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ianb3174

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  1. Andy I wouldn't be doing mixed gauge, just using EM standards at 12mm gauge
  2. Interesting. So this would work using EM standards minus 6.2mm?
  3. ianb3174

    Drakelow

    There probably are cleaner wheels to test with but these will do for now. A test CCT chassis (95mm) with regauged P4 wheels. Yes, the axles are 00, yes the W irons are bent all shapes and yes, that is fluff. But this is quite close to what you see when peering under a real wagon. It's standing on the B5 line and there's some lovely tight clearances as it rolls through the crossing. EM gauge wheels pass through ok, with 16.65mm b2b and regauged 00 at 16.5mm b2b work but only on the shorter wheelbase stock.
  4. ianb3174

    Drakelow

    Version 3 of this troublesome assembly is now in place and looking ok, given the effort put in. Judge for yourselves. Maybe a bit over the top for a fiddle yard but good practice for techniques in plan to use on the scenic sections. I've put in the stock rails and blades tonight so it resembles a proper tandem turnout. Comments, critique and suggestions gratefully received, but not necessarily acted upon.
  5. Perhaps rename the SG Industrial to SG Industrial & Light Railways? Thinking of the Shropshire & Montgomeryshire which was both at points in its life
  6. ianb3174

    Drakelow

    I took it all apart and rebuilt it as two separate crossings. I had to make a couple of new wing rails but the proof is in the pudding (which was fruit crumble and carnation milk btw) and all stock trundles through without a scrape or wobble. Next stop the sharp end. Maybe I'll ride the wave of excitement another day. I'm dreading wiring it up but after looking online it's not a lot more complicated than a regular turnout.
  7. ianb3174

    Drakelow

    They are supposed to be 0.8mm flangeways (EM-SF) so that one is likely correct and the others a bit wide. If it was for a scenic board I'd rip it out and start again as I think it's messy. I have used 0.8mm pcb strip to assemble the crossing in a society crossing jig and although I've not trimmed the excess lengths from the assembly I think the pcb looks too chunky. I've previously used Code 75 BH on its side for this purpose, again it looks chunky, and copper wire. Again this worked but was a nightmare to hold in place. I'm thinking 1mm brass bar might be best. Maybe I could try cutting the pcb lengthways?
  8. ianb3174

    Drakelow

    This part of the tandem was the hardest bit of trackwork I've ever built. I could (should) have done it as two separate crossing assemblies but thought I'd be clever. Turns out I wasn't so clever. Never mind, it all works, stock with various wheels pass through it all but it looks like a dogs dinner. Those plans for making this bit scenic? Forget it, it's a fiddle yard again. I can see why people throw the rails down on pcb sleepers. Good practice for the future when I build Ludgate Hill in Proto Z. Off to have a lie down now.
  9. Give a few more days then
  10. Has anyone received a C&L order in the last few weeks? I have one from 31st March but no updates. Emails not answered and phone ringing out. EMGS order on the same day came within a few days.
  11. ianb3174

    Drakelow

    Here's some more Drakelow action. All very exciting receiving packages during a lockdown. Hearty thanks to the two suppliers I've made use of recently, C&L and the EM Gauge Society. On with the update. Picture 1 is a lovely evening study of check rail gauges in their natural environment. Look how they hug the previously prepare check rail when sited correctly in the crossing assembly. Picture 2 shows the amendments to the fiddle yard exit tracks. I'm having a double exit, because I can. That will be the former passenger line to the now closed station. The tandem will exit into the former quarry yard. All this will become evident in around 2023, or May 2020 if the lockdown continues at this pace. The rails have been soldered to pcb at the edge of the board ready to connect to board 2. As you can see I've invested in a crossing filing jig. Blimey, who knew that using jigs and robust construction methods would be so easy? It'll come in very handy as the next two crossings are a 1:5 and a 1:8 in close proximity to each other. The designer has since left the country. Don't judge me on my soldering, I promise to get better. I didn't burn myself this session so that's a positive. I did nearly poke the crossing V through my thumb though. Off to drill some small holes in tiny places.
  12. ianb3174

    Drakelow

    Version 2 is likely to have the rail vertical and thinner pcb. I'm thinking it could also be half the width too. The sketch shows the principle. I build all my track onto 5mm foamboard then stick to the baseboards so cutting a channel under the switchblades is easy, as is hiding WIT routes. Onto the tandem next, with crossing jig and solder ready. Glad I've invested in more Exactoscale chairs as they seem to thread a lot easier than the C&L ones.
  13. Ok, that seems reasonable. It was just that I wasn't that impressed by some of the the SW samples I've seen. Not yours btw. I'll have to brush up on my Fusion 360.
  14. ianb3174

    Drakelow

    After much deliberation, and sketching, and researching, and fretting, I've actually chosen my method of tiebar/Stretcher. I looked at all the fancy fold up etches from Ambis and Masokits and didn't fancy looking for them on the floor of my dimly lit workshop, as that's where they'd inevitably end up. I went for a simple yet robust approach. Basically it involves 2 small plates of double sided pcb with a piece of Code 75 BH soldered to the underside. The switches are soldered to the top surface whilst the stock rails were kept free by putting a piece of paper between rail and plate (not my original idea and I nearly forgot to do it). The rail is isolated from the power by the pcb core. Following other advice I have allowed the switches to spring against the stock rail, apparently this allows any throw action to use less force and allows the blades to seat in the joggle/set better. Tip 1, leave these 4 slide chairs off until after you've soldered. (I'll let you guess what happened when I first attempted it). I intend to put a piece of paper over the tiebar itself to hold ballast and glue in a cosmetic plastic rod/bar at rail web level. I'm no expert but I think the solder on both sides of the plates will offset any torsional/rotation stress in use. The main fillets of solder run at 90° to each other. Ignore the chairs on the left sleeper, I'm going to replace them. I think some low skilled operator may have left the soldering iron on the rail too long, and the far switch is a bit awry. Both need a rub down but work as intended. In fact you could say I was more than pleased with the result. The throw action is firm but precise. The plates stop the switches rising above the level of the stock rails and the rail section allows me to make a robust connection to the Wire in Tube method of operation that I'm planning. Although it was intended as a 1200x200 fiddle yard to test/refresh my skills I'm thinking it could become a scenic section as well. I'm imagining a loading platform and low relief factory with sidings. It's only a basic straight inglenook with a kickback siding, just right for those tight factory yards that used to exist all over the network. As usual I invite you all to offer a critique/opinion or whatever in response.
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