Pete22

Hi, I have this model, which has run perfectly since I purchased from new and performed the solder modifications on page 37 of the thread .

Thanks JCL for your efforts to produce these excellent videos, much appreciated.

Hi thanks, I didn't realise it was different to Sketchup, RS Designspark etc, but I will persevere with it, especially if JCL intends to post some more videos, as I have a feeling I can follow his instructions more easily.

Hi, I downloaded Blender today and modified the settings as per JCL's short video. However I can't uncover simple stuff such as how to draw a simple line yet, so at first glance it doesn't seem very intutitive, unlike some other programmes that I have tried. I hope some videos are posted here to help us with model building & 3D printing. Meantime I will look again on the web for information/training though most videos seem to be based on previous versions. Pete

Hi , I tried Blender and others some time ago but gave up due to the complexity / learning curve. I like the look of the new Blander version and may give it another try. Your video is great, please make some more to help us . Thanks, Pete.

Hi Woko, These are really great buildings !, well done. Can you let us know what software you used to draw the buildings ? I am using Design Spark, and although it's good, drawing roof tiles & bricks is difficult, let alone making them realistic. Thanks, Pete...

Hi, Would have been better to see the other side of the PC board also. I assume there is a coil mounted on the other side of the circuit board, so if you attach a wire to each of the connection points that you have marked, you will energise the coil and create the magnetic effect that you seek... Pete...

I would try the solvent methylene chloride ( also known as dichloromethane), this is the main ingredient in old fashioned paint stripper, eg original Nitromors etc. I know it destroys cured epoxy resin ( eg Arladite) and will probably do the same to polyurethane, so worth a try . Pete..

Great, glad you have a way forward.... what about the new tablet , is it actually Windows or Android ?

Hi GR1947, The tablet that I suggested via the link that I posted is indeed Android , maybe you have ordered the Windows version by mistake ? ( as someone has said, the Z21 app won't run on WIndows). I still run the "old" app on my tablet, and it works perfectly. I may decide to update to the new version in the future, and I don't see any reason why it won't run on my tablet. Maybe you could return & exchange the tablet, if you have the Windows version ? Hope this helps.. Pete.

Hi, Yes I agree that on paper the iPad has a higher screen resolution, but when showing one's own photographs, or viewing photos on the web, the Fusion 5 screen really does display a very decent/high quality image, to anyone's eyes, unless they are a photographic critic. I can't say if the colour rendition is 100% accurate & true to the original, but does that matter is the image looks really great ?. 100% Colour rendition accuracy of course does not really matter when using the Z21 App, which was the subject of my reply and suggestion. Build quality of the iPad is second to none, but is this always really necessary ? considering the additional cost. Build quality of the Fusion5 is very decent and absolutely fine for everyday use. Pete.

I decided to take the plunge to buy one, never regretted it. I'm always amazed as to why iPads are so expensive, other family members have them but mine works just as well, but with the benefit of loads of sockets -full USB, HDMI etc. It always connects 1st time to my Z21. Build quality is good too and battery life is fine.I try to keep this tablet mainly for use with Z21 ( though I am replying using it at the moment). Well worth the money , and it works . Cheers. Pete.

Hi, I use a 10.1 inch android tablet , it's fast, has lots of sockets for everything including expandable memory by SD card and the big screen is perfect for the Z21 App, especially when using the layout / points screen -- try this link : https://www.amazon.co.uk/Fusion5-Android-Nougat-104-Tablet/dp/B078BJJ9KQ/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1532732999&sr=8-4&keywords=fusion5 Hope this helps, Pete

Hi Harold, My TT could sound quite rough sometimes, that's why I wanted to check it's lubrication internally. I have now applied silicone grease to the plastic cogs & brass worms, so plenty of lubrication taking place now. I only used the oil to lightly lubricate the motor spindles & the cog spindles at each end of the bridge. I think the way the cog spindles sit into their seats inside the motor housing is very basic and so I was getting some chatter sometimes when in use. Also the plastic cogs only just connect with the brass worms, so lots of play exists. The grease has in effect taken up some excess play, so there is now less movement and noticeably quieter running. I will inspect it again in a few months just to check all is well inside. Silicone grease is fairly inert, so (as I read) it should be ok with plastics. I guess the cogs are probably made of nylon for durability. Just back in from the layout tonight and I have programmed in all the exit tracks, each with 2 programmed numbers (normal & 180 deg turn), the TT now operates very well indeed, and I am pleased ! Thanks again for your help ... Peter.

Hi - Again, One last question, has anyone tried lubricating the TT motor / gears yet ?.....I would like to do this, and was going to use "Electrolube " loco oil for the spindles , and Vaseline for greasing the gear cogs , would this be ok ?? Hi Rob, Yes I think the track must be slightly out of trim, but as I seem to have a usable solution now, I am not keen to send it back to Heljan ( but let's see what they say).. The TT cogs should be unworn as the TT has hardly been used. Thanks once again..

