rynd2it

4 minutes ago, Torper said:

I may not be as fussy as others, but I find that after soldering using Carrs Green label flux a quick wash of the model under the tap using a toothbrush and possibly some cream cleaner is quite adequate.  At the end of the day, and if the model fits, I also usually immerse it in an ultrasonic bath (one of the cheap ones from Lidl) to which I've added some specialist flux removing fluid and that ensures that all is perfectly clean for painting.  Incidentally, I find that provided I keep the soldering tip clean through use of sponge and/or brass wool, there's very seldom any need for tinning compound.

 

DT

Bit difficult washing control panels & track under the tap 

So rosin it is for me

Thanks again, order in with Amazon (UK) for all the flux, brass wire and tinning compound.

Thanks for this, but raised a couple more questions.

Is the rosin flux no-clean and what did you mean by "tinning compound" for the tip cleaning?

I have done quite a bit of soldering in the past but I've never been really happy with the results. The last layout I worked on I was using some RS 5-core 22swg 60/40 lead solder and Fluxite paste; both of these date from the 1980's when I used to build computers.  I have a Duratool variable temperature soldering station with various bits.

My main problems always seem to centre around the temperature which is either too high and melts the plastic in DB-25 multi-pin connectors or not high enough so I tend to leave iron on the work too long.  I'd like to address these issues with a little help.

Firs off, I think I need to purchase new solder and flux (!) and maybe a smaller 25W soldering iron with smaller bit. I expect I'll need a no-clean flux as some areas will be impossible to wash out.  I'll mainly be soldering onto small switches and to nickel silver track; not likely to need the multi-pin connectors again as I'm going DCC.

What would you all recommend to buy and for temperatures?

Thanks in advance

9 minutes ago, JimFin said:

One will do but as explained, two are better.

Never found that necessary and cannot really understand the rational given the close proximity and lack of twist in Cat5 network cables which carry complex signals without problem.

I run the bus to terminal blocks and take groups of droppers from those.

Sorry - Cannot help with that.

ESU Servo Pilots work very well and are simple to use if you go the servo route.

 

Thanks for all that, I'll look at the ESU servo pilots although I have used Arduino before for signals.

The DCC Concepts guys were absolutely adamant that twisting the bus wires would solve the Cobalt lost addresses problems - it's on their forum. But I'd never seen it anywhere else hence my raising it here

17 minutes ago, MartynJPearson said:

 

Certainly with the size of my layout (round the wall in a 12' x 10' room) I've never had any issues with spurious signals; anything unexpected happening has always been down to user error! For longer runs, maybe a twisted pair for longer runs to link boards connecting to terminal blocks to which droppers can be routed? (Thinking out loud there, as I haven't done this in practice)

There was a long discussion on the Cobalt forum about the point motors losing their dcc addressing as a result of spurious signals and the twisting of the power bus was recommended plus having other wires cross the power bus at 90 degrees.  Hence my questions above.

57 minutes ago, MartynJPearson said:

My only accessories are points controlled by MERG boards, so for the accessory bus I just run wires between each of the boards - no twisting or anything.

 

I was told the twisting helped eliminate spurious signals, nothing to do with shorting. I was concerned that if the bus wires are twisted, soldering droppers could get difficult.  And I have looked at the MERG boards and I do like the idea of an 'analog' panel controlling dcc signals and points.

I'm planning a layout 4mm scale about 16 feet long, 2 feet wide, single branch line into a terminus and goods yard, fiddle yard at the other end. It has 8 turnouts and a couple of signals for which I am thinking servos/Arduino or Cobalt for the turnouts.

1)  Do I need both a power bus and accessory bus, or will one bus do?

2)  I have read the bus wires should be twisted or separated by a wide margin - if twisted how tight and if separate how far apart? Does this apply to both busses (if I have two)?

3)  If the bus wires are twisted, how best to attach droppers?

4)  I have an NCE power cab starter already so answers above should be compatible with this

Thanks in advance

David

Thanks for that piece of insight - I'll source a transformer and a DC controller. Easy enough to switch between systems with a DPDT switch.

Cheers

The NCE Power Cab starter system, it seems to claim it can control DC-only locos. Is this true? I need to test both DC & DCC fitted locos on my test track and it would save me buying and wiring a separate DC controller/transformer.

Thank in advance

David

Hi again, starting to get settled here and now looking to at least socialize with fellow enthusiasts.

Colin, if you are about text me or call on 0761265011

David

I will miss this one, we don't arrive in France until Wednesday and then it's all hands to the pumps with bank appoinments, notaires, CPAM etc.

I will be in touch later though

Thanks

David

Thank you all for the input, most useful. Although where I'll find time for modelling with a house to do up I don't know ;-)

10 hours ago, Foulounoux said:

We are Chabanais  (Foulounoux to be precise on the Chirac road) also (albeit holidays only.

 

 

suggest you talk to the team at Confolens  l'association Chemin de fer Charente Limousine who are restoring the line but also have English members . They may be able to provide details of anything more local 

 

 

 

Regards 

 

 

colin

Thank you Colin, and good to know the line is being restored.

We'll be there in September I think, maybe a meet up?

David

Thanks everyone for the input - research begins

I'm about to move to France, Chabanais 16150, and being an active modeller I'm looking for any clubs etc within a reasonable distance. Limoges and Angouleme are about equidistant at 1 hour driving and that would be fine.

Any help or pointers would be much appreciated

Thanks

David

Thank you Nigel, that is all very helpful

12 hours ago, Colin_McLeod said:

If the loco is always coupled to the same coach then one option is to put a motor, with flywheel, in the coach where there is plenty of room.  This can power the coach wheels with the loco running with no motor at all. A sort of "tender drive" with a coach instead of a tender.

Good idea but that doesn't fit the operational model - unless it was an Auto-train

13 hours ago, WIMorrison said:

 

13 hours ago, WIMorrison said:

You can install a DCC chip

No I can't - see above

DCC is not an option with this layout, it's wired with a 4-CAB DC system. How small? Joueff P10 tank loco is one of the bigger ones ! Believe me I have looked at adding chips and/or capacitors; about the only way would be with a permanently attached coach or wagon and that is not operationally an option.

Trackside detectors and a control circuit is probably the way to go and something I will need to look into in detail. I'm familiar with Arduino programming as I use them for the semaphore signals and for point control on another layout. Integrating this into the existing controls for reverse loop polarity change might be interesting. There is another idea I'm playing with - a switchable series of resistors and diodes in the slow-down area which would gradually reduce the voltage over a few inches of track. This is the most attractive option as it is independent of rolling stock. Much research and thinking required

Cheers

David

9 hours ago, cliff park said:

Surely the easy answer is a flywheel. Electrically the other way is a great big capacitor, BUT it would always have to run one way.

If there's no room for a chip where do you suggest I put a flywheel?  These locos are tiny and the bodies are full up with motor & gears etc,

I have a couple of areas on our 009 layout (isolations at platform ends, return loop isolations) where I would like the loco to slow down rather than coming to an instant and abrupt halt. I would prefer to add this to the locos rather than the track especially on my shuttle 'ends' as the same track is also used on regular DC control rather than the shuttle module (Block Signalling SSA2) and can be switched between the two. Interestingly one of our locos - a Roco HOe 009 1:87 baureihe BR99 does have this feature but I have not figured how - it is DCC ready but not chipped. Most of the other locos are too small to fit DCC chips.

Any ideas?

David

Thank you very much for this, it will be a great help.

David

Hi John,

Cheeky question, by any chance do you have kits building instructions that you might be able to share with me. I suspect there may be some sequences and painting instructions that I'm unaware of

Thanks

David

14 minutes ago, hayfield said:

It will make testing the chassis much easier and I would look to get an etched tender chassis to make a proper job, or at least fit pin point bearings into it

Pin point bearings are  a good idea, I'll follow that up