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  • Location
    Melbourne Australia
  • Interests
    Currently only OO with an emphasis on what was the L&YR.
    Long term plan to build Werneth station post ww2 and before 1964 (To allow a mix of steam right up to DMU's) BUT with the original older goods yard intact.
  1. The most exciting part of this for me is a custom manufacturer actually producing something from a request. I model British OO but in Australia, I have added this supplier to my list as they obviously are enthusiasts too. Thanks
  2. altone

    A New Start

    this from acg_mr I agree that would definitely tone down that big black stripe and make it look a bit more true to life. Nice job on the cottages. Oh and don't forget to share the brewery decal artwork I'm going to try my hand at one or 2 custom livery decals for the Dapol LMS vent van - water slide on white to see how they go.
  3. altone

    A New Start

    I only have an Allsops beer wagon I picked up in a mixed lot. I think I might just have to bid on any beer wagons I see in the auctions from now on. The Wessex ones end up at nearly 20 quid a pop with shipping to Australia so I'd only get the odd one that way I think. I'll have to get a few though and schedule the beer train at least every hour as a reminder
  4. altone

    A New Start

    Wait what? You have a beer van rake - ooh got to have one of those, no matter how off model or how off topic. I may have missed it if you already posted an image, as I'm quite time poor right now, but I hope you might indulge me and post an image of your "beer train" when you can. Cheers when you can.
  5. I use empty - and extremely carefully cleaned Tamiya and Lifecolor paint bottles to store mixed and thinned acrylic paints in. They have a very wide opening which makes it easy to refill them and open them when you next want to use them. The Tamiya's are glass and lifecolor polypropelene, so you can see the paint colour - although I still dab the lids with a paint spot to be sure. If you are talking enamel paints I'd check whether HDPE and EPE are safe to use. HDPE is fine with alcohol but not acetone and turpentine so I'd do a bit of a search before you dump all your paints into those bottles then find 6 months later the bottles are melting and messing up your paint or even worse leaking on your bench. Oh and before someone chimes in "I've had acetone in a HPDE bottle for years" this from calpaclab.com/chemical-compatibility-charts/ Acetone LDPE / HDPE at 20C°-50C° - damage may occur. Not recommended for continuous use. Benzene LDPE / HDPE at 20C°-50C° - damage may occur. Not recommended for continuous use. Benzyl alcohol LDPE / HDPE at 50C° - immediate damage may occur. HDPE at 20C° shows some effect after 7 days of constant exposure. There's probably a paint solvent specific list out there somewhere. EDIT: I realised you said they were flourine treated - that's to give them better resistance to solvent's Are the EPE seals ok though - Better check. Cheers Gerry C
  6. Sorry folks, been busy with family issues and have done absolutely zero. However I did get a nice birthday present So hopefully the pics will be better now, especially If I unpack a tripod to use with it. And also bought a present for myself But Why this Bachmann? never happened - how about Man Vic? I know it's not technically 100% but it's a damned good model and as a local store was "having trouble selling it" It wasn't too bad cost wise (For Australia) So this post is just to let you know I'm alive and will post a "real" update in a few days. Cheers Gerry C
  7. Treading Water Been busy with other things, so not much happening on the model rail front. A4 update: Well, the degreaser finally broke through that black paint, so I scrubbed most of it away. No sanding marks - all looks good. Another soak and scrub and she should be ready for a repaint. So, where should I go with this? Just a repaint in BR green with numbers and linework? Get a whistle and some etched nameplates? [both missing on this unit] Try and detail it up? although it's the old tender drive unit so maybe silk purse sows ear. What do you guys think? It'll probably become "Sir Nigel Gresley" as I know it came to Manchester in 1965 and I'm thinking that's as close as an A4 ever got to Oldham in the steam years. Ok, I'm still melting paint off the A4 so let's look at the next victim project. Bear with me on the poor photo quality, I hear I might be getting a digital camera for my birthday later this month. A little industrial with wires going where??? seriously? I think it needs a tidy up. Dissemble, clean, resolder wires in a more appropriate manner, lube, and off to the auctions. Oh and remember I mentioned Lifecolor paints in an earlier post? I am now a fan, just have to thin more and add an extra coat or 2. The resulting paint job is not thick on the model and helps even out my terrible brushstrokes. Next kit: Well, after the not so good experience with the Dapol, I thought I'd try a Parkside kit for my next wagon. A BR 13 ton steel open wagon. On opening the pack, the quality improvement over the last kit was obvious. Brass bearings, no excessive flash and straight solebars. This should be a quick and easy build for Thursday night, which will be my first free time this week. Layout update: I have said before that space is tight at the new home, so even my smaller than planned test track needs to be "put away" when not in use. Initially it will be manually lifted and propped vertically against the wall, but as soon as I can manage it there will be a more elegant method put in place. The following system has been blatantly stolen, with permission, from a guy I've bought a few old carriages from. I saw his layout launching system and thought - yep, that's for me. (The name layout launching system c. yours truly) I originally thought of using a winch and pulley system to lift the whole layout up to the ceiling when not in use. I was a bit concerned that if a cable broke or came off a pulley, or I got the lengths wrong it would end in disaster. A Better Method - Vertical storage system Right, so doing it this way limits me to a total length of 2580mm in my garage otherwise it will hit the rafters. (unless I make an extra hinged area to the top or create addon boards, see later entries maybe) Current plan is 2440mm long, so all good. Here's a primitive plan. Inverted L shaped C Channel steel (actually 2 U channels with a flat welded to join them) bolted to floor and wall. Large wheels inside, mounted [very] sturdily to the baseboard. Central supports with castors/rollers to allow free movement and of course another set at the far end. Supports need to be braced and able to be locked securely into position. A winch with the cable attached to the far end of the layout allows easy setup. (You might think this is overkill but layouts can get very heavy and operators can get very lazy) So, layout is vertical. Open up support legs and lock in place. Use the winch to start lowering the layout. A bit of jockeying may be needed to ensure the layout is lowered ok. As we get closer to horizontal, the central supports touch the ground and act as a fulcrum, the rollers allow free movement. Once fully horizontal we can push the whole layout back to the wall and secure it. Note "central" legs not necessarily in the middle, more about centre of gravity, to allow easy manipulation. I hope my awful diagram gives you the idea. Because of the use of fulcrums and winches, my surround woodwork will be the old 4x2in structural timber. The rest will be smaller and lighter. "So how are you going to set up the layout before you get all that in place? " Hey, I grew up in Owdam. Anyone who survives that has to be fairly strong and tough! She'll be reet. (meaning winch system will be a key priority) Until next time Cheers Gerry C
  8. You know, it's nice too see a thread here that's not about counting rivets but encouraging more people to enter the market. Practically, I should be modelling N gauge but stuck with OO because it's what I remembered and my hands/eyes aren't up to actually modelling in N. That Cornish Riviera set looks pretty good too, although personally I'd prefer steam. The underbed layout is a great way to get kids using it regularly, on that note I'd suggest hinged legs with supports so it can quickly fold up and slide under the bed. (Much easier than unscrewing the legs at the end of each session) Also as commented on before, shunting and a run around might keep the new recruits happy for longer. Great job, and I hope you make sure when wiring up that it's reliable, Kid's just lose interest when stuff doesn't work straight away. Cheers Gerry C
  9. altone


