grob1234

Thats the view I take Steve. Different experiences are always useful, and often apply to more than one sphere of the overall hobby of modelling. Forums like this are a great way for people to share things like this in a way which wouldn't really have been possible prior to the internet.

Lead wire is very workable. Usually used in model aircraft making for the hydraulic lines etc. I get mine from here: http://www.modellingtools.co.uk/detailing-wire-lead-10787-p.asp

Jumper cables are exceptionally easy with lead wire

Thank you Jonathan. Jumper cables, should have known, I've seen that term used before! WRT the coach floors, you are of course right that the law of the sod dictates that something WILL come adrift as soon as its all dry! I suppose the OCD part of me wants seamless coach ends!! Using the MJT bogies I'd definitely be able to utilise the same securing bolt, for both holding the floors/ends and the bogies. Certainly worth more thought, and by the way this whole project is a total evolution of my thought processes as I progress through it, so don't be surprised if another idea pops up! I'll try and give Dart a call, I want my VAT deducted for non EU deliveries

Nice vid Mike, I saw it previously. Gave me the inspiration to maybe try a non Hornby product instead. Maybe one day!

Thanks Dominion, sadly the motor in my P2 is a sticky one

Hello, Hope you all had a good weekend? Just a little update. Using 0.3mm lead wire, and a new product (to me), I added the wires to the backs of the coach ends. Does anyone know what these wires are called, and what their purpose is? I used Gators Grip hobby adhesive. Similar to PVA, but seemingly more tacky with an instant grab like CA, but enabling you to move the part around much more before the glue goes off. Very effective for detail parts, and I will certainly be using this more in the future. I also shaped all the roof extrusions. I measured against each etch to get the correct length, and used a template to mark the bow end of the coach. At the moment I am around +0 to +1mm out (too long) but will take care of this when I come to making each individual coach by fling away the excess. Unfortunately, the extrusion for coach F is too warped, and I will have to replace it. I have taken great care to make sure each roof is square, using a 2in engineers set square. The thinking behind this is that if I start to introduce errors, however small then this could impact the good running of the coaches, and I will end up compensating errors all over the place in order to correct errors, which is time consuming and fiddly. Better to take my time and be accurate, rather than make a wonky coach rake! That's the theory anyway! I marked the centres of the roof sections, and the positions of the various vents from the Isinglass drawings and attached them using a well known 2 part epoxy resin. Unfortunately, with an ambient temperature of 26c, the glue goes off in around 3 minutes, so I had to mix small batches and work fast! I have found a solution to the flooring problem. The local hardware store sells lengths of aluminum strip in varying widths and thicknesses. Sadly, not the width I need, but using some about 18mm across, I can cut these to length, and bond the correct size plasticard floor to the aluminium strip, ensuring the floor is rigid and stays straight. I might even be able to do away with the white metal coach frame spacers, which will save a little weight too. The floors will be slid into the coach, after painting, and then the end will be epoxied in, completing the coach. Finally, I separated the wheels, tyres and axles for easier painting. I've already sprayed the wheel hubs with some Tamiya semi gloss black, and just need to add the white to the rim of the tyres before reassembling. As a side note, I am waiting to place an order with Dart Castings, and have sent them a couple of emails, alas with no reply. Is this usual for this supplier?

Thats a quality breakfast there! And I love the picture of the Abbey on top of the hill. Very moody indeed.

There's this one too: http://www.marcmodels.co.uk/html/silver_jubilee.html

I thought it was a model to begin with!

Mike, I think on all balance of probability that you are right with regards to the roof. However I have come to a decision as to how I'd like to proceed with this. I think I will use the roofs as supplied (though not necessarily original) for this build. There are a few reasons for this: Firstly, there is no chassis with this model. That means that it lacks the usual rigidity that a traditional chassis adds to a coach. I built a comet chassis recently for a Thompson coach, and its amazingly strong. These coaches don't have that, so by using this roof profile with the lip on the side, it actually acts like a chassis, only on top of the coach rather than at the base. Secondly, I already have the roofs in my possession, and therefore do not need to wait to order new ones, and lastly, to my untrained eye, the roof profile is very similar between the two, indeed I would never have known if you hadn't mentioned it. As I'm not aiming to build museum standard replicas, I am able to live with the roof profile as it is, and hopefully be able to build a coach that is functional and structurally sound. I hope this decision is OK with people! I really appreciate the feedback, and I'm already replacing the white metal bogie frames with brass in order to get better running. Blue Max - thank you for the information, they are quite a bit older than I suspected. Kind of like a forerunner of the Golden Age Models set then in many respects? Do you have any pictures of your completed Coronation set with Beavertail Observation Car too?

Hello. Just a small update today. Got all 18 sides fully complete today, that is tumblehome formed and lower fairing straightened to be perpendicular to the track. This took quite a considerable amount of time, and although not totally identical, I am pretty happy with the look of the sides: With regards to the roof situation; here is the promised photo. To my mind its pretty darn close to the plan, even more so when it is aligned directly on top of the black line. (Sorry for the poor flash lit pic). Whats the consensus? BR profile or LNER? I'm inclined to keep it, seeing as its so close... Thanks folks, hope to get a bit more done tomorrow, will be waiting on a parts order soon from MJT to replace the bogies.

