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Everything posted by Spotlc

  1. I think to some extent it depends on the period of one's interest. Many of the illustrations in the book are of buildings and styles which have disappeared, but which could easily be appropriate to a considerable timespan, say from the 1920's until the 1960's. True, they are largely sketches rather than dimensioned drawings, but there are some accomplished modellers on this forum who have convincingly demonstrated that with careful and sympathetic interpretation these sketches can produce the most delightful and realistic models. The same can be said of card kits, either as downloada
  2. "it's fairly coarse, not great to apply, dries too quick, and is a bit crumbly" This is the classic description of what is known as "dead plaster" Caused by the powder gradually absorbing water from the atmosphere, and also all plasters of whatever sort have only a truly active life of about 12 months. They can be used after that time, but will never set properly. Not too important for a model railway, but try doing it on a partition wall!! Best, Mike
  3. We must be careful that Grahame's thread doesn't turn into pages from National Geographic! But here is the Baptistery: Not a stone's throw from St Pierre Cathedral which also has a spectacular facade: Best, Mike
  4. I should perhaps add that this hospital is in a steeply wooded valley, with a lake at the bottom, and this was the view from my window on Christmas day morning! l have also just seen an Heron dive into the lake for an early lunch, so it's not all bad!! Mike
  5. Wrenn, Keith, thank you both for your kind words! I've only got my phone at the mo, and I don't keep pics on it 'cos they take up too much space, but if I have to stay here much longer I'll get Jan to bring in the laptop so I can post a few more pics. But, I'm crossing my fingers that it won't be necessary!! Best, Mike
  6. Nice little city though, Notre Dame la Grande has one of the very few Byzantine facades in France, and has been supebly restored recently, and the Hotel de Ville (town hall) is a tour de force! (And the only model shop for miles around!)
  7. Give it a whirl then! The nearest shop to me that sells it is in Poitiers, which is a 120 mile round trip and they don't have a big selection, so the post is cheaper than the fuel and parking!!
  8. Grahame, out of curiousity I registered with the Redutex site and put a couple of items in the cart. I live in France, and the postage was 8.99 euros, so I imagine that after the Brexit thing it could be prohibitive to post to UK. I have heard horror stories about import duty and UK vat being added to things without warning, so ordering direct maybe not such a good idea after all! Best, Mike
  9. Terry, this is truly inspiring stuff! I've always thought that many of the illustrations in John's book would be great to make, and this is just the incentive I need! Bravo! Mike
  10. Work on Alma Terrace, (and everything else,) came to an abrupt halt in mid November, when I had a pre - planned operation in the University hospital in Limoges. All went according to plan, but four days later I had a massive heart attack! Long story short - pacemaker fitted, 18 days in intensive care got me bump started again, and I'm now in a recuperation hospital learning to walk again! Not quite what I had planned for the festive season, but at least I survived,and although I won't be able to contribute here much for a while, I'll still enjoy reading the various forums.
  11. Why not buy it direct from the makers, they have an English language site: https://tienda.redutex.com/en/gaugescaleh000modelingtexture/1094-064ac111-sidewalk-8435570202561.html Mike
  12. Smart Models do a nice download, quite complex to make but very realistic http://www.smartmodels.co.uk/rail18---girder-bridge.html Mike
  13. Chips with Everything! Terrace nearing Completion! For all sorts of reasons, I didn't take many pics of building the chip shop, but it is just the standard Scalescenes Corner Shop, which has several usage options - chip shop, greengrocer, pub, etc, and can be built in either right or left hand versions. This was printed out at 76%, and built more or less as per instructions, but I made the roof section removeable, so I can detail the interior later, and there will be lights in the shop and in the flat above. I ommited the rear yard and shed for reasons of space, and
  14. Lower Down The front wall of this model is removable, so I was able to get the camera almost at ground level, which produced a rather different view of the yard. Taken in natural daylight. I’m no great lover of flash photography for models – it often produces harsh black shadows – but it does have it’s uses and one of them is to produce artificial night shots like this, almost the same scene as above but taken using the camera’s built in flash, and a very brief exposure. Both pics 75mm lens on Sony A-100 Cheers, Mike
