Lambolavis

Thank you for this info, worked a treat very much appreciated. I didn’t know these models had auto flange squeal though as it’s never worked on my model 😹

That’s awesome thank you, will give that a go later today.

Hi all, wondering if anyone in the know can help with a query I have, I’ve adjusted the inertia settings on an Accurascale Class 37 I have, always found from the factory they set off too quick for my liking. Since doing this I’ve noticed that when accelerating unless in very low throttle position it’s just full thrash all the time, whilst I do enjoy Class 37 thrash, I do really like a lot of the other engine noises that come with the factory sound at the various controller throttle settings. The query I have is does anyone have any idea how to keep all the different engine speed sounds across the controller dial whilst having the slower intertia settings or do I have to compromise and have warp speed but the larger range of engine speed sounds?

Thanks for all your help. I don’t have DC but I’ll figure a way to test it. as for decoder it was chosen because I’d read that some Decoders won’t fit in the loco but if it’s an issue any other suggestions will be of course welcome.

Hi there, recently got a Hornby Ruston 48DS model for my brother and it has some Very peculiar running. Very juddery almost stop start as it goes along the track. It’s DCC fitted with a Hornby 6 pin decoder. cleaned the track and had a mooch at the pick ups and all seems as it should be. any help appreciated.

No it’s a Legomanbiffo chip.

Finally got around to fitting sound to my old Bachmann RES class 47 and the lights are no longer working. As far as I can see wiring is fine and the switches underneath are all set correctly. The sound works and it moves back forth fine as well, not really sure what the issue can be. Only thing to note is this loco has been sat around with no body on for years. Plus my younger self was extremely ham fisted, so some of the prongs on the PCB are a bit bent but as far as I can see the decoder has located itself on to them correctly.

Forgot to thank you all for your help the other day, following this advice has resolved the issue. So thank you for all your help and you patience. I am just getting back into the hobby after a few years and forgot a great deal of it. I’m certainly in the camp of all the gear no idea.

Hi thanks for the tip, not too keen on doing a factory reset of the decoder being as it’s a sound decoder, not sure if that might wipe the sound files off it but maybe a last resort, it’s working fine otherwise. Just the lights won’t work.

Just changed the decoder number from the standard 3 to the number 2 on a Hattons class 66 since I done this the lights will no longer come on except for Park Mode lights. Any ideas of how to rectify this? I’m sure it’s simple and I’m just missing the obvious. for extra info it’s got ESU Loksound V5 with Legomanbiffo sound files.

That could well be it, thank you. I’ve not done any consisting before but it’s entirely likely I could have hit it by mistake. Will give that a go.

Hi all, went to have a bit of a play with the layout and my Hornby Colas class 56 has started playing up in a weird way. It’s got a Loksound V4 decoder(Legomanbiffo reblow) first tried to run it and all the functions worked fine, went to move it and nothing happened (not even engine revs increase in Sound which suggested it wasn’t the drive-lock function) so gave up and left it, went to move another loco, Hattons 66 with sound and that was working fine but as soon as I started it moving the 56 started to move too. Both locos are on different decoder numbers, 03 for the 66 and number 08 for the 56. The functions for the 56 still work when controller is controlling decoder number 08 but it won’t move unless it’s on decoder number 03. Any ideas and/or help to resolve this would be greatly appreciated please.

Apologies Richard I have located them now, they had some wires concealing them. Appreciate the help everyone.

I’m failing to find these SPK terminals, closest to the decoder is either side and they are M+ and M- which I would assume is motor positive and negative terminals.

I’ve recently acquired the latest Hattons class 66 and a suitable ESU Loksound 5 decoder plus EM2 speaker from DC Kits and I’m struggling to work out where to solder the wires from the speaker to on the loco/decoder(actual mental block) any ideas and help would very much be appreciated.