You also have to consider how much an RTR rake of 9 coaches would cost. £50 per one, so looking at £450 off the shelf. I was very close to getting a mail coach set, but this came up instead. I couldn't really face the clear sides. I think lots of Tamiya masking tape, pre cut to size with a very sharp scalpel and a metal edge for the windows would be the best way to go. Very very tedious, but can't really think of another way to go about it.

I think I paid a reasonable price for what is like you say a pretty substantial bit of kit. 18 etched brass sides, 9 alu roofs, plus all the castings, wheels etc. What I can say is that a completed set (no.1 I believe) went for something in the region of £750 back in 2000... needless to say I paid nothing near this. Mind you it all depends on where you place the 'value'. For me, the building of it is the enjoyable part, so personally, within reason I don't mind spending extra money on it (and I will have to) in order to complete it to a reasonable standard. The real key will be to get the bogeys running straight and true, and to get the paint finish right. Thank you very much for the kind words indeed. Now you may or may not know that I don't actually have a layout at this present time due mainly to my 'foreign' location. Of course when it is complete it will certainly require testing on a prototypical layout of 1930's period, probably somewhere on the main north/south line that's on the right of the country.... I don't suppose you happen to know of such a layout do you?! Mike, I have been looking at those. I suspect you may well be right, but when I compare my roof sections to the scale Insiglass drawings I notice little difference. I shall post a picture later and you can see what you think...

We are bang on then... and we haven't even looked in the Mail yet...

If two sources say it is, then it must be fact!

Thats what I have in LNER Passenger trains and formations.

I'll check against the insiglass drawings... how would I be able to be sure? Also, what's the difference? Cheers Mick, those fairings will be bent tomorrow some time when I have cleaned all the remaining sides. With regards to peoples names.... what can I say?! Normally I don't know what day of the week it is!!

Hello everyone, thanks for the interest in this build and please keep the constructive comments coming in! I got all the inspection panels soldered in today. I'm not going to win any prizes for the quality of my soldering, but the joints are all sound. I don't think the close up does it any favours! One inspection panel was missing. No problem; just use some spare plasticard. 10 mins later, no missing inspection panels. I'm happy to use plastic here as it will not be soldered in this area. I have been experimenting with this stuff. Its what I intend to complete the trim and lettering in. Early days yet. As you can see, it doesn't like to be bent. I experimented with spraying over the top and sanding through the paint to the metal below. It worked OK, but I shall refine the technique for the letting; probably polishing down to the letters. The trim will probably be added after paint. I also made a start at forming the tumblehome, using the excellent forming jig my father in law made for me. It has two radii of curves for different coaches, and I also have a set of bending bars too. Quite simply place masking tape on the base of the jig. This has three purposes: grip, to protect the brass, and to enable me to accurately mark where to place the brass. Once the brass is in place, simply use a hard straight surface and bend as required. The result, accurate and perfectly formed tumblehome! Finally, a couple of mock ups to show where I'm at so far: Hopefully you will agree that they are starting to look like coaches already! Thanks for looking, there will be more soon.

Mick, there is a casting for the end bits, I think there is a pic of them in post 1. Jonathan, the soldering idea is fairly close to the one I have for the raised lettering... more to follow! Mick, there is a casting for the end bits, I think there is a pic of them in post 1. Jonathan, the soldering idea is fairly close to the one I have for the raised lettering... more to follow!

Yes they are in LNER condition.

Can I just reiterate: you have no idea of my modelling ability at all! You keep suggesting I will 'cock it all up'; you have no basis to say this whatsoever. If when finished, it does not meet your obviously exceptionally high modelling standards, you are of course at liberty to voice your opinion and say so. However, until then I request that you refrain from posting in this topic unless you have something useful to say.

I think the idea of 'sliding in' the floor plan is a very good one. I could touch up any small gaps at the end, but as you say it will largely be hidden by the articulation. I think the roofs will need to be affixed prior to this, as it will add alot of rigidity to the whole thing... I like those MJT wheels. My white metal bogie casting would fit given a bit of fettling...

Thanks John, thats exactly what I intend to do MJT do these which I presume Jonathan is alluding to: http://www.dartcastings.co.uk/mjt/2221.php Also available in 8'6 units too.

Hi Jonathan, Some interesting points you raise, thank you. They are plastic inserts for the floors, and indeed they are rather flexible. The fairings do indeed make inserting the floor after the sides a little tricky, I had considered reinforcing the floor with extra plasticard L sections to make it more rigid. The problem as I see it at the moment is the lack of chassis per se. Normally, coaches come with a chassis (in fact I have just soldered one up in the last few minutes) and that would provide the floor. These are different, and I shall be having a think about how best to make the floors. I was going to fix the roofs in place. The reasons being, I will be able to make the ends, and particularly the roof on the beavertail smooth if I affix the roof prior to painting, I will then be able to fill and sand any gaps that are left. WRT the bogies, I'll have a go at building the ones supplied, but do have a feeling that they will be tricky to align correctly, due to the material used. The insiglass drawings show that the 10' bogies go between coaches A and B and between E and F. All the rest are 8' 6". I'm happy to source replacements in the quest for decent running. With regard to the letting, this is what I'm referring to: As you can see, along the sides its definitely silver, but at the back, it looks lighter, perhaps Marlborough blue as per the sides, or white? What do you think?