    Nice job on the baseboard, looking forward to updates. Sorry if you mentioned it, but what size is the main board? I'm guessing about 6ft x 18 in if the curve to the fiddle yard is settrack 2. Gerry C
  10. altone

    Test Facilites

    Nice list of test features there, a few not covered in the loop test track I'm building, might just rework it a tiny bit to include them. Look forward to seeing more.
  11. So here we have the current state of play with the brake van. The roof is just sitting on top. If you're thinking the undercarriage is very green/grey you'd be right. [Hard to see from the photo] I just wanted to darken it before adding the couplers etc. I'm hoping overpainting the whole lot with black will give a slightly weathered appearance. If you think the bauxite is too light - I'm thinking of a quick black wash and rub over the top again for a slight weathering. Oh and the endboards will be painted a dirty brown to match a prototype photo I have. If you noticed there's a bit missing. Wheels and edges of desks do not mix well - I'll fix it up later. This van rolls far better than I thought it would with the soleplate issues. It might actually make it to the layout. I used Lifecolor paints for the body and roof and can't say I'm a fan so far, although it's probably just me being more used to Tamiya paints. I also realize just how bad my brushing skills are, thinning the paint and applying multiple thin coats seems to help. I'll post a final shot after I've fixed the break and done my first ever paint weathering job to it. It will be subtle weathering [assuming I can manage subtle - I've use powders in the past - not paint] First fixer upper: I bought this coach for the equivalent of around 80p. It's basic, out of my modelling zone and has a terribly stained roof. I pulled it apart to have a better look. Ok. all I'm going to do here is a quick roof repaint and a clean and service. clean up the roof with degreaser and paint it to hide the stains. Clean up the wheels and bearings and a tiny spot of oil. Then off to the auctions with it. Here's the end result. Pennypincher tip of the day: When I worked part time at a body shop, we would throw all the unused spraypaint into a "mud" tin. Well, all the non metallics, and only the paint that flowed from the spray pot. If you use 1 brand and type of paint - do the same for all those leftover custom colours you might not use again. We used the "mud" to spray over any patches of filling before final sand, prime and paint. The model mud could be used to check and adjust the airbrush, if it's dark, do a quick spray over light coloured plastic [and vice versa] before the final colour, or even for adding to weathering washes/sprays. Note: only use what quickly flows from the airbrush or mixing pot - Don't try and save any part dried paint etc. If you see any bits or lumps in the mud - throw it away and wash out the container then start again. Surprise visitor to the workshop: I'm guessing the wife got mad and started taking it out on the appliances - better them than me! The toaster wouldn't toast and the dairy door of the fridge was broken. Toaster - couldn't get it open, those security screws that screw in but not out - buy another. Fridge door, the pivot on one side was broken off. I drilled through the centre of the pivot and the door, then Araldited it together with a screw through the hole to strengthen it. Cover the screwhead with Araldite to seal it - done! One thing I've learned from the past - use the real thing, not cheap "epoxy adhesive" copies. Most of them don't come close, although I'm sure others do just as good a job. [avoiding flames from competitive brands] Another surprise visitor: This guy took umbrage to a sheet of emery I waved about and stung through it and got stuck. Needless to say I didn't help him. First loco fixer upper: I got this A4 really cheap because someone did this to it. Can you see the LNER under the paint on the tender? So get rid of the paint and start again. Hmm, my trusty red degreaser doesn't seem to do much to whatever this was painted with - works fine on model acrylics. I might have to try oven cleaner or brake fluid unless someone has a better idea.. If you've used brake fluid successfully, was it DOT3 4 or 5? I think 5 is silicone based so might try one of the others. Tools used today and not included earlier: Screwdrivers, pliers, tweezers, paintbrushes, wet and dry emery paper and paint. You all know what these look like. Araldite - No home should be without it! Peco Powerlube - No model train should be without it! Degreaser, brush and custom soaking bath Layout update and more on Friday...
