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Posts posted by rynd2it

  1. 9 hours ago, cliff park said:

    Surely the easy answer is a flywheel. Electrically the other way is a great big capacitor, BUT it would always have to run one way.


    If there's no room for a chip where do you suggest I put a flywheel?  These locos are tiny and the bodies are full up with motor & gears etc,


  2. I have a couple of areas on our 009 layout (isolations at platform ends, return loop isolations) where I would like the loco to slow down rather than coming to an instant and abrupt halt. I would prefer to add this to the locos rather than the track especially on my shuttle 'ends' as the same track is also used on regular DC control rather than the shuttle module (Block Signalling SSA2) and can be switched between the two. Interestingly one of our locos - a Roco HOe 009 1:87 baureihe BR99 does have this feature but I have not figured how - it is DCC ready but not chipped. Most of the other locos are too small to fit DCC chips.

    Any ideas?


  3. 18 hours ago, hayfield said:

    I think you are far better off rebuilding it rather than just painting it. My own preference is to use low melt 70 degree solder for the larger parts, I use an Antex 25 watt iron on the larger parts and a good (industrial strength) super glue for the smaller parts. Any gaps I fill with Green Squadron filler softened with liquid poly (so its nice and runny) or Milliput leaving both for 24 hours before sanding


    If gluing is your preference rather than two part epoxy, initially I would go for mitre bond (2 part superglue) or an industrial grade superglue, for larger parts the joint can be strengthened with 2 part epoxy behind the joint


    I think you will find its a blessing in disguise, even if it makes a bit more work 




    Mitre bond available from the likes of Wicks/B&Q/ Screw fix etc and is used by those fitting kitchens and windows, in 2 parts one the glue the other an activator (aerosol or marker pen)

    I got my industrial strength super glue from a tool shop, in a bigger bottle and far stronger) mine is Ever Build Stick 2 others are available 


    Definitely a blessing in disguise and I appreciate the tips on glue & solder - thanks.


    I haven't done the tender yet so I guess it's back to the Dettol, may as well get my money's worth ;-)





  4. On 07/05/2019 at 16:38, rynd2it said:

    While sorting out the wheels etc, I decided to strip the paint as it's too thickly applied and shiny. I wanted to do it without using a chemical that would break the glue joints; I asked around and was told to use Dettol - it works and it can be strained afterwards & reused. Useful tip



    Update, wear rubber gloves - my hands smell like a hospital :(


    • Informative/Useful 1
  5. 2 hours ago, Brassey said:

    I've built a number of Dean Goods including one which started as a K's.  For info, High Level gearboxes come as a flat etch and need forming and the bushes soldering in and filing down to fit within the frames.  You'll need a reamer or broach to open out  the bushes to get the axles to fit.

    Thanks for that - more knowledge added to my ever-growing list ;-)



  6. 4 hours ago, hayfield said:



    Strange in 4 mm scale I am also converting to EM gauge, I have 3 of these, one was the first kit I bought which I will keep, I have a Perseverance chassis fpr an EM example and I will get round to selling the third some time


    I have plenty of Romford 21 mm drivers for the EM gauge one, I do have a GW models wheel press once I start to use Gibson's  I have converted another K's loco to EM gauge simply by sticking a piece of 40 thou plasticard to one side, then drill out the axle holes from the other side, repeat this on the second side and the outer frames are fine for EM gauge, using black plasticard saves painting, just use Romford?Markit or Gibson wheels with EM gauge axles. For my own use I would still bin the motor, if using the High Level gearbox no worries about gears


    As for your worm gear I thought K's were push on and had a brass sleeve, if so it may be a Romford worm, if so I have no idea about the ratio


    The more I research this, the bigger the project is getting (now where have I heard that before!) - and now I am hearing quite a lot about how the old K's kits weren't that great to begin with. I might just go with the OO rebuild, I can always stick it on Ebay and start again with a more modern detailed model. I'll decide later when I have finished looking for bits



  7. Hi John,


    Thanks for all the help and advice, it really is making this into a do-able project. I'd actually found the High Level kits and had decided on the slimline gearbox. Very reasonable pricing too.


    Next off, I plan on stripping the chassis right back and de-rusting everything and seeing what is salvageable.


    I'll keep you posted and with some pics if that's OK.



  8. I'll be testing the motor tomorrow but I will have to completely strip the running gear to free it up. The worm gear has a grub screw in it and I'm told the axle gear wheel was plastic and probably split and fell off. A modern motor & gearbox is on the shopping list but I expect I'll get a nice working model for under £50 (I hope)


    Thanks for the help





  9. Hi and thanks for the reply.

    I have no idea which chassis version I have - other than the fact it is rusted solid. I have attached a couple of pictures which might help.

    The tender is in much better condition and runs really nicely. They could both use a repaint but stripping the old paint off without removing any glue might be a problem - I don't really want to strip down as much as you did.







  10. 11 hours ago, eastglosmog said:

    If you want to see Autocoach rooves in typical prewar service condition, try this website: http://www.warwickshirerailways.com/gwr/gwrbsh1793.htm

    Beware, though, it is a very addictive site and you can spend hours wandering around it!

    The basic pigment of the white lead paint that was used is Lead Carbonate (2PbCO3.Pb(OH)2).  According to current wisdom,  It reacts with Hydrogen Sulfide in the air to give grey Lead Sulfide, which is why white lead painted rooves turned grey with time.  I do not know if coaches stationed permanently in country districts with clean air went grey at a slower rate than those permanently based in sulphurous towns, but would imagine this could be the case.

    An idle thought: If you are planning for your layout to cover a period of 5 years, say, you ought to have 5 models of the same coach, each with a slightly darker shade of grey roof and use them in succession to represent the aging process with the passing years.


    Now that is really helpful and definitive enough for my purposes. Thank you and thank you all for your contributions.



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