  15. Photo Play The pannier tank has pushed a few wagons into position in the yard. Taken with a 75mm lens on Sony Alpha. Here's the same scene, but this time in monochrome and taken with a 105mm lens from the same position. Just for fun, the cold winter morning version! Cheers, Mike
  16. I seem to be on a bit of a photograph roll with this model, which I haven't really done much with since it reached a useable state over a year ago. At least, nothing to improve it, but I have had a lot of fun discovering what it's limitations are! I feel much more at home with still photos than videos, so I'll gradually put up a few more pics taken at various times and with various digital cameras. They are not razor sharp in every plane, or super detail revealing, and that is deliberate - I don't mean to sound pretentious here - but I've tried to use the model as the basis
  17. Hi Keith, thanks again for your encouragement! You are too kind - it looks better in the pic than it actually is, and you don't want to know how long I really spent faffing about with it! Your effort for the Cakebox challenge looks excellent, and I'm enjoying your revival of Union Station. Cheers, Mike
  18. Keith, many thanks for your kind words! Given the right equipment and a bit of experience it's possible to create many different impressions of the same scene - if you want to produce realistic pics of model trains it's best to use a medium telephoto lens, say 75 or 100mm equivalent on 35mm film, and keep the camera near track level. Having said that, I mostly don't bother, and use either the camera on my cheap Chinese phone, or a little Canon Ixus, simply because it's easier! You need very small apertures to keep everything sharp with a 75mm lens, so the exposure times are long, so y
  19. Grim Little Place II Thanks for the likes! Colour photography only became widely used in the UK in the 1960's - until then most photography was in monochrome, so I thought you might like to compare these two otherwise identical images. I quite like the colour version - the slight haze evokes the reek of diesel exhaust as the Gronk rumbles past, not helped by the Ford Thames Trader having been left with the engine ticking over! No - you wouldn't want to work here! I de-saturated the colour pic completely, and gave it a bit of gentle warm
  20. Hi Kevin, thanks again for your kind words! I started do do these because although I love the Scalescenes designs, It isn't always necessary to have all the elaborate detail of the building's interior, so I have tried to combine the best of the facades and roofs with a quickly made support core. In fact, it's not that quick, and I need to do a bit more work to get it right, but worth going on with, as my Dad used to say! Cheers, Mike
  21. Grim Little Place! This model was built largely as a platform to try out different construction techniques, and I never paid a great deal of attention to the overall appearance, but I suppose deep down I wanted to get away from the "perpetual summers day" look, and capture some of the more workaday atmosphere of the small railway yards that I remember from my youth. I was born and grew up in the City of Gloucester, which had locomotive depots of both the former GWR and LMS companies - these were great places for boys to to prowl around, and I did! There was much to fa
  22. This gives an idea of how the terrace is assembled - the foam cores are glued between the walls, a strip of pastel coloured paper is glued into the window recesses, and then the front wall, complete with glazing, door, curtains, blinds, etc is glued in position as a single unit. On the right are base wall templates cut out, ready for the printed brick covering to be stuck on, and the window sills to be fitted. I used Prittstick, or similar glue stick, for a long time to stick the cover sheets on but I am increasingly printing the cover layers on the self adhesive paper that is sol
  23. Thanks for your encouragement, John! Yes the Brassmasters windows are very good and ideal for 4mm, but sadly they don't exist for 3mm! To be honest, this is a fairly tedious way of doing it, but the results are very satisfying, and it beats the pants off printing black windows on OHT film! Oh for a printer with a white ink cartridge, which would make this almost redundant! Your 7mm building looks lovely - I've always been afraid of 7mm - it would show up my failings to easily! Cheers, Mike
  24. Hi Pandora, thanks for your interest. I've always mixed my own, but you can buy it ready made in UK as "Button Polish", French Polish", or "Sanding Sealer" I'm sure there are other suppliers, but in UK I always bought shellac flakes from either Fiddes in Cardiff, or Industrial Plasters in Chippenham. Rough proportions are 100g of flakes to 1 litre of alcohol for a light lacquer, 200 g/litre for medium and 300g/litre for a heavy brew! Crush the flakes before dissolving in alcohol, which takes a few hours - and best left overnight. Any transparent alcohol will do - methylated spirits or is
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