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    Passed cleaner at Swanage Railway, keen beer enthusiast and railway modeller.

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  1. Just thought I should update this again to give a full account of what the source of the problem was. After glueing the motors back in place, I still wasn’t satisfied with the way they threw the blades. A fair amount of problem solving and head scratching eventually sourced the problem to the 2m long 25pin to 25pin cable, which I had been using to join the control board and baseboard. With one of the switches wired directly to the point motor the motors operated perfectly. I’ve got a shorter cable on order, but may have to re think the whole way I was connecting the baseboard and control board. So the problem seems to be wiring related and not the foamboard! Now to tidy all of the wiring up... Thanks all for the help.
  2. Hi Mick, this was my thoughts too. I have attempted to re-mount on with PVA on the flat faces and a more extensive bead of hot glue around the edge to hold it in position while it drys, initial results suggest this might have cured the problem, but I'll wait until the PVA is fully dried before trying this on the rest of the points. Thanks, Will
  3. Thanks all for the replies. In the intervening period the larger CDU has arrived, which was duly fitted. One of the points would switch in one direction only, but not the other, so to rule out it being an alignment issue I've taken them off and will look at this when it's a bit less hot(!) Thanks Mick, I've not got the PM1s, but have tried lubrication to no avail. The wire is also completely clear of the sides of the hole. I'm not using Hornby Switches, I'm using switches identical to the ones below, I may have used the wrong name for them. They're the same switches that I've used without problems on my OO9 layout. This is interesting, I'm currently leaning towards some servos, if I can't get this fixed! Another point I'm wondering is whether it's the hot glue I've used to hold them in place being too flexible...
  4. Hi all, I'm wondering if you could all help me with a problem I've got getting some point motors to work, having failed to find the source of the problem myself. The problem is as follows. I've got Seep point motors fitting under the baseboard (which is 5mm foamboard) wired up to passing contact switches, 24volt AC and a CDU, frog polarity is controlled by Gaugemaster relay wired into the Point control circuit. The problem is that the motors don't seem to have enough 'go' to get the points switched from one direction to the other. On the recommendation of a friend, I've already beefed up the power supply to 24volts to no avail and have a larger CDU on its way. I've tried removing the relays from the wiring system but this doesn't seem to make a difference. The points are freely moving, and will 'throw' when you push the rod from the point motor to the tiebar by hand, they also aren't gummed up with anything (yes, I am the person who stupidly ballasted the track before checking this). I have removed one of the motors from the bottom of the board and it does throw via the switch, so it doesn't seem to be an issue of power not getting to the motors. The only remaining things I think I can of being a problem are: 1) Needs a larger CDU to give more kick to the throw. 2) Foamboard baseboard too flexible absorbing/defecting the throw of the motor, although I can't see any deflection when I try and throw the point. 3) Other unknown wiring/electrical problem Any thoughts on how best to fix this? The only thing I can think of is replacing them with servos! Thanks, Will
  5. Found a bit of time over the last few days to make a bit more progress on the layout, namely with the ground terrain. This was made from 'Sculptamould' over polystyrene formers. I am planning to model the layout with the water at 'half tide' so there will be plenty of water for a vessel alongside the quay but still some potential for some mudflats/shore at either end of the layout. I need to pick up the latest Model Rail Magazine for info on how Chris Nevard did this. The Sculptamould is currently drying, but then I'll paint this and the rest of the ground covering in burnt umber. This will then enable me to make a start on the quayside wall and DAS for some of the areas of Hard standing on the quay. For the quayside, I have settled on a wooden side. To construct this I have obtained some 3mm x 1.5mm wooden strip and some 5mm x 5mm Balsa for the uprights and rubbing strips. I will need to chop and weather this to length before fitting, but the photo below shows some of the wood offered up, and I think it will look quite effective. More soon.
  6. LBSC123

