Argos

Another taker here for some 2mm scale NBR wagons if available.

Thanks Nick, That's what I understood also. I was just contemplating investing in the etch to add to the gloat pile before NBrass disappears at the end of next month.

Hi Nick, Are the 2mm etches the onez currently available from Brass or are they from another source? Thanks Angus

Hi Jazz, The Caledonian used route indicators (two short metal blades mounted on the smoke box). There are various diagrams in the published literature but I can't see a link online. https://www.crassoc.org.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=1509&p=10148&hilit=indicators#p10148 If you can access a copy of Caledonian Railway Locomotives - The Classic Years, there is a photo on Page 188 of 904 outside Carlisle with indicators showing it will heading to Perth. Other images here: https://www.hattons.co.uk/directory/vehicledetails/3143119/4_6_0_cardean_class_cr_ https://www.railwaywondersoftheworld.com/famous-expresses3.html

I bought a coil of the code 30 rail which I never used so should still have at home somewhere (on my hols at present otherwise I would check). Happy to post it on if the OP still wants some (assuming I can find it......) Another vote for code 30 flat bottom here Mark. It would be ideal for my Irish modelling. Sadly probably a bit niche to make it worthwhile producing.

Hi Yaxxbarl, Have you tried submersing the print in white spirit? It hardens up the print making it easier to sand and smooth whilst also turning it opaque white.

At the risk of inflaming what has obviously become a personal argument: I welcome Jerry's warts and all reviews. No kit goes together perfectly, especially in our scale as the tolerances are so fine. A slight over or under etch can affect many elements and each contributory error adds up. Combine that with any ham fistedness in building, my inability to follow instructions, I may chose a different construction method or errors in the kit itself will all all lead to issue to resolve. Jerry's articles show the problems he found and how he solved them to produce an excellent end result. This gives me confidence that I could also produce something worthwhile from the kit. It certainly doesn't put me off purchase. Our product base for 2mm finescale is small and specialised, any product that can produce such good results is welcome! Angus Higgins (just so I'm not hiding behind an avatar)

And what is missing from the "value" conversation is my half Yorkshire half Scottish genetics.......

Ah! so you won it! I did bid on it but not with any seriousness given my lack of 7mm modelling of late, so missed it by about a tenner. It meant I had money to spend on a more relevant project to my current modelling so all worked out. I'm glad it turned out to be a good one. Angus

Thanks VRBroadgauge, I have looked at those gauges before but with postage and import tax I'm looked at in excess of £25 which feels a bit rich. I might try and make my own, or fudge something up using my crossing nose gauges and a shim.

A slight cock-up in planning has meant I have a sharper then planned curve on my Irish Broad gauge (10.5mm gauge) layout currently under construction. I was always planning to use gauge widening as the minimum "standard" curve I had design to was 20" so well below the recommended 28" minimum in the society's track standards: For the 20" curve I was intending to use the 0.1mm 0.004" widening recommended in the table above. My sharper curve is down to 16", should I be widening beyond this or stick to 0.1mm widening? Or is it a case of some trial and error required?

Exquisite workmanship as ever Mike, and setting the standard for us mere mortals to attain!

Hmm... May the forth be with you? My first 2mm point was built in less than an hour with no jigs on a basic template. I just got stuck into some rail butchery with some files. It worked fine, so convinced me there was nothing to this point building malarkey. What was all the fuss about? Sadly it was all downhill from there. I am hoping to be back on the uphill slope now. What I have learnt is that the throw it together approach can work, however if you want consistency a more structured approach is needed (and ultimately more satisfying).

Absolutely, already checked, double checked and checked again, and will be checked once droppers are soldered on and again when glued down and at each stage until I'm watching the DCC controller flash for short as I connect it and switch it on.........

A couple of hours at the workbench saw the pointwork finished off with the check rails soldered on and the PCBs all gapped (bet I've missed a section somewhere!). With that done a couple of tight spots were identified by running a six wheeled tender chassis through the assembly. These were gently teased out with the soldering iron (a great advantage of PCB soldered rail for point work). Removing the assembled unit from the board then pealing off the templates after a year was quite satisfying. The baseboard has now been drilled for power feeds and point motor slots. Despite careful planning I've still managed to get a cross beam in the way of one the tie bars so some thinking required. Hopefully next weekend should see it all glued down