. I run DCC all the time and I cannot see how adding DCC is going to fix a connector fault on its own. DCC especially if you add "stay alive" definitely with improve slow speed running but it is not going to fix the connector issue. It is correct that they have used the tender arrangement before but not on a Stanier  tender, they were all on Gresley 8 wheel tenders. So what part have they changed?

    Agree. He should have cleaned the contact first and tested instead of changing two variables. I have made this remark on the U-tube video but no reply as yet.

    • Agree 3
  8. 7 hours ago, 97406 said:

    They do look nice, though I have most variants covered with recent Heljan purchases and ones on order from SLW. I’ll go for 2 middle sound fitted blue 25/1 models and save a few bob by weathering them myself. They’ll need dominoes fitting as well.

    Agree they do look nice, and it looks as though they will be catering for most variants.

    Hopefully delivery of these will be straight forward. That is, delivery to Bachmann and retailers, and then a speedy onward journey the customers. 🙂

    • Agree 1
  9. 24 minutes ago, maico said:

     

    It's called a straight through review, no knocking copy. So, 'a wealth of detail, runs fine on our layout', and other hackneyed Cliché.

    Our intrepid reviewers then decamp to the pub basking in the glow of a job well done...🍺

     

    And not at all fair or informative for potential purchasers who don't read the likes of RMWeb, or watch U-tube reviews.

    • Like 2
    • Agree 1
  10. 9 minutes ago, adb968008 said:

    U have to wonder why models arent using usb-c connectors…

     

    its an industry standard, cheap as cheaps, easily understood and of course an EU standard.

     

    its not charging anything but its still more pins than a model will need and robust and smaller than the current solution too.

    I did have a look at those 8 pin USBs, but then I wondered about the current ratings?

    • Like 1
  11. 1 minute ago, GrumpyPenguin said:

    Absolutly no excuse for substandard couplings/connectors or close coupling (apart from maybe the "Thanet Disease").

    Image shows how it can be done - close coupled & 8-pole.

    3478020201001_3598430_Qty1_1.jpg

    Looks a much better design, except for loco / tender there is not gap adjustment. Personally I would prefer two 4 pin JST style plug sockets either side of an adjustable draw bar. The 4 wires to each keeps the stiffness reduced rather than an 8 pin assembly.

    Not sure why Hornby need the 8 pins as the firebox glow is on constant and fed from the loco pick ups I assume. However 8 pin would be better for those that want to have DCC control of firebox glow

    • Like 1
×
×
  • Create New...