    EFE Rail launches

    A positive development for the Hobby, I’m glad to see the DJ models J94 back in production. *Crosses fingers and toes for a re-run of the DJ/Kernow O2*
  7. This all sounds very interesting and not fundamentally different from my reasoning to focus on the goods side of things given the small space I'm dealing with for Shalfleet Quay, which is 4ft 9inches x 18inches. Although I have got a few of the Hatton's Genesis coaches on pre order and am looking to kit bash a Ratio Midland bogie into a push pull coach...! Lepe sounds perfectly plausible to me. In fact, my understanding was that line was built there to provide closer shipping routes to the Freshwater Yarmouth and Newport Railway docks at Shalfleet. I'll look forward to further developments, I'd suggest that trying to fit a rail ferry in may not be possible. I gave it similar consideration at Shalfleet but couldn't do it without dominating the scene, but a road connected ferry would provide a nice bit of variety. Of course you'd want to ensure that in modelling that you didn't use space that would otherwise be useful to provide more operating interest. You could consider the slipway without the ferry, assuming it's somewhere in transit? It all sounds very interesting, I look forward to seeing further progress.
  8. Spent a few hours getting the Peco Bullhead buffer stops weathered and painted up. I think they look pretty good although I'll probably re-do the red lines with some masking tape. I've made a decision to go for wood for the quayside, and have placed an order for this. So expect more progress on that and the landscape later this week. I'm hoping to emulate some of Luke Towan's work on this diorama for the river: Thanks for reading.
  9. The Isle of Wight sounds good, although I may be biased
  10. Thanks for the kind words Graham, I’ll be chuffed if I can get it to look half as good as Canute Road Quay. A wonderful photo and thanks for sharing. It’s going to require a fair bit of thought to capture the flavour of the marshes. It’s slightly woodier on the Shalfleet side of the Creek, so I will attempt to have some marshes blending into the trees at the edges of the board. Thoughts on how to model this appreciated!
  11. * Eagerly awaits further news with baited breath *
  12. Decided that the hottest day of the year was a good day to make a start of ballasting the track. The ballast is sand courtesy of Swanage beach, washed with clean water and sieved to remove any larger grains or natural material and then left to dry in the sun for a week. This is held down with the standard PVA and water plus washing up liquid mix. I think it's a fairly good representation of the Shingle ballast found on the Isle of Wight. More soon.
  13. Hi Jack. I’ve used Gaugemaster Seep point motors mounted directly to the base of the board with a hot glue gun. They seem very well attached, so I think they should stand the test of time. The track is just held down with PVA glue on the cork base, it was pinned and weighed down to help it hold its position where necessary. You could go with 10mm foamboard and the locating pin for the tiebar would still be plenty long enough. Hope that helps. Will
  14. Thanks Ray, I’ll take a look. The Carisbrooke livery is wonderful isn’t it? The Terriers are superb runners too.
  15. Well here's the well overdue update. I've spent a frustrating amount of time stuck waiting for parts to complete the track laying and wiring on the board, but finally have got the layout to a stage where I can run trains. I have used Gaugemaster relays under the boards to control the frog polarity and already I can tell this is dramatically going to improve the reliability of the points. I've just got to build the control panel for the point motors then I will have final confirmation that these are all wired up correctly. I then made a start on weathering the track. For this, I used paints from the MIG 'Railway Track Weathering' set, which has got the sleepers and track to an initial pleasing shade, although photographs have shown up some areas where I need to touch the paint in. Track weathered and point rodding fitted. I then moved onto the point rodding. After careful consideration, I decided to carry on using Will's stuff, even though it's slightly over scale. As it's at the back of the layout and there are only a few lines of it, I didn't think it would notice too much and didn't fancy getting involved with etched brass and the like. The Wills stuff was plenty fiddly enough! It's not perfect, but does look the part, and is my first proper attempt at point rodding, so I am pleased (although it has already been pointed out to me by my S&T friend that I've got a few of the bits wrong so it wouldn't actually work!). Point rodding and ground frame. The two points at the front will be controlled by hand levers, so I will to source these. Does anyone have any ideas where I can get some that are suitable? I then made a start on assembling some buildings to get an idea of how the layout will look. These are from the Will's range and are mainly of wooden construction, to represent cheaply built buildings on a small branch like this. The shell building at the back made out of old cereal boxes will be a corrugated iron warehouse, constructed with a foamboard inner and clad with corrugated iron sheeting. Will's goods shed and the quayside. I also purchased the first locomotives for the line, Hornby Terriers W14 and W13 (which has already blown my timeframe out of the water!). They're lovely engines and a massive improvement on the ones from 10 or so years ago. The next area for consideration is the front of the quay and what to clad it with. I was initially planning on doing this with DAS and hand carving stones. However, photo analysis of St Helen's Quay has led me to a potential re-think. I recently got my hands on the Oakwood 'Isle of Wight Railways' book, which contains a photo of the quay from the 1900s with a wooden clad facing (sadly I can't re-post here for copyright reasons). Furthermore, this photo from the Lens of Sutton collection shows the quay after rebuilding with a concrete facing and wooden posts, although I don't think this would look right for my layout. I'm now leaning more towards the idea of using coffee stirrers and balsa wood to replicate the wooden shuttering and bollards as on the original St Helen's Quay but would appreciate others thoughts on this too. This also creates the issue of how to get around the curve at the end of the layout. Any ideas? Thanks for reading!
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