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The Bigbee Line

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The Bigbee Line last won the day on December 20 2018

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  • Location
    Watton
  • Interests
    BR Southern Region O scale modelling, with an interest in HO US South Eastern Roads

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  1. Paul Thanks for the tip. Is it true for the different workshops: Doncaster, Darlington etc. I will now get drawn to this when I look at Pictures. I did note that later wagons have low level pipes. It would be good to be able to unravel the builders logic.. From a reality check point of view I would have a couple of observations: The LNER handed pipes as illustrated, it puts the pipe directly above the coupling. Other companies pipes are to the left hand side (proved to be wrong on that one I expect), so would cross over at some point under the wagon.. I did find one vehicle with the pipe appearing under the headstock on the right hand side and then running up and over the hook to the left hand side.. Never a surprise..
  2. I’ve a part built fruit van with brake work and safety loops on a plate between the axles. I’ll get it finished.
  3. Regarding pipe position. Both ends will be identical. The pipe will change sides somewhere.
  4. The Copydex stays rubbery for a week or two, then turns all sticky. So can easily rub off for this type of weathering. PVA has a bit more ‘sticktion’. I’ll give Copydex a try when home.
  5. Nipped into Lidl today in Cardiff. Came out with the above. Plus a the cutting disc set and a mini drill. Too cheap to miss.
  6. John I had some Maskol. Like yours probably 30+ years old. Would Copydex be a worthy substitute?
  7. I use .88 copper flex and ,88 paper clip wire. A jigsaw blade is the former The links are cut with a heavy duty Stanley knife blade. Watch your fingers. Then straightened. Sir Douglas gave me the tip to use the paper clips. Assembled as 2 copper and one ferrous link. The joints are soldered. They go nicely on Peco or Stensons Models hooks.
  8. John, Thanks for sharing your misfortune.. I am going to experiment by using a very small amount of grease on the buffers of one wagon... That's after I have chemically blackened the buffer heads....
  9. Parkside Southern Railway Buffers - As supplied with the Pill Box Brake. Does anyone think the springs are too stiff. The seem to get coil bound after very little stroke. Has anyone else any thoughts?
  10. Buffer shanks all done. So drilled some holes for the underframe. I had to trim some plastic from the ends. Here in place. I still need to do some packing to level off the wheel sets. Now sitting on its own wheels..... The roof has had another coat of paint, first on the new gutters. Couplings, buffers and door bars next.... It’s hard to believe it’s mainly card....
  11. The race is on to get the buffers fitted at the other end. I’ve decided on 2 bolts per buffer. The heads of the pin will get a faux hex head. Trimmed to length and bent over across the back of the card headstock. Here are the holes drilled... just waiting for a fettle.... The headstocks have the holes ready for the shafts. Fettled and glued. There are no springs fitted at the moment. The shanks are acting as locating dowels. The metal plate needs the slot for the coupling and some faux bolts. I’m going to use a Peco short shanked hook and Dapol screw coupling, with no springing..... So later on I can drill the holes and fit the bolts through the buffer shanks.
  12. After my crude but effective buffer bolts, I thought I would refine my skills. Most of the time I can’t really see what I’m doing. Maybe my magnifying lamp would help. Also some better focussed pictures.... These are the bolts as moulded... The with the bolt trimmed off and hole started... Keeping the drill square, the hole is made.... I used a larger drill to create a small countersink. Then pushed a pin through into some foam for a revealing close up. In the cruel close up you can see the bolt is over scale. I can file down the head of the pin, even making the prototypical hexagon head..... But it isn’t too bad as it is. I will cement in place to start and use two bolts on the diagonal.
  13. I have glued / cemented the buffers in position. Thinking about a mechanical bond would be an improvement I drilled some holes and use a couple of fine track pins as bolts. Crude but effective. When the excess pin has been clipped off, I’ll cover the pins with a plastic / solvent mix.
  14. John, What do you use to blacken your buffers?
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