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rynd2it

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Everything posted by rynd2it

  1. The labels indicate they are suitable for air brush or regular brushes
  2. Coming back to this topic as I've discovered a repeat of the problem. I have acquired a set of air brush colours from Vallejo plus their grey primer. I tried to use the primer with a brush on plastic kit parts (Wills signal box interior) and the same thing happened, just ran off and didn't stick. I'm beginning to think the plastic has some coating on it which is preventing the paint from sticking but if so, what is it and how to safely remove it?
  3. I've come up with Plan 'C' - brain working overtime in the middle of the night! If I move the Goods Shed much closer to the point on the near siding, I can create a space for the timber yard at the end. The loading dock can have a small crane for unloading timber wagons etc. Minimum disturbance to track work and I think it looks OK. Any comments?
  4. Thanks for the input - I may just ditch the weighbridge altogether. I'll build the timber yard first though just to try it out.
  5. The buildings are basically finished - just waiting for lighting before sticking the roofs on. Here is the completed set placed on my 009 layout. I'm not convinced about the location layout, the white rectangle is where the timber yard would fit and the little hut at the back is a small scrap yard. The weighbridge and it's office are not very prototypical or practical. One solution would be to shorten the siding the building is on right now and move it to the back siding giving more forecourt room and visibility. I was intending to use the back siding as a carriage depot but on such a small layout that might be overkill and the shortened siding would be sufficient. OK, what do you all think - I'd appreciate any input here
  6. Thanks for those two pieces of information. In the N gauge kit, they seem to want you to use the external platform as an end loading dock to the track that runs through the shed. It would seem to make more sense to place it at the opposite end to the office as an extension to the internal platform. I see some interesting experiments in my future 😉
  7. Actually it isn't, the weigh bridge is separate The external platform is a brick platform 120mm long - look at the instructions on their website
  8. I'd be very interested in anyone's input on this kit which I'm about to start on. Any pictures of the completed model in situ on a layout would be very interesting to me; especially if they show how the external platform has been used. I keep looking at this part and wondering how it was intended to be incorporated as it just seems to be a stand alone part and not connected in any way to the main building; logically or physically.
  9. Ten would be more than adequate for what I have in mind - is there a wire spec (like the 7/0.2) that I could look for?
  10. What would be the smallest recommended wire size for connecting a few LEDs for lighting the inside of 4mm scale buildings. Up to now I've tended to use 7/0.2 but in a couple of cases I need something smaller to hide the wires. They'll be powered by 5v dc regulator.
  11. I do have such a sketch but it was for an older layout I no longer work with. Given my experiences with that layout I would not use an Arduino Nano or Uno alone, they are far too susceptible to interference and several signal were damaged by start up 'twitches' - sharp move to 180 degrees and back. I'd take a good look at the MERG offerings, especially EzBus which greatly simplifies things.
  12. Get it with factory sounds, you won't regret it 🙂
  13. I traced them to Poundland so you are right, I used some black from my wife's set and it worked fine
  14. I have a set of acrylic paints in a box of about 20 and have no issues with them except drying out in the tubes over time. However, as part of a club evening regarding painting and mixing, I acquired these two tubes of black and white paint but I'm having great difficulty in applying them. Regardless of whether the plastic surface is primed or not (worse if not) these two colours just won't stick - it's like painting with water, the pigment just runs off and won't cover anything. What is the possible problem? Are these paint just not suitable? Any help appreciated
  15. Thank you very much, exactly what I needed 😀👍
  16. That's the style (approximately) but they are expensive - €16.49 each plus shipping at €7.99. I need about 6 of them so over €100. However, if you can tell me the width and depth of the buttresses on those, I can replicate using ply and printed sheets Cheers
  17. It's a fictional place, maximum height of 10ft . I'll have had a look at some products but all seem to have arches so far Thanks all
  18. I knew someone would say"depends " and of course it does. I was hoping to find a source of basic dimensions as a starting point.
  19. I'm planning a stone retaining wall for a large part of my OO9 layout, I'll build the structure from card or thin ply and cover with a stone paper. However, I can't find anywhere what the dimensions should be in relation to the buttresses - how far apart and how think the buttresses should be (width and depth). I don't want "railway arches", just a wall with supporting buttresses - anyone suggest dimensions or a source of such dimensions? Thanks
  20. You might want to think about alternatives - a single frog juicer can cost around £30; I operate 11 turnouts on my layout using servos and microswitches for less than the cost of one juicer. £330 for my layout would be WAY beyond the realms of possibility, especially if SWMBO found out ;)
  21. Its a solution which has worked for some - bit pricey though. How are you activating the turnout?
  22. All mine are the same, not a problem
  23. The Double Fairlie runs fine as it is, as does my Baldwin and a Roco shunter. None of them require any modifications to the standard Peco 009 points. I had done mods such as cutting the blade rails as recommended elsewhere and it was a disaster. I bought all new points and all the running issues went away. Again as mentioned elsewhere 009 trackwork really needs to be laid to a very fine standard, slightest kinks/bumps etc will cause poor running; its well worth the effort to get it spot on. You should arrange for the frog to be polarised and switched independently of the blade/stock rail contact which is unreliable. How you achieve this depends on how you actually move the blades - I am using servos and there are two microswitches on the MERG servo bracket, id you are using the Peco point motor add the switch that Peco makes to the motor. Or you can use a slide switch to operate the blades via 'wire-in-tube' and the slide switch operates the polarity.
  24. That happened with mine at first, sent it back to TMC and they tested and adjusted it. Now it runs fine, the problem is caused by the pickups actually losing contact with all the wheels on one side, they adjusted the pickups. A stay alive would probably help but there is no room for one.
  25. Mine ran perfectly out of the box and I bought it factory sound fitted. No pick-up issues at all on Peco Y turnouts but they are live frog and polarity switched. To be honest I've not heard any problems with these locos at allo.
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