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rynd2it

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Everything posted by rynd2it

  1. Of course, but it would be good to switch ends every now and then
  2. Yes, it's just a rough outline for now Thanks
  3. I quite like that idea, thanks. I will have to make my own as I am modelling in EM gauge, needs some research.
  4. I'm planning a GWR branch terminus layout based on Faringdon and I am thinking about the fiddle yard. To keep expense and complexity down and provide maximum storage space I have decided a traverser of 5 roads is probably the way to go. 90% of the locos are going to be typical GWR pannier tanks which just need to change ends on the train but I also have a Dean Goods so I would like to be able to turn it round. I want to minimise the BHS (big hand in sky) and physical handling of the stock but I need a train length of 3 coaches or 10 wagons plus loco. All has to fit on a 4' x 2' baseboard.
  5. I have just obtained a replacement motor for the Parcels version and I'm also adding DCC, the Hornby is DCC ready. And then converting to EM gauge as well. I did find a good link for head codes: http://www.uksteam.info/gwr/hcodes.htm so two whites would seem appropriate for the Hornby and maybe a single white for the parcels DRC.
  6. That's very helpful, thanks. My model period is likely to be immediate pre or post- WWII, so still GWR, and the two railcars I have are the later ones, not the original streamlined one. One of them is the Express Parcels - I'll check the head codes for that one. Thanks David
  7. Yes, I know that but which of the middle lights are used to indicate red, the lower one by the logo or the one above the windscreen?
  8. Yes, as I said above. But how were they used?
  9. On closer examination, the Hornby version has the lower lights painted silver on both ends, a red light in the middle just below the windscreen and another just above the windscreen not painted. The Lima version is similar but no paint on any of the lights. Now to find out how the GWR actually used them.
  10. You may well be right, problem is that I can't find an image of the rear of one any where. The Hornby one has one end with the lower lamps painted red. Confusing
  11. Thanks for that but it uses separate LED for red and white. The railcar seems to have only one lamp (or pair of lamps) each end which glows alternately red or white depending on direction of travel. In 12" to 1 foot gauge this is probably a dual filament bulb but the only bi-colour LED I can find is a 2mm one which may prove to be too large. Anyone done this on regular diesel loco for example?
  12. I'm willing to bet there is a simple answer to this but I can't find it. I have a loco (actually a GWR railbus) which will go in either direction and I wish to add lights to both ends such that when going forward to front lights are white and the rear red. When in reverse the lights should change accordingly but how? Thanks David
  13. Thanks for all the input, very useful stuff indeed. My main reason for getting into DCC was to reduce the amount and complexity of the wiring after my last project (an OO9 layout with 27 turnouts, working semaphore signals, lighting etc). If I plan properly on my next project it should be much simpler. Once again thanks, all questions answered.
  14. How would you differentiate between chips & decoders? Just curious
  15. I have just discovered that the 860044 is not a chip but a blanking plug. I need to buy some chips
  16. Thank you both for the input, JST I might take you up on that invite one day soon, you are about an hour away.
  17. I have just started to use my first system - NCE Power Cab starter set. I have three DCC fitted locos, one runs great with no problems. One of the others is a Bachman Branch Line 64xx GWR tank loco with a Lais-DCC chip (6-pin) 860044. When it sits on the programming track it buzzes on DCC power but runs fine on DC. When I investigated it appears the chip was in upside down so I reversed it but no change in behaviour. This is also happening to a Hornby Rail car fitted with an anonymous chip marked 1606-X001; again it runs on DC but just buzzes on DCC. I acquired all these second han
  18. I'm not trying to create a frog polarity or even make them live. The problem we have is, as clearly stated in the OP, is electrical connection between blade rail and stock rail. In quite a few cases, when switching the point the blade remains dead. The solution is wire in tube and DPDT slide switches. Case closed, thanks
  19. No, not with these old points. Cutting blades cuts them totally free with no base
  20. As I said at the beginning, the turnouts are a mix of live and insulated frogs, they are old and therefore the bonding wires are not there and the track is already laid down. So I need a method that connects one blade to it stock rail while disconnecting the other blade from its stock rail. DPDT switches would do this but how to use them? The two methods suggested seem to indicate wire in tube and slide switches is the best option. Thanks all,
  21. How do you switch two blade/stock rail set with a SPDT?
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