  12. The Brake Van - Finally So here's the almost assembled unit, you might see a couple of rough spots but hopefully they'll be sorted in the prep and paint. I took a photo of it now as I'm going to paint the interior and undercarriage before adding couplers, footboards and other details. The Triang van alongside it shows how much longer and narrower the Dapol kit is. I had issues with the brake shoe pins, and one warped solebar. 2 steel washers were glued to the wagon floor to give it a bit of weight. (Yes I know, liquid lead - let me check the storage shelves.. nope, got some heavy washers though) Because of the baby fish, I'm going to try to handpaint this one. A bit of matt black, grey and bauxite, perhaps hilight the moulded rails with silver - easy as, right? Additional tools I used on this model Steel rule, good for checking straightness, can be used as a guide and heat sink if you warm warped plastic parts to try and straighten them. Also useful as a cutting guide and for measuring stuff. Blu-tak - you can test fit fiddly items and press them into the blu-tak - lift the blu-tak with small bits still in place, apply glue and fit back to larger item. Stops them moving around or drooping as the glue sets. Sticky tape - if clamps or blu-tak will not work - try holding stuff together with tape. Small wagon component box. As you may know, my work area is multipurpose, so I can't just leave unfinished items lying around. I found this clip sealable container just sitting in a kitchen cupboard - ideal for keeping all those loose and part finished kit bits together. There's another in the fridge that would be perfect for larger projects, but it's full of cake right now, so I'll have to re appropriate that one later Seriously though, any new folks who,like me, might not be able to complete a kit in one sitting, put the whole lot in a container. It's just too easy to lose that one little part .... WARNING!!! If you use a superglue type adhesive, don't put freshly glued items in with clear components. For those of you wondering why I'm including obvious things like blu-tak in this blog: I have worked in IT for decades and so often I'll go to fix up a simple problem when the user asks how I got that command level option to run, they'd read that this would fix it but couldn't get it to work. The instructions they'd seen skipped the simple step of opening command as administrator. Same here, nobody told me that blu-tak could help hold model stuff, I worked it out for myself. I found that the applicator from a makeup compact is great for applying weathering powders, and if the make up is dark enough, you can use it for weathering. I'm sure that's not totally obvious to everyone. Obvious may not be that obvious to some, so I'm including all the stuff I use as I go on my merry way. By doing so, I also might get comments saying "why use that when this is 10 times better/quicker" So, learning new methods on the way. Ok, next post, finished item and first fixer upper
  13. oh gawd - more family dinners?

  14. I purchased a used black five a while ago which is the Hornby railroad version R2881 Now this is not up to even my low standards, so I need a replacement. Nothing new in stock locally or at that scouse store so I'm going to try and buy a used one. I believe the R2857 is the model most think is pretty good, please correct me if I'm wrong. My question really is twofold. 1. Apart from very old models and the railroad versions which use the tender drive style tender. Do most of the others use the same basic mouldings or are there a number of different ones. In other words, from low quality images the R2857 and others like R2321, R2561, R2804XS look very similar. but I have no idea if they are of the same detail level in the flesh. 2. If the answer to the above is that there are numerous mouldings used, are there any easy ways to identify the "good" models - ie. loco numbers or specific obvious details. My aim is to create a reasonably close model with the addition of a detail kit and some mods as shown elsewhere on RMweb and I don't want to end up buying an inferior "starting point" model. Or should I just wait for the R3323 to be released? Is it a more detailed item than currently available or just a repaint? Any assistance appreciated Cheers Gerry C
  15. @redgatemodels - noo not the children! @buffalo not a joke and well tested. It will work, not as per the mockup, but as you say the regulator etc. on the out side of the tank. It took the compressor around 14 seconds to hit 15 psi with the tank in place. Oh yes, I have plumbed up the compressor, but not game to use it till the little fishies are a bit older and tougher. Gerry C
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