Pete22

Hi, I have this model, which has run perfectly since I purchased from new and performed the solder modifications on page 37 of the thread .

Thanks JCL for your efforts to produce these excellent videos, much appreciated.

Hi thanks, I didn't realise it was different to Sketchup, RS Designspark etc, but I will persevere with it, especially if JCL intends to post some more videos, as I have a feeling I can follow his instructions more easily.

Hi, I downloaded Blender today and modified the settings as per JCL's short video. However I can't uncover simple stuff such as how to draw a simple line yet, so at first glance it doesn't seem very intutitive, unlike some other programmes that I have tried. I hope some videos are posted here to help us with model building & 3D printing. Meantime I will look again on the web for information/training though most videos seem to be based on previous versions. Pete

Hi , I tried Blender and others some time ago but gave up due to the complexity / learning curve. I like the look of the new Blander version and may give it another try. Your video is great, please make some more to help us . Thanks, Pete.

Hi Woko, These are really great buildings !, well done. Can you let us know what software you used to draw the buildings ? I am using Design Spark, and although it's good, drawing roof tiles & bricks is difficult, let alone making them realistic. Thanks, Pete...

Hi, Would have been better to see the other side of the PC board also. I assume there is a coil mounted on the other side of the circuit board, so if you attach a wire to each of the connection points that you have marked, you will energise the coil and create the magnetic effect that you seek... Pete...

I would try the solvent methylene chloride ( also known as dichloromethane), this is the main ingredient in old fashioned paint stripper, eg original Nitromors etc. I know it destroys cured epoxy resin ( eg Arladite) and will probably do the same to polyurethane, so worth a try . Pete..

Great, glad you have a way forward.... what about the new tablet , is it actually Windows or Android ?

Hi GR1947, The tablet that I suggested via the link that I posted is indeed Android , maybe you have ordered the Windows version by mistake ? ( as someone has said, the Z21 app won't run on WIndows). I still run the "old" app on my tablet, and it works perfectly. I may decide to update to the new version in the future, and I don't see any reason why it won't run on my tablet. Maybe you could return & exchange the tablet, if you have the Windows version ? Hope this helps.. Pete.

Hi, Yes I agree that on paper the iPad has a higher screen resolution, but when showing one's own photographs, or viewing photos on the web, the Fusion 5 screen really does display a very decent/high quality image, to anyone's eyes, unless they are a photographic critic. I can't say if the colour rendition is 100% accurate & true to the original, but does that matter is the image looks really great ?. 100% Colour rendition accuracy of course does not really matter when using the Z21 App, which was the subject of my reply and suggestion. Build quality of the iPad is second to none, but is this always really necessary ? considering the additional cost. Build quality of the Fusion5 is very decent and absolutely fine for everyday use. Pete.

I decided to take the plunge to buy one, never regretted it. I'm always amazed as to why iPads are so expensive, other family members have them but mine works just as well, but with the benefit of loads of sockets -full USB, HDMI etc. It always connects 1st time to my Z21. Build quality is good too and battery life is fine.I try to keep this tablet mainly for use with Z21 ( though I am replying using it at the moment). Well worth the money , and it works . Cheers. Pete.

Hi, I use a 10.1 inch android tablet , it's fast, has lots of sockets for everything including expandable memory by SD card and the big screen is perfect for the Z21 App, especially when using the layout / points screen -- try this link : https://www.amazon.co.uk/Fusion5-Android-Nougat-104-Tablet/dp/B078BJJ9KQ/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1532732999&sr=8-4&keywords=fusion5 Hope this helps, Pete

Hi Harold, My TT could sound quite rough sometimes, that's why I wanted to check it's lubrication internally. I have now applied silicone grease to the plastic cogs & brass worms, so plenty of lubrication taking place now. I only used the oil to lightly lubricate the motor spindles & the cog spindles at each end of the bridge. I think the way the cog spindles sit into their seats inside the motor housing is very basic and so I was getting some chatter sometimes when in use. Also the plastic cogs only just connect with the brass worms, so lots of play exists. The grease has in effect taken up some excess play, so there is now less movement and noticeably quieter running. I will inspect it again in a few months just to check all is well inside. Silicone grease is fairly inert, so (as I read) it should be ok with plastics. I guess the cogs are probably made of nylon for durability. Just back in from the layout tonight and I have programmed in all the exit tracks, each with 2 programmed numbers (normal & 180 deg turn), the TT now operates very well indeed, and I am pleased ! Thanks again for your help ... Peter.

Hi - Again, One last question, has anyone tried lubricating the TT motor / gears yet ?.....I would like to do this, and was going to use "Electrolube " loco oil for the spindles , and Vaseline for greasing the gear cogs , would this be ok ?? Hi Rob, Yes I think the track must be slightly out of trim, but as I seem to have a usable solution now, I am not keen to send it back to Heljan ( but let's see what they say).. The TT cogs should be unworn as the TT has hardly been used. Thanks once again..