Hi Harold, et all. It Works !.. I have now successfully programmed new/additional exit tracks opposite each of my existing tracks. These imaginary tracks allow an accurate 180deg turn by just selecting the new track numbers. I guess I have just been unlucky and my TT has an unusual inherent slight geometrical fault which prevents the inbuilt 180 deg turn feature from working accurately, this is a shame as in all other regards the turntable is an excellent & reliable model. I may contact Heljan about this, just to hear what they have to say !. Many thanks to all above, your thoughts and advice have been most helpful. Regards, Peter.

Hi HLT, If I understand your point correctly, I could try to program another track exit directly at the opposite side ........for example, keep main entry track 3 but create a new exit track number directly opposite 3 and call it 4 ?.....thus instead of doing a 180deg turn by pressing go-to twice, I would just select the new exit track number. Good thinking !.......this may work I will try this soon when I next get to my layout and will let you know how I get on.. Peter...

Hi Dunsignalling. If I remove & reverse the bridge, I can place it anywhere within the arc, so yes I could make it line up ( probably depends also on where the little drive cogs are aligned to the cogs in the well), but i'm not sure this would prove anything........ Hi all, - If there was a way to calibrate the position after performing a 180 deg turn, that would solve the problem ! Does anyone know what the position number is for where the cabin aligns to after a 180 deg turn ? I deliberately didn't place a track exit directly opposite the entry track 3........I think I read this somewhere, but now I cant find this in the instructions.

Hi all, So much good advice ! many thanks.. I have worked on my layout again tonight and :- Checked that the rails in the bridge are straight using a steel rule as a straight edge, they are straight using the rule. Added some code 83 rails at the opposite side to the entry track (track 3). Reset - calibrated - programmed track 3 - calibrated - programmed track 4 - calibrated. The photos below show that the bridge cabin end turns 180deg to accurately line up with the new rails that I added opposite entry track 3, BUT the non cabin end does not line up correctly with the entry track ! I also post photos showing what happens with track 4... I am loosing my mind trying to figure this out, and can't decide if the fault is firmware allowing overshoot, or if the bridge is skewed slightly in the well ?? Track 3 re-programmed: Rails added opposite entry track 3: Cabin moves correctly to new rails opposite entry track 3. Non cabin end now does not align with entry track 3 Track 4 Track 4 after 180 deg turn

Hi HLT, - I think it travels in the same direction when it does the 181 degree turn .... This fault has been there since I bought it, but although I noticed it I did not pursue it at the time, nor did I realise how badly it affects using the TT, I have been devoted to building scenery etc since I installed it very carefully. I finally started to place my locos on the layout for the first time the other night & tried revolving my Brit 4-6-2, that's when it derailed - so I investigated further. Hi Free At Last, - I think your fault is exactly the same as mine, yes you could try to move the rails, but I recon the fault is in the firmware (or the step counter) which is causing it to overshot by a step, thus equating about 1.5mm. Or I suppose it could be a slightly off centre pivot point in the turntable well........but more likely to be firmware / step counter ? Thanks, Peter...

Hi, Thanks. I really don't think it has anything to do with my programming regarding track stops. Either the bridge is slightly bent (I don't think so), or the 180 deg (steps ?) function is wrong ! i.e. it is adding another 1 or 2 steps thus making it overshoot consistently by about 1 to 1.5mm. In my photo 2 above, after the bridge travelled to track position 3 , then performing a 180 deg turn, you can see that it has overshot the exit rails at 3. I am using my TT being powered from my DCC rails (wired as per the instructions), but only use the Heljan control unit to operate the TT, not via DCC programming. N.B. Have you contacted the importers (Howes Models I think ) ? Or- have you tried contacting Heljan in Denmark ? It would be useful if any other owns of this TT could post a couple of photos like mine above, just to show that an accurate 180 deg turn is possible. Cheers, Peter.

Hi, can anyone please assist ? My Heljan turntable 89121 slightly overshoots by about 1 to 1.5mm when using the 180 degree turn function (pressing Go To twice). The TT works well and always goes accurately to each programmed track. This 1 to 1.5mm overshoot is enough to derail the bogey on my Hornby Britannia. I came across an old post that included this same problem, member Free At Last mentioned it in http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/54336-Heljan-uk-89111-turntable/page-2 . I have deleted, calibrated and re-programmed several times, but can't seem to cure this issue, so any advice would be most welcome . Here are some photos showing the issue :- Many thanks, Peter...

Hi Phil, Thanks for this information. I have a grey Multimaus (wired) and a LAN wireless Z21 Multimaus. I guess they are still using the original factory set firmware, so how would I update both units ? Many thanks, Peter...

Thanks, so 6 chuffs / revolution would seem to be correct, not the 7 chuffs that my loco seems to do.............I will make an attempt to change a CV when I get the chance, although I can see the possibility of messing up my sound file if there are more than one CV's to alter. I will let you know when I have a result . Thanks again. Pete..

Hi All, Can someone please advise what the correct chuff rate per wheel revolution is for a Pacific A4 loco ? - My Hornby Mallard A4 fitted with ESU Loksound V4 provides 7 chuffs per wheel revolution...........I think this is too many chuffs ! Also - which CV should I adjust to change it to a lower chuff rate ? Many thanks , Pete...