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Brian

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  1. Hi If your points are Electrofrog and you're using the Seep PM1 or PM4 (Note the PM2 doesn't have switching contacts fitted to it) then you can only feed one thing via the Seep motors switch such as Frog polarity It cannot feed other items. e.g. You would have to add some other means of additional switching to control say colour light signals etc where the Seep is used for DC frog polarity. Wire contact Pad 'F' to the point frog wire. Tabs 'D' & 'E' have feed wires from the rails above or the DC track feed wires. As the motor can be fitted either way around (180 degrees turned) its impossible to say that pad 'D' connects to the left hand rail or feed wire that feeds that rail and pad 'E' to the opposite rail or feed wire. If you get a short circuit when the point is operated or a train causes a short as it passes over the frog area swap the two wires around on 'D' & 'E' connections leaving 'F' wire alone as this always goes to the points frog. To note: The Seep PM 1. 2 and 4 motors need very careful fixing to the underside of the baseboard. Its vital they are absolutely in line with the points moving tie bar above, so as they move correctly and operate the internal switching where fitted. They are notorious for not being easy to fit correctly! My method is initially pre wire the motor with six wires about 60 to 100mm long each leading to a 6 way piece of terminal block. Then temporarily lay point in its final position and mark on the surface of the baseboard a spot made via the drive pin hole and with the tie bar/points switch blades held central from both sides. Remove point and drill baseboard drive pin hole to either 9mm dia centred on the marked spot or 2 x 4mm holes drilled side by side either side of the mark and across the points position, then open the two holes into one slot. Clean away any drilling swarf and lay point in its final position. Take a fine drill bit (about 1mm or smaller would be my choice) and with the point in one position drill a hole directly centrally in line and at the end of the moving tie bar. Move point by hand to other side and drill another 1mm hole in line with the tie bars end. Underneath the baseboard, with a pencil and straight edge draw a line linking the two 1mm holes, extending the line out beyond the holes each side. This line now gives the exact position of the tie bar and point above. Fit Seep motor ensuring its centre line running along its length is in the middle of the pencil line. Also don't over tighten the fixing screws. Fix 6 way terminal block to underside of baseboard near to point motor and wire.
  2. Yes, you can use Hornby Electro point Clips item R8232, using two clips per point Point clip by Hornby and only the one feed from the DCC system is then required as the clips (more link staples) overcome the Hornby points self isolating feature which isn't required on a DCC layout where all track sections are usually live regardless of the points position, Some Hornby points supplied in train set have them pre fitted. If your layout grows then consider using a DCC Bus pair of wires and smaller droppers connecting from the bus wires to the rails. Edit to correct typo.
  3. Hi I'm not sure if this drawing of a typical turnout (Point) layout is of any help with UK terminology?
  4. Hi Why not use the built in Amp meter on the Powercab to check current to track? Also, if using your multimeter it needs to be on AC volts or AC Current to read DCC power to rails. Not all domestic/low cost multimeters offer AC current!
  5. Double check that any feed wires on the problem track area are the to same handed rails as the rest of the railway. That is for example.... all working tracks have a red wire feed to say the right hand rail but the problem track the red is to the left hand rail - result short circuit when point is set towards the problem area. I have used "red wire" but it can of course be any colour, but the same colour needs to be connecting to all the same handed rails everywhere. Next, double check the problem area visually that nothing is causing a short across the two rails in that area. e.g. A metal buffer stop would cause a short or a screwdriver left laying accidentally across the rails etc. even a defective loco sitting on those rails! Edit... to correct spelling and add a missing word
  6. Switch? Panel switch or a switch fitted to the actual point motor? Next, what type of point motors? If solenoid, you will need to either fit an additional switch such as the Peco PL10 having a PL13 or PL15 fitted or use a Seep PM1 with built-in change over switch. Or fit a micro switch to the side of the point and the micro switches lever is moved by the points tie bar moving. Another alternative for solenoids is to use a latching relay wired into the points three feed wires. Such as the Gaugemaster GM500. You can't use the solenoid motors operation switch for LED indications as the switch for solenoids has to be momentary non locking type. i.e its contact has to open as soon as the switch is released. The other option for solenoids is to use a Point Position Indicator board such as the BlockSignalling PPI Link to typical PPI The major disadvantage with the PPI unit is it doesn't indicate that the point has actually moved, only that the operating switch has been moved. Where as a point motor operated switch will at least show the motor has moved over. For other types of point operation we really need to know what you're using. Some ideas on panel indications and wiring are shown here... Link to item
  7. It was great to see you all (and of course all the other exhibitors too). We exceeded all previous attendance figures. The 'Best in Show' award, as voted for by the attending public, was given to Ambleton Vale an N gauge gauge layout. Below, Chairman Brian Lambert congratulates Anna and Ray on winning the BiS award.
  8. Bump... But if you're in the area why not come to the model railway exhibition then visit the Towns Food Festival afterwards?
  9. May be best to scan and then post the instructions here so as we can help your further. Kytes lights do not appear to post their instructions on line!
  10. Faversham Model Railway Club. Two-day exhibition on Saturday 14th and Sunday 15th September 2019 at The Abbey School. London Road (A2). Faversham. Kent. ME13 8RZ 18 layouts. 12 model railway related trade stands. On site free car parking. By train approx. 8-10 minute walk from Faversham railway stations up side exit (London bound side). On site refreshments available. Disabled access. Admission: Adults £5.00. Children 5 and over £3.00 under 5s free. Opening hours: Saturday 14th open 10:00 to 16:30 and Sunday 15th September 10:00 to 16:00. Link to web site: Link to Exhibition 2019
  11. Hi I use these (Gaugemaster also use then on their DC controllers). They are sold in various current ratings usually from 1.0Amp up - Search web site for other current ratings. 1.0Amp Self resetting thermal CB 1.6Amp Self resetting thermal CB One CB is wired in series with one output feed from each transformers secondary output. Ensure you obtain the correct current rating for the transformer. As suggested by others, do get the power supply tested and inspected by a qualified electrician though BEFORE attempting any further use!
  12. So long as the AC is taken from a totally separate transformer or separate transformer winding, then no problems. However, you may need to increase the wire size of the common return wire.
  13. Hi The GM Combi is a little limited in power output (available current) as the wall transformer is rated at just 1.1 Amp combined track (locos) and accessories. One thing to ensure is that you allow around 2 seconds between each point switch operation for the CDU to reach a fully recharged condition, i.e. wait in the middle Off position before moving the switch to the next operating position Do you have any other transformer/power supply than can be used to feed the CDU input? Edit to add... Do ensure all wiring from CDU output to switch and switch to Seep and the return is in at least 16/0.2mm wire.
  14. Its possible that its faulty with one coil open circuit. But double check you're using pads A, B and C with C as the common return for both coils. A & B pads are at either outer ends of the motor and C is next to A. Also look for the possibility of soldering issues on the pads (dry joint) or the burning off of one of the pads from the motors copper PCB track. Can you answer the questions I ask previously too.. 1) What power supply is being used - its output voltage and type - AC or DC output . 2) Does the Seep work when removed from the baseboard/point and is in free air. If you provide answers to questions it really helps with a diagnosis. Seep motors are very power hungry and a good input volts to the CDU is needed, ideally a minimum of 16v AC. Peco motors (PL10) are not quite so power hungry and tend not to suffer so much from poor alignment issues that Seep do!
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