Half way there.

 

Converted the motor unit, going to take a break before starting on the trailer unit.

The cab front windows needed a slight mod, the top of the window should be parallel with the bottom edge, and they should be slightly wider than they are high, ie. rectangular and not square.

I used the original Bachmann roof  to utilise the clips that hold it to the body. Removed all the roof detail, chopped off the front 15mm and stuck the front (15 mm) of the DC Kits roof on. I also modified the destination window on the DC kits roof to make it slightly bigger, and added a white LED to the destination window and red LED tail lights.

 

 

10 hours ago, Wagpnmaster said:

Thanks for all the replies, all gratefully appreciated. Bodywork is still having a few final tweaks before the top coats are applied. I had a look at Ford Laurel Green and it is quite close. How about the light grey roof? Is Ford Dove Grey a good match?

 

Lining seems to be a problem, not just with the Class 504, but other units too. I have the measurements somewhere, but generally the cantrail line is thinner than the waistband line. However, when Iook at available multiple unit lining packs, they only seem to be the one thickness. Am I missing something or just looking in the wrong place?

 

As for the Class 501's, that's a subject of a future build!

 

I used Fox cream lining, 0.5mm (cantrail) and 0.75mm (waistband). As for the roof, I painted mine in dark grey, Volkswagen Urano Grey, then sprayed with a matt varnish to take the gloss off. Sorry I don't know a match for light grey.

What year are you modelling? Going off the photos I have, the light grey roofs didn't seem to be around for long. Plenty of photos from 1959 when they were introduced with light grey roofs, then none till 1962 onwards, by then they all seem to be the darker grey.

I don't know whether they were repainted (I doubt it), I think they just got dirty.

Hi All

 

I have been asked a few times how my home made autocouplings work & are made......

 

Indeed at exhibitions it is by far the most asked question & normally involves picking up a wagon to show how it works.......

 

It's a relatively straight forward method the principal I came across when I was a member of Bodmin & District MRC.

Two members, Nick Swettenham & Simon Addlsee (Brigiesimon) used them on their goods stock.

Apparently they got the idea from Ian Rice,I assume from one of his books/publications.

The principle is their's but I have developed them & the end result is the couplings I now make are different to those they made.

 

 

First a couple of pics of them 'in action'.....In normal mode.....

Apologies for the poor weathering........

 

 

Then in uncoupling mode.....

 

 

The basic materials that I use are as below.....

 

 

The hook & loops are made from 0.45mm Brass rod/wire.....

I have used nickel silver in the past but the brass being  more flexible enables fine adjustments/tweaks to be more easily achieved.

The tube used for the pivot is 0.7mmID 0.9mmOD tube & is soldered to the hook.

I have found that by having the hole of the tube larger than the wire it allows a bit of vertical 'slop' which helps overcome any potential unevenness in the track.

The magnetic dropper wire is 30gauge  florist wire.

The square section plastic is used to provide a base to attach to the underfloor of the wagon.

It can be any plastic that doesn't show below the buffer beam.

It's main use is if fitting to open wagons as you don't want to drill holes in the floor & have the wire visible.

Also it means that you can make the unit up & just glue it in place after manufacture.

In some loco's it is not possible to use this & the couplings need drilling straight into the chassis or buffer beam......

 

Anyway I digress....

 

Next is a photo of the constituent parts of the coupling.....

 

 

I hope the pictures are self explanetry....

I make the hook in two pieces & solder them together.....This is because I have found that the wire quite often breaks when bent back on itself......

 

The 'U' shaped piece of wire with the tube soldered to it will be soldered to the top side of the hook & a piece of florist wire is fixed to the end loop to form the dropper...

I normally allow this to float free but it can be glued in a fixed position if required.

Trial & error will determine the length required.....

 

 

AS far as setting the hooks & loops I set them just behind the buffer heads.....

This is because I like to shunt buffer to buffer....Letting the buffers do what they are designed to do....

 

These couplings probably wouldn't work well if you require them to push with the hook actually pushing the loop....

There would be a tendency for the hook to lift the end of the next wagon off the track....

I try &  use a minimum of 3ft curves & they work fine,smaller radius would be a trial & error situation though beware of reverse curves....

 

Below is a diagram of them with solebars/wheels etc left out for clarity.......`

 

 

As regards magnets I use circular neodynum magnets 6mm x 2mm.....

They are quite small but very strong & require accuracy whilst positioning stock for uncoupling.....

So you need to go as slow as possible....But it adds to the fun.......

Because there is a small gap between the nose of the hook & the loop as the dropper goes over the magnet whilst being pushed you can see the hook jump....

Stop there ....

Reverse & the hook rises....

Go forwards again & the delay action bar comes into operation as it sits on top of the loop......

Push wagon to required position & then reverse away....

 

One point about the magnets......

Make sure they are aligned so that the same pole faces up.....

I have found that if you don't then after a while the dropper gets magnetised so you get the problem of same poles attracting & it won't uncouple......

The above is the basic idea.....All dimensions are how I do it but can be changed to suit your individual needs......

I've not yet found anything I haven't been able to fit one to....

Even my Hornby Ruston.....That required the coupling 'support' to be drilled into the chassis & glued in place.....

 

 

Hopefully the above is of use.....

 

Any questions don't hesitate to ask.....

 

Cheers Bill

 

 

Hi everyone, after a bit more help and advice please. This time its the Class 504 Bury units. I have acquired some DC Kits cabs and grafted them onto some Replica Railways suburban stock. I intend to turn these units out in original green livery. So, does anyone know what green was used? It looks like standard loco green to me?

 

Anyone have a good idea of the under gubbins? I've been trawling through photographs but as always, you can't seem to see all of it.

 

I have modified the cab windows and destination box and I think I'm about there. What does everyone else think? Do I need to do anything else?

 

All replies gratefully received.