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The Bigbee Line

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The Bigbee Line last won the day on December 20 2018

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    BR Southern Region O scale modelling, with an interest in HO US South Eastern Roads

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  1. After some work with a file, the holes are bigger... Then the bridle bars were removed and refitted. Here one solebar is removed to release the wheelsets.
  2. The prototype had 4 hole disc wheels.... I’ve made a start on the wheel inserts. Need to open out the holes. The bridle bars will also need some adjustments.
  3. Looking at pictures of tractors some were bright colours, but the muted colours seemed to better represent a tractor from the 1950s that was part of a farm move by rail. So out came some grey acrylic, using a brush I was able to get it into the nooks and crannies. There was a tip I’d seen used before where the bottom of the tyre was flattened. The vehicle then sits better. Out came the knife! Plus the tyres also got a brushing of grey as they are not black in service. While the brush was out the unpainted plastic on the wagon got a first wash over... What a transformation....
  4. I was fiddling around with some bits of wood. Playing at scotching the wheels. I think I’ll fit them glued to the floor with a couple of extra pegs. The Tractor wheels are going to get the bottoms flattened and lightened you.
  5. Getting ahead of the game a little. Here‘s the load. It’s a bit shiny at the moment, but will form a selection of wagons moving a farmer.....
  6. Spot the deliberate mistake.... Push rods the wrong way round. Now removed and refitted.
  7. I found some “good enough” V hangers in the scrap box. Using a piece of brass wire I’ve lined them up and cemented short lengths of evergreen tube in between. Now with some solvent applied they are propped with blocks while they dry. The brass wire will then be rotated to free it off and carefully extracted.
  8. Just added the wood blocks that support the end flaps on the buffers.
  9. I had another go at the ends. Cut the first hinges off and added the Mark 2 version.
  10. Test shot of end flap in position. I’ve also drilled the 4 holes in the sides. Looking at my picture. The bases for the wood blocks, that support the flap when down, don’t line up with the buffer pilot holes.. That’s because the holes need adjustment. Had the same problem when the buffers were fitted to the other end... I’d measured before the beams were adjusted for length.
  11. Tonight I cut out the end drop flaps, then added some strips of plastic strip cut from the lids of Costa drink cups. Tomorrow when set I’ll add the bits the go over the pins to hold the doors closed.
  12. With the twist sorted I thought I’d keep it straight. It was starting to look the part.... In one of my many boxes of odds and ends I had a few weights from HO models. One from a caboose was just the job. Fixed with 4 x 2/56 screws. Ends and brake work next.
  13. Today I’m rectifying an annoying twist. Being a modelling heathen I normally cure with packing between underframe and body. In this case it wouldn’t do. So I hacked out the low corner. Then after a trim it was put into position. So far so good.... Then the wagon was sat on a flat surface, the opposite corner weighted down and a wipe of solvent applied. In a while when the solvent has “grabbed” but not gone solid, I’ll make any alignment adjustments then sit back down to set up.
  14. Today Matthew I've been making some door bars.... This is the wheel bar on a Carfit wagon. It can be used at two different heights and anywhere along the length. There are leather straps to go around the axle and chains with rubber hose protectors to secure if required. In this wagon the traffic was probably new motor cars from Morris Cowley. The prototype for mine probably carried a more random selection of vehicles and wheeled machinery. I have therefore created a couple of faux wheel bars... The wheel bar is made from sprue w
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