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Brian

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  1. Aren't we talking about DCC Control systems, not decoders or accessories which seem to have crept in? But no matter, did I not say " That is assuming they are actually assembled or manufactured in the UK," Many items are designed by UK companies, but are then out shopped for manufacturer in the far east or other low cost labour areas! So not really UK made.
  2. Hi The images of the switches on the Express Models web site Link here seems to look like 12 way rotary switches of single pole (SP12W) design. That is it ahs 12 positions unless you already have one that has 16 ways (positions)? Even if so a 12 way would be fine for all aspect types. You just need, as stated, to obtain a 1 pole 12 way switch and a suitable knob and remove the switches locking ring located under the bottom fixing nut. This then allows continuous turning of the switch. Cheap rotary switches can be purchased on eBay of from virtually all electronic retaile
  3. Isn't this a sign of current times? Imported items no longer able to offer a service or back up! I'm rather surprised that GM haven't been allowed to produce their own PCBs under licence from MRC, especially if MRC are not able to supply components and PCBs etc. I suspect GM and with their large sales base, will sort some of deal out with MRC very quickly. There are very few, If any DCC systems manufactured in the UK (other than ZTC, Hornby and SPROG)? That is assuming they are actually assembled or manufactured in the UK, which is often not the case! So concerns aroun
  4. Any Double Pole Double Pole (DPDT) switch will operate the motor. You will also need ideally a 12 volt Regulated DC power supply. For a Cobalt Classic, connect the 12v DC to the top pair of terminals on the switch. Then link top left tab to bottom right tab and top right tab to bottom left tab. Connect the middle tabs to the point motor terminals 1 & 2 on the Cobalt (Or 1 and 8 depending on the motor).
  5. Pleased to read you're progressing. As for Lamp brightness, you can trial a number of resistors in series with each other rather than jumping in and ordering one specific Ohm value then finding out the lamps are still too bright! As you have some 1K resistors, trial two connected together in series - end of one to the end on another the free ends connecting to the copper tape and the lamps wire as for the single resistor i.e. daisy chained together. This will give 2K (2000 Ohm) for two resistors, add a third to the chain and that then makes it 3K (3000 Ohm) and so on until you reached
  6. That power supply produces 8 Amps. That is way above most needs. In fact if your lighting needs more than 2.0Amp its probably too much! With 8 Amps available I would recommend you split the output into around induvial 1.0Amp sections, each protected by a 1.0Amp fuse or a resettable 1.0Amp circuit breaker. Thereby offering 8 x, 1.0Amp protected outputs. If you have a multimeter (and they are essential tool for fault finding and can cost less than £10) disconnect all lamps and then power up the supply. Set the meter to its DC volts range of 20v check that you're getting 12v to 13
  7. Hi If you have lamp 1 working correctly but lamp 2 doesn't work, why not unsolder the wire on the end of resistor for lamp 1 and connect lamp 2 lead to that resistor and of course the other lead of lamp 2 to the negative tape too. Does it light then? If not and with the resistor still connected reverse the lamps 2 two wires and retry. Does it light now? If still no light it may be a defective LED or lamp? If it does light, then rewire it exactly the same way back in place 2. If it now fails either your power supply is inadequate or there is a break in the copper tape somewhere
  8. I can not agree with these comments! If you cut the two closure rail link wires you should install some other form of frog polarity switching. This should be undertaken BEFORE cutting the two link wires. Pre planning should always be the fore. Never "well perhaps I might" or" I might not". Its I will do it this way... I don't care what S or X says, if the link wires are cut and nothing else is done the rails from the closure rail gaps to the IRJ on the end of of the Vee rails will become electrically dead. Period! Do not try and make matters far worse by saying adding
  9. Hi, Whatever you do do not cut the closure rails gap underneath the rails linking wires unless you have some form of frog polarity switching in use. Failure to ensure this and you will have a dead section from the gap in the closure rails to the IRJs on the end of the points Vee rails.
  10. Hi DCC Concepts recommend using a dual 12 volt power supply to feed the shunt signals. Regulated 12 DC power supplies can be obtain reasonably priced from around £6 up. Their web site shows the connection needed using their item DCP-SPS12 but it shows the connections for a Analogue ip motor not the Digital ip, but the motors contacts are the same (using 4, 5 & 6 connections) . Link to DCC Concepts LED shunt signal wiring with ip motor The alternative is to use a DPDT switch often called a Change-over switch to feed the shunt and manually switch its aspects or use a relay opera
  11. I placed this on another forum. It shows the very basic idea of a dual DCC Bus...https://postimg.cc/4m2r5CX6
  12. Get a better DCC system? Especially as you seem to be N gauge!
  13. Of course if CV29 read seven then you would reduce that by 1 or if it reads 39 you would make it 38. I didnt make that clear!! Sorry Post corrected. Ray H points the way in a much earlier post here. Of course if the link I provided in my original post to the CV29 calculator is used correctly then no such errors would be made!!
  14. Hi To reverse the direction of travel of a DCC loco, use CV29 and add 1 to whatever is read currently in CV29. e.g. if you read 6 then make CV29 value 7, if it reads 38 make it 39 etc. If it read an odd number - 7 or 39 for example reduce that value by 1 This CV 29 calculator is a useful item to bookmark. CV29 calculator link while its the 2mm scale Association the calculator applies to all scales using standard DCC decoders.
  15. Your twin speaker cable should be ok to use for lighting LEDs. You will need to ensure the positive feed wire is marked throughout - this may be by the insulation colour e.g. red etc or at times by a stripe/line on the one wires insulation. Just ensure you use the same wire throughout for the LED Anode (Positive) feed. Next comes the question of the need normally to add a series resistor. This resistor can be in either the positive feed to the LED or the Negative, it really doesn't matter. But do try and maintain a common standard i.e. all resistors are in the Negative (Cathode) L
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