RayEllis

For those wanting a side-by-side, here's my attempt to show them off. My apologies in advance, the closest thing I have to a camera is my iPhone - but you can hopefully see the differences. In the photos, the KMRC is always closest to the camera, Heljan further away. KMRC is distinctly 'greener', with correctly sized livery, as per the photo of 1363 in preservation. It has a satin/semi-matte finish. The Heljan is a much darker olive colour, with undersized shirt button, and (although not terribly obvious in the pictures) very glossy shine. There are numerous detail differences on the saddle tank alone. I'm afraid I have no idea what the various parts are actually called (vents?), with Heljan having details in the incorrect location or in some cases completely omitted. The fire iron brackets on the bunker are similarly less detailed on the Heljan model. I admit my photography won't be winning any awards soon, I do hope it proves useful to any of you who are still 'on the fence'. I stand by my earlier comments, I much prefer the offering from KMRC.

Long time lurker of this thread, now a satisfied owner of a 1363. My Kernow 1363 arrived last week, however last summer I acquired Heljan's version cheaply in a sale. Or rather, I acquired 2, as the original Heljan expired after a mere 10 minutes running. The short answer: Kernow's model is miles ahead of Heljan's offering. I'll try and upload a photo comparison. In terms of running, Kernow's 1363 initially ran with an audible sound, but following the prescribed running in period has quietened down considerably. As others have reported it is a very smooth running locomotive, capable of slow speeds. My (second) Heljan started out with a loud grating and grinding noise which has not reduced. It did not like slow speed use, constantly needing the 'hand of God' to encourage it to keep moving. Appearance - at first glance, I'd say the KMRC version looks a lot better. Going into details I can only speak for 1363, but (with the exception of the much discussed splashers) I'd say Kernow's looks bang on the money. It's difficult for me to put into words, but seeing them side by side, Kernow's 1363 looks like an accurate replica/model of the specific locomotive, whereas the Heljan 1363 looks very 'generic'. I'd say it's a generic caricature of the entire 1361 class - something about the Heljan one doesn't look quite right. The liveries are different too. Heljan's has a very olive-drab like colour to it, and the shirtbutton appears undersized. The motion has bizarrely been painted black. KMRC 1363's green looks authentic to the photo in post #1 for this topic, and the shirtbutton looks to be correctly sized. I'll try to upload a side-by-side photo. I'm glad I pre-ordered the KMRC 1363, in my opinion it was well worth the wait. I'm not sure what to do with my Heljan model, although the thought of painting red stripes across the saddle, a large '6' on the bunker sides and a smiley face on the smokebox door does seem oddly appealing...

This is possibly the most delightful model related news I've had the pleasure of reading in a long time, my thanks go to Hatton's for deciding to make these. So many of them seem so very, very tempting... A few suggestions, all Scottish. No.2292 of 1951, NCB No.21, Kinneil Colliery circa 1974 fits the description. Square windows (unglazed), solid back cab and the old style over-hanging roof. NCB green livery, but a little more elaborate decor on the tank: 'NATIONAL COAL BOARD No.21 SCOTTISH NORTH AREA' No.2259 of 1949, NCB No.30, Frances Colliery, Fife mid 1970s. Solid back cab, square windows. Livery same as NCB No.6. No.2296 of 1950, NCB No.17 has square windows, and the later style cab roof (the one that doesn't over-hang the sides), Bedlay Colliery, mid 1970's. No idea on colour (black and white photo) however I assume it's the same unlined green as the others I've mentioned.

It's a very smooth and slow runner. Can't comment on pulling power, however it is fairly forgiving of rough track. I'm in the process of donating the chassis to an unidentidfied white metal 1361 kit. For those of you wanting to use the chassis for another loco, you may find it necessary to remove the weights - which are fairly bulky and attached to the motor. The weights are held in place by a sticky adhesive and are easily removed - I managed to pull them off.

That sounds like it may be the problem. I've noticed a fairly noticeable amount of heat build up on a few of the occasions that my pug has stopped. (Placed on the palm of my hand, the pug was warm - something I've never encountered with any of my other pugs). I'll have one last tinker with it before I throw in the towel and take it someone who actually knows what they're doing

I'm afraid that the answer to both of those questions is a firm 'no'. This really has me stumped, I can't see anything obviously wrong with it.

No, they're definitely the correct way up (although I did have to check a few times to be sure). The pug isn't locking up when it stops, it just sort of dies. Like I said, removing it from the track and giving it a bit of a prod/shake and gently rocking the wheels is usually enough to get it working again, before it then repeats the whole process of gradually getting slower and slower.

In my youth I was something of a pug addict. I've thinned the fleet out somewhat, but I still have 5 of the things in my collection. I've found that the original Dapol ones are perfect - smooth, slow and fairly quiet runners. The Hornby ones however, are a mixed bag and various versions can differ wildly, but from my experience the 'older' Hornby versions had fewer problems in comparison to the more recent offerings. That said, I have a problem with one of the fleet - and it's probably because I was tampering with it (trying to fit an ARC Barclay kit, in my first and cautious foot steps into the world of kit building). It keeps stopping. It will start out running, then gradually the pug will slow down until it comes to a halt. Picking it up off the track, giving it a bit of a prod and a shake and re-railing it will get it moving again - but the same thing happens. This happens regardless of the direction it is going in or it's speed. Taking it apart and rebuilding it does not solve the problem. In fact, it can make it worse; the pug goes from running smoothly to bouncing around and stop-starting. (I've done this several times in the past hour, it alternates between smooth and stop-start). Can anyone offer any suggestions on what I've done, and how to fix it? (If it helps - It was a Dapol pug, late 1990s model. White metal weight added to the chassis around the front axle and the cylinders. The wheels and track are clean and the pick-ups are in the correct place.)

I received one of the 14" Barclays today as a gift - absolutely lovely looking kit of a locomotive I have always had a soft spot for. I'm very happy with it. However, I'm having trouble building it, as I'm not entirely sure what I'm supposed to do with the motor. I apologise in advance if what follows is a stupid question, but I'm completely new to kit bashing/building and such. Could someone explain to me exactly where I am supposed to cut the wires, and how/where I re-attach them? Similarly, I'd like to avoid soldering if possible - so how exactly do I "bind the wires together"? (quoting the instructions) Is this just a simple case of using tape to connect the cut wires back together? Like I said, sorry if this is all stupidly simple, but I have absolutely no experience of working on motorised models. Cheers. (If you'd prefer to PM the answer to avoid cluttering the thread please do)

This is the reason why (until now) I've never gotten overly involved in model railways - unless I want to build brass kits, there isn't anything on the market for me. While it's something I'd like to do, I lack the experience and skills to attempt making such a kit - and am also fearful of ruining an expensive kit. The ARC resins kit are a viable option for me (and finding them is why I've decided to start). As a Barclay fanatic, I'd happily jump on board any bandwagon calling for the 14" version being made RTR. I may be somewhat biased, but I think that the 0-4-0 Barclays have the best chance of success on the market, due to how widespread their use was and how many have survived into preservation. They're also very attractive designs. That said, at this point I'd be happy for any industrial RTR 0-4-0 saddle tank. Just so long as it isn't yet another repaint of the Caley pug...