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wandering blue

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    Worcestershire in the sticks

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  1. On the dot matrix front, have you seen model transport graphics on eBay? I think they will make bespoke to order. https://www.ebay.co.uk/str/modeltransportgraphics
  2. It would be worth you searching RMWeb for gradient discussions on spirals/ helixes, relevant to where your ramps will be curved. You might want to consider DCC Concepts Powerbase. Non-steam era stock generally has an easier time of it, as others have said already. WB
  3. Hello . I've got one of these as a trial to see if they make any sense: https://www.tillig.com/eng/Produkte/produktinfo-85139.html The principle is to have overlapping chamfered cut rails in the centre of a short length of track, so that one end can be slid out up to 5mm across baseboard joints. Evidently electrical continuity therefore relies on the opposing faces on the joint; perhaps an additional pair of flexible droppers would solve that if it were problematical. The friction at the joint relies only on the plastic chairs and I can see this
  4. Hello. I seem to be following in Colin's footsteps 4 years later. I asked Tillig to confirm how these are to be fitted. Their translated answer was: The application of the contact terminal 85506 can be seen here as a picture: The bracket is thus inserted into the profile at the bottom and can then be soldered there firmly. Please note that if the profile is burned, the burnishment must be removed so that the current flow is not inhibited. A cable can then be soldered to the second end of the contact terminal. Therefore there seems to be no gai
  5. Bumping an old thread here as the nearest I can find to some Tillig questions. I'm about to start laying Tillig Elite into Tillig Styrostone, to operate with with Cobalt stall motors. Experience of this particular combo, or with other stall motors, welcome! To all (and Vistisen in particular as above), why would you fit the motors to the extension of the tie bar rather than using the hole in between the rails? In particular, does this assist, or be detrimental to, tie-bar longevity, in anyone's experience? I appreciate that the tie bars are fragile, and from
  6. Tim, good to hear! Can't wait! Not... Before you steeled yourself for the points, did you replace the tie-bars with copper-clad, or have you kept faith with the original plastic ones and their tiny pins?
  7. Hi Tim, much appreciated. Plenty of trial and error here as well! A warm air paint stripper set on ‘low’ is still too much heat for the styro, so a new hairdryer is in order...... I too may lay my points first, because those positions are already set by ‘wells’ made in the underside of my extruded foam baseboards, although working in two directions on curves between points is going to be fun! I like the idea of soldering the droppers to the joiners, presumably you cleaned the weathering off those before fitting. I’ve so far tried some rail-side connections , like I’ve used on m
  8. Hello D1023 - great layout!, and Pete (and maybe others), who evidently has also used styrostone. Seems there is not much of that about on rmweb, so I thought I'd start here with some styro questions if D1023 you don't mind. I'll start a new thread if this detracts from your layout. I'm about 3 years behind you D1023, insofar as I'm about to start laying tillig styrostone, for exactly the same reasons. Can I ask please, given that you fit the track to the styro before adhering to the baseboards, did you add track power droppers before or after laying? I'm currently tria
  9. Hi Graham. Any chance of a photo of the inside of your voyager to see how the heat sink is arranged? Have you glued the pad into place with 2 part thermal epoxy?
  10. Simon, I recently ordered some from Rapido directly. There was a covid-19 related unusual delay of around 3-4 weeks, but Rapido respond quickly and in a friendly manner to any queries. Not fitted them yet, but basically no problems with web sourcing or payment to Canada. WB
  11. Indeed it was. I’ve waded through the original trail and all the spin-off links and unless I’ve missed it, no one answers the OPs 3rd question? Presumably locating point motors between pairs of running lines is avoided for safety reasons, unless perhaps there is very restricted clearance on the outside? WB
  12. Good to know! A summary of your entire Heaton Lodge experience, if I might be so bold. I’m very much looking forward to seeing your magnum opus later this year at Warley ( with 2m of baseboard to myself to get a clear view and no backpacks in my ribs), or if that isn’t meant to be, in its own travelling artic-convoy circus some point next year. Your updates on here are a welcome distraction to the new world order, so on behalf of your readership, thank you for taking the time to share the journey. Phil
  13. Hi Simon, stunning execution thus far! Good to see Heljan now behind you (presumably amongst others) and I hope the business plan works out for you. Um, 20kgs added to 100 MGR’s ! Not sure how many rakes that is going to make for you, but have either Heljan, JLTRT, your very small select army of devotees or your good self actually tried test running the proposed trains at full weight with the proposed traction? In 00, perlite stained with black India ink is one way of saving weight! Or is the load simply a decent excuse to run double or treble headers? Take care.
  14. Compile from Speakon, XLR, or Anderson Powerpole. See this thread : Recommend a robust plug.
  15. Which, surprise surprise, advocates Anderson power poles. Solid advice as usual from Suzie. Agree about Speakon and XLR, less so , like Melmerby, about D connectors. I have many powerpole connectors, so was able to spread the cost of the bespoke crimping tool (that makes forming the fittings quick, simple and reliable). If the OP needs to only make a small number, Speakon or XLR get my vote. If the number increases, powerpole becomes my preferred choice.
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