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  1. I'm back to my normal slow speed now after that flurry of activity Soldered the splasher front however part of it came unstuck during cleaning, it' a bit like a wobbly tooth. I think it's stable enough for me to get inside and solder from there. Nothing de-soldered so that was one good thing. made the tender chassis monstrosity a bit more ugly. Added a bit of bracing and epoxied some copperclad for picks ups. Don't know if it will work or not, but it was really quick to put together. It will need some weight adding somewhere. I think I'll be ma
  2. I'm getting a backlog of photos and that so Not much different to last video but with half the body on, I was checking the driver clearance on the splashers, seems okay. There's another bit of fishing weight just forward of driver axle though you cant really see it. It still needed 2 pound coins in the cab so need to replace with weight under there, and some in smokebox to replace the coin there. Hastily did another rear piece for the tender, haven't found the original bit yet which I expected to find ten minutes after doing the new one.
  3. Thank you. I've got 188 and 144, and I think I did the outer part of the splasher in 188, so technically I should be okay with 144, but things never seem to work that easily. I've got a temperature controlled iron, not sure of wattage, but it's quite controllable and holds heat well. What I'm going to do is solder something else (scrap as suggested) in 188 then gently turn the iron up until it melts the 144 but not the 188. Then do it for real. I'll get some of the lower melt solder too next time I order something from Eileens or wherever, I keep meaning to and forgetting.
  4. thank you Simon. I had two new tyres last month, bit annoying as I could have got some weights. The front 4 as a bogie now has 2 votes so it will definitely be tried on the next one. The 3d bodies weigh a lot less as well, so I think weight will be even more important.
  5. Thanks Northroader. For this chassis it's a bit beyond changing much, I'm hoping that enough weight will keep it going for now. The track it runs on will just be a straight run for quite a few more years I imagine, and it'll just be thundering through the station. The other 3 half built chassis are the ones I'm going to experiment with for the 3d rovers and maybe this body, but it's having time to do it all. I like the bogie idea, I'll certainly be able to add that to one of the chassis.
  6. Thanks. It's a shame the spin doesn't match the wheel rotation. I'll put the microwave on when I do next video, see what that sounds like
  7. Apologies for the mess and washing machine noise in the background. The test track has done pretty much what I wanted from it, it's small enough to leave up and let me test the rover chassis without having to keep packing away and unpacking. Still need to wire it up, cut breaks in the pcb and add the standard gauge rail. I added various weights, the stuff on the right is a fishing weight but it's not really heavy enough - there's a piece hidden at bottom between driver and rear axle, and a few pound coins here and there. Bit of a slip at the start but it seems okay, but it does need more
  8. Thank you. I've used blue tac before, but I was never sure about the fumes when it warms up. The biggest problem is getting a joint without a mess of solder over the visible front, as there's not enough room to get the iron inside it. I did think about using a stack of card to bridge the gap and pre-tin the outer edge of the valence. I think MikeOxon did something similar on his blog.
  9. I was going to test the rover on the test track, but if you look closely the front wheel is slightly in the air. I don't know if I've squashed the chassis a bit or it's stresses that have made it warp or what. I'll open the bearings out a bit and as it's got guitar string pushing down on the axle, it will hopefully be okay. The chassis to the right are half (ish) finished for the 3d models in quite thick brass, I can always use one of these if the warp is terminal. The bit I've been really putting off doing is the driver splasher front, leaning against wheel in photo.
  10. Spent a bit of time at allotment as weather wasn't that bad, so did less the past two days. The weather shield is too high by a few mm, it's also too wide so I'll have to take a bit off to get the right shape. The cab side panel on the right needs a piece of beading adding to the top. I've tried to saw a tiny piece of brass, but it's hard to keep in a straight line. Underneath is an old piercing saw blade, but I don't think it would solder very well. I think either way this is going to be one of the things that when you solder it, everything else de-solders, I'll give
  11. Thanks Mikkel. I think until they're painted I won't really know. I don't know if the different surfaces will affect the final colour either. Although the 3d prints are smooth, it will be porous. I probably ought to do a little test paint. I think the worse case would be running complete trains of one material or the other.
  12. Did a bit more to the test track I forgot to solder wires to the rails, and one of the copperclads isn't quite long enough, but it's nearly there Back to the splashers. The one on the left is from the abandoned corsair kit (remember that?) that's 4mm wide but the splasher side is recessed by 1mm, so it doesn't look quite as wide. The one in the middle I've thinned down to 3.3mm (ish) and I think it looks better, the one on the right is 4mm but marked with 3.3mm. I might have wasted 2 hours gently filing it, but I feel better with it now.
  13. I couldn't agree more. Just caught up with the thread, it's moved on very quickly. I'm more than a bit jealous of the speed you work at. Really like the plan, and those fourgons are giving me all sorts of ideas.
  14. I always liked the idea of swap shop. I haven't got anywhere near even thinking about wagon yet, but that should get me started. I'll Pm.
  15. No soldering today, some of the bits need a little work before the next round. Put the bits together. The splashers look too wide to me, I did them 4mm which is well over scale, but the wheels (2mm wide) need a bit of movement. I'm guessing I need to take it down to 3mm. It's fairly rigid now it's soldered so shouldn't bend while filing it down if I'm careful. The footplate (that you can't really see) needs narrowing where the wheels are by a bit. And the weather shield looks too high so I'll have to check the photo and diagram again, probably just need to chop a bit o
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