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Brian

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  1. Stated in the WM1 leaflet the connector is 2.1 x 10mm Output: 16V AC @ 1.1 Amps @ 25 deg C via 2.1 x 10 mm power socket and cable. By the 10mm I think they are referring to the barrels length not its diameter
  2. A few days ago I sent MRC in the USA an email asking about their entire Prodigy range which shows most DCC items out of stock on their web site (Except for the 10AMp Elite). I asked was the Prodigy range being replaced or upgraded or was there some other issues that are causing the no stock issue both in the USA and here via Gaugemaster. While they didn't say what the cause of their problems were, they replied with the message below.... "We will have more Prodigy systems coming in stock. We're looking at around mid to late February for most Prodigy products. We do not have an
  3. The drawing supplied above isn't quite correct according to the Railway Modeller article February 2020 page 158. Cliff has the microswitch pin numbers shown incorrect. The Common tabs are 1 & 4 using his drawing numbering. Therefore 1 goes to Frog 2 & 3 to the rails. While 4 has the power supply +ve and 5 & 6 to the LEDs Anodes. Looking at the microswitch image it appears pins 1 and 4 are slightly further way from 2&4 and 5&6.
  4. Correct re ink wire on the Hornby R044 lever It should have not been shown! Just the Yellow wire in either narrow sides port and the middle hole for the other yellow wire . Drawing above amended.
  5. Here is a drawing for both Peco PL26 and Hornby R044 Black lever. I haven't shown the two power wires for the signal for drawing clarity.
  6. When using a suitable CDU and input power supply you should have no problems with either Push to Make non locking press buttons or Sprung to centre Off Toggle switches or even good old fashioned Stud & Probe selection. However, do ensure if operating two or more solenoid motors from one switch/PB or Stud & P that you ensure the feed wires are robust in wire size. My recommended minimum is always 16/0.2mm especially for Seep motors that are quite power hungry! Where two (or more) solenoids are operated together from one switch etc then increase their shared common return
  7. Yes you can do that. (Its my web sites drawing BTW) You're looking at using a sort of common positive CDU bus connector then from that wired to each switches middle tab from the connector. No problem. But do ensure the feed wire from the CDU to the Bus and those from the bus strip to the switches are in at least 16/0.2mm equipment wire or a larger wire size where two motors are to operate from the one switch. You can do the same out on the layout-in several places if need be and connect each Seep "C" pad to the common connector, linking one connector to the next. So as one wi
  8. Hi Before you start taking the wiring apart, and as you're a DCC user and have by the looks of things Electrofrog points throughout. Plus you also have rail feeds to all rails, you need to ensure you have Insulated Rail Joiners (IRJs) installed in BOTH vee rails leading away from all electrofrog points, not just those points that are opposing. If you have metal joiners on any Vee rail end replace them with Nylon IRJs Place them where I have shown the red line cutting across both rails... (Plus of course anywhere else off the picture).
  9. As suggested by Nigel above. The cause is the short circuit or the power surge at switch On/Off producing a momentary spike on the DCC rails/bus and causing the older and "fragile" decoder to reset to its factory default. Most (if not all?) modern decoders have now overcome this. Fitting a resistor and ceramic capacitor across the DCC bus pair or the rails if no bus is used will help. The components and how to is shown here if its of help? Link to Bus Filter
  10. In addition to the corrected drawing above. A Servo control board needs just two wires to operate the Servo one way then the other. So one wire will connect to the Cobalt motors common change-over switch contact tab 6 from the Heathcote Servo board and depending on which way the point/motor is to operate the servo the other wire will be on tab 4 or 5, not both. So in the drawing remove the Brown wire and connect pink wire to either 4 or 5
  11. Aren't we talking about DCC Control systems, not decoders or accessories which seem to have crept in? But no matter, did I not say " That is assuming they are actually assembled or manufactured in the UK," Many items are designed by UK companies, but are then out shopped for manufacturer in the far east or other low cost labour areas! So not really UK made.
  12. Hi The images of the switches on the Express Models web site Link here seems to look like 12 way rotary switches of single pole (SP12W) design. That is it ahs 12 positions unless you already have one that has 16 ways (positions)? Even if so a 12 way would be fine for all aspect types. You just need, as stated, to obtain a 1 pole 12 way switch and a suitable knob and remove the switches locking ring located under the bottom fixing nut. This then allows continuous turning of the switch. Cheap rotary switches can be purchased on eBay of from virtually all electronic retaile
  13. Isn't this a sign of current times? Imported items no longer able to offer a service or back up! I'm rather surprised that GM haven't been allowed to produce their own PCBs under licence from MRC, especially if MRC are not able to supply components and PCBs etc. I suspect GM and with their large sales base, will sort some of deal out with MRC very quickly. There are very few, If any DCC systems manufactured in the UK (other than ZTC, Hornby and SPROG)? That is assuming they are actually assembled or manufactured in the UK, which is often not the case! So concerns aroun
  14. Any Double Pole Double Pole (DPDT) switch will operate the motor. You will also need ideally a 12 volt Regulated DC power supply. For a Cobalt Classic, connect the 12v DC to the top pair of terminals on the switch. Then link top left tab to bottom right tab and top right tab to bottom left tab. Connect the middle tabs to the point motor terminals 1 & 2 on the Cobalt (Or 1 and 8 depending on the motor).
  15. Pleased to read you're progressing. As for Lamp brightness, you can trial a number of resistors in series with each other rather than jumping in and ordering one specific Ohm value then finding out the lamps are still too bright! As you have some 1K resistors, trial two connected together in series - end of one to the end on another the free ends connecting to the copper tape and the lamps wire as for the single resistor i.e. daisy chained together. This will give 2K (2000 Ohm) for two resistors, add a third to the chain and that then makes it 3K (3000 Ohm) and so on